Fabric seaming preference

[65Buick]

I've chosen a geometric for this little slipper chair.
The original uses welt around the seat and back.
Would you leave out the welt? Would you seam the corners and upholster as as single piece of fabric, instead of cutting and sewing?

What is your opinion here? Links below.

http://gdurl.com/G0WN
http://gdurl.com/P1Yk

[MinUph]

Do it the same way. Run the welt on the bias.

[65Buick]

If I use welt on the bias, since the continuous piece would need to be much longer than the width of the fabric, seam it on the side?

If I cut bias lengthwise then I would easily have enough without any seams.

Thanks Paul

[MinUph]

Bias is cut on a 45. If seams are needed put them or it on the side. Seam the pieces together on the 45 also.

[65Buick]

The top of the backrest and the front of the seat both have very slight curves.
I can't tell with the old fabric if they cut a corresponding curve, or if it was from pulling the fabric tight.

Is it best to sew the welt square to the panel, or sew it on with a very slight curve (1/2" total)

They then slip stitched the seat and back sides on before upholstering.

[baileyuph]

Your chair picture is the chair your question relates to correct?

I noticed the back has two buttons and the bottom looks like it did also but came loose.

The material in the seat bottom has to darker spots like the buttons were there for a good while and now are not on.

In reading and looking at your photo of chair, it appears it could be smart to enhance the padding in the bottom and the back  This will make the padding firmer, hopefully.

If you address the padding, and it becomes firmer, also plan to go back with two buttons in backrest and also two buttons in the bottom, then a slight arc would be ok, but I might keep the arc around 1/4 inch and slightly round the corners on both (bottom & back).

If you aren't planning on the button idea, just enhance the padding a bit, and it would be ok not to arc but do the slightly rounded corners. 

Confused?  I understand.

Doyle

[65Buick]

Yes, DB I am referring to the chair above.

I understand what you are saying and I have padded better both back & seat.

I likely will leave out buttons on seat but may use on back.

I think then I will use your advice and go 1/4" arc, which would be barely noticeable and not cause the eye to start looking at the pattern 'x'

[MinUph]

The top of the backrest and the front of the seat both have very slight curves.
I can't tell with the old fabric if they cut a corresponding curve, or if it was from pulling the fabric tight.

Is it best to sew the welt square to the panel, or sew it on with a very slight curve (1/2" total)

They then slip stitched the seat and back sides on before upholstering.

It a little hard to tell how concave the back actually is. But it looks slightly. If it is the undercut the top boxing about 1/2" in the center to give it the curve needed. The IB can stay the same if this is minimal. If it is extreme the ends would need to be undercut. I think it will be fine straight on the face of the IB. The seat if concave in the front needs to be shaped accordingly on the top piece. The boxing is straight.

When you take the old off you should be able to tell by the weve if fabric is cut straight or not. Follow a yarn from one end to the other.

[baileyuph]

OK, you did enhance the padding in backrest and cushion.  Good!

Then, proceeding a slight arc in the backrest face (1/4 inch) could improve that fit (fabric won't look skimpy) but don't arc the boxing.  I am suggesting the slight arc because of the buttons (2) which will follow.  I stay with the idea of a slight arc at the top two corners, this is a very very arc to avoid the 90 degree turn on the welt. 

Also, regarding the bottom cushion face; since there will be no buttons, I wouldn't arc that piece (the face again).  I would never arc the boxing there also. 

Definitely cut cording on bias as you planned and enjoy your results!!  Remember while cutting cording, it pays to be as accurate on this as layout and cutting/sewing the cording is a touch of perfection, even stitch length and the number of seams done in the process.

Good work friend!

Doyle

BTW, the signature "65Buick" has significance -- something you restored or?
I am a car guy as well (professional upholstery wise)  You would probably love to see the
original recreation on a 1965 F100 I just finished.  I should have gathered some pictures, I guess - never was a picture guy.

[65Buick]

Hi Doyle,

I have decided to eliminate buttons completely. No arc then?
I always take care henv doing welt. I misstyped earlier and I always make sure my stitching won't show.

65Buick is reference to my project car fit the last 17 years. Never done but yes restored somewhat.

I really like those old F100s. Maybe you can send a photo through?

[baileyuph]

You have enhanced the padding, no buttons to pull or put down pressure on cording line, just pattern and install with symmetry in the boxing all around.  The little curve or rounded corner is done just enough to relax the cording from a hard 90 degree turn.

Great work!

Doyle

[65Buick]

Folks,

tell me what you see here: http://gdurl.com/RsqA

[MinUph]

It looks as though you didn't shape the top boxing to give it the shape of the back.

[kodydog]

I think I would have centered the pattern different.

[MinUph]

I think I would have centered the pattern different.

Yes definitely not centered.