Coil springs

[65Buick]

The edge wire is broken at the back and it kind of distorts the shape. I keep trying to fix it but it makes it worse. I could eliminate it or just remove the back but leave the front and sides.

[SteveA]

Were the unions Doc posted a link for to repair the edge wire worth looking at ?
SA

[kodydog]

I have seen plenty of furniture with the edge wire only on the sides and front. Just make sure you stuff out the back with plenty of cotton or dacron to make sure that back edge is smooth and not lumpy and to eliminate any gaps that may appear.

[65Buick]

I had forgotten about stapling the twine. Instead of using nails to wrap the end of the twine, you hold the twine towards you, two staples, then towards the piece, two more staples. Then continue tying.

What is everyone's thought on that method?

[MinUph]

You have to be very careful not to cut the twine with a staple or it will fail. Either right then or right after you deliver the piece. I use the staple gun for this once in a while when I don't think the wood can handle a 4 or a 6 oz tack. Or when I just can't get at the rail but can with a gun. I don't care for the practice actually.

[65Buick]

Question

1. Am I better to run twine over the top of the springs to compress them to right height, and then tie them? I saw a video where a guy did this.
Then continue on and tie the springs to the already run twine.

I considered strap (bar) springs but find that they aren't available in this size.

The photo below shows what the piece looked like underneath. I am using webbing, so I can't really re-use those torsion bars and springs. Am I going to need to reinforce underneath the webbing? I don't know how I would do that.


http://gdurl.com/RcUh

[65Buick]

I have seen plenty of furniture with the edge wire only on the sides and front. Just make sure you stuff out the back with plenty of cotton or dacron to make sure that back edge is smooth and not lumpy and to eliminate any gaps that may appear.

I retained the existing edge wire. It is quite close to the backrest, about 1/2"
The edge wire on the sides is around 1 1/4", including the right at the front where the spring edge meets the front of the armrest.

I was really careful trying to line up the spring edge with the front of the frame, so those two are plumb.

So far I think I've got the springs lined up and compressed close enough that when I continue on and tie the springs I can adjust so everything is nice and even.

Then I hope when I cover the springs in a good strong piece of fabric that it will all be one strong unit.

[MinUph]

Question

1. Am I better to run twine over the top of the springs to compress them to right height, and then tie them? I saw a video where a guy did this.
Then continue on and tie the springs to the already run twine.
If you are explaining tieing a twine up and down to compress the spring then No. Just tie them front to back, side to side and diag. The frame is a good one for just red line webbing. You won't need anything else as long as you put the webbing on tight enough. I always test a webbing job by dropping a tool like a pair of shears or my hammer on it. It should bounce nicely. Keeping the edge wire in the back is a good idea it gives shape to that area so you don't have to fill in with cotton to get rid of the missing areas between the springs. Make sure to use burlap or some other fabric that won't stretch out on top of the springs. Many left over fabrics will stretch and show later on. That is what burlap is for. It is also much easier to stitch through.

I considered strap (bar) springs but find that they aren't available in this size.

The photo below shows what the piece looked like underneath. I am using webbing, so I can't really re-use those torsion bars and springs. Am I going to need to reinforce underneath the webbing? I don't know how I would do that.


http://gdurl.com/RcUh

[65Buick]

The springs at the front and around the edge are taller. So I am not really understanding how I get them compressed to the same level while tieing. That is why earlier I had used strips of fabric to compress the front springs so I am not trying to do that at the same time as tieing them.

This is what it looks like now:

http://gdurl.com/A9i1u

[MinUph]

The front springs should be a little taller. When you get to the front row, drop down probably three rings pull the spring a little towards the back, and tie to that, then to the next lowest ring in the front of the front spring pull this tight so the back of the front spring is pretty close to even with the rest and nail it to the front rail. Bring this tie up to the edge wire and get the height (about 3/4" taller) and tie to the spring and edge wire. Then back to the front of the second row spring and pull it so the front edge is where you want it. Just proud of the front rail. Tie this and then down to the front rail and pull this so the back edge of the spring is just below to front and even with the rest. Then nail it down. This should give you even springs to the back edge of the front row of spring and the front edge just proud (taller by 1/2" - 3/4" of the rest. This gives you a good angle so your cushion won't ride forward. Pu the burlap on and edge roll. Not easy to explain in words. But read it till it makes sense.

[65Buick]

I think I'm getting the hang of it.
If I understand correctly, the twine strengthens the coils as one unit. But, the twine may also be used to position the springs correctly.
So far it's looking good. The spring edge is hanging to far forward. I'm hoping that the twine pulled in different directions will help bring it back.

http://gdurl.com/RHZz

[MinUph]

It looks like the third spring from the left is done correctly. This is the point you pull the row to the height you want the other springs. Then up to the edge wire and back to the front of the spring of the second row back loop it get knot ready and adjust the twine to pull the edge wire where you want it. Just a little in front of the rail. Tie this off and then back to the read of the front spring tied odd, and then down through the front spring to the rail around a tack and adjust to pull the rear of the front coil down. This will give you a lower rear section on the front coil not much but lower than the front of the front coil. All the other main ties are wrong sorry.

And yes the twines are what positions the coils. Nothing else. All coils travel up and down straight, as much as possible. The front row sometimes doesn't because of the rail. It is how you can tell if they are tied correctly as you go. You will see this in time.

[SteveA]

Looking good - when your done if the springs aren't perfect don't worry you can make up flaws with the padding, foam, cotton etc.  No crafts person will have perfect success the initial attempts when tying springs.  If the edge wire is giving you headaches maybe it isn't 100 % necessary. 
SA

[kodydog]

Like Paul said you need to get the back of the front spring pulled down. This will make the tension on the front of the spring tighter and give you a nice tight spring edge. I was taught to use two pieces of spring twin for tying front to back. The first one is to get all those springs the same height and positioned correctly. The back spring all I tie is the front of the spring then tie the tops of middle springs. The front spring all I tie is the back of the spring. Then pull everything tight and nail off. The second piece of string I tie similar to what Paul said.

[65Buick]

I see why people use zig zag springs.