Fabric seaming preference

[65Buick]

I had forgotten about the staple method. Thank you  reminding me. My welt foot set doesn't have teeth on them, it has to be something to do with that as I was very precise when I pinned together.

[MinUph]

Pinning or stapling is all well and good. But if you start in the center of a section, then at the ends matchup the patterns and holed them real tight in your fingers it will work. Also much has to do with things like thread tension, foot pressure etc. Do a search for foot pressure and see what you find. There is a good test to see how your machine is setup for the fabric you're working with. The setup can change for different fabrics. Cut 2 pieces of fabric exactly the same length start at one end with the ends equal and sew the strip of fabric. I the machine is setup for that fabric the top and bottom fabrics will be even at the end. If not its foot pressure or thread tension.

[baileyuph]

The initial start of sewing boxing at the center works best for me (like Paul described).  Paul also mentioned the machine settings can be dependent on fabrics being sewn, this is true and is something I check out initially for a project. 

Oh, a question:  What is meant by the term factory slip stitching?  I probably know the stitch but by a different term?

Back to sewing boxing on accurately;  sometimes I will do it the way described but may add
registration points (in chalk) to double check how the two layers are migrating through the machine.  This is very important when working with vinyl or leather.  Ripping those seams is not a good thing to do because it also adds needle holes (unlike sewing a woven cloth).

So much to check for in sewing isn't it!

Doyle

[65Buick]

These are all really helpful things guys, thank you.

The boxing was sewn simply together by hand. Basically with a needle, through the layers, across a half inch, back through the layers and so on. The welt was sewn to the boxing with a machine. I guess the factory figured this was fastest.

[65Buick]

One more thing: I have been told that the bobbin thread tension should be so that when you pull a thread out and dangle it, it should be just enough to hold it and not allow it to unwind.

Using a Pfaff 545 , the top tension on these machines is incredible. The adjustment nut is backed just about all the way out and it is still very tight.

Based on the puckers I have, I think I need my tension lowered, and then hopefully it will help stop the fabric from slipping.

[MinUph]

Take your thread tensioner apart and clean between the rings and behind them. Thread dust can get in there and make it tight. It sounds as though you have the bobbin trick figured out. It actually goes like this. Hold the thread and make the bobbin to drop, it should allow a little thread out but not much. Then you can set the top tension properly.

[65Buick]

http://gdurl.com/4VwP
http://gdurl.com/fRHE

Chair going well. Happy with the seat. The boxing for the backrest is giving me trouble. First, I don't know why it is puckering. Second, down at the bottom where it joins with the seat boxing I'm not really sure what to do. It would probably help to pull it down and maybe use a cardboard tack strip where the welt is, but I'm not sure if I can accomplish that.

The geometric has proven challenging. The pattern on the backrest boxing is mostly ok, it could maybe be oriented slightly differently. Getting the boxing on the BR and seat to match I think it extremely difficult and I don't think it actually takes away from the overall effect if they aren't oriented exactly the same way.

[MinUph]

If you loosen the seat boxing from the back rail out to the back boxing welt and run the back welt and boxing down straight, all the way down you will be able to pull all those wrinkles out and then reapply the seat to finish it off over the back boxing. You will have the same look but no puckering.

[baileyuph]

You are doing a Great Job!

To finish, see if you can get the lower back rest boxing (esp. where cord meets seat)
a little tighter in the down direction.

That area (boxing and back rest facing) will have to be pulled evenly on both sides.  The idea is to keep the inside back pattern level where it meets cushion - reasonably level.
Again, this type of focus should be on both sides of backrest.

I would fold the inside back cloth where it meets cord on both sides of backrest while pulling down and keeping things level.  This will help in keeping the cord tighter to the chair.

When this effort accomplishes a reasonably tight level on the corners and across the inside back face panel, making a small fold (mentioned above) on the inside of the cord will help snug the cord to the body of the back rest.

When this effort is looking good, then concentrate on the side boxing of the backrest assembly (this will be on the outside of the cording.  Still clear;  now detach the upper part of the seat boxing (the reason for this is you want to work the backrest boxing down to ultimately be underneath the bottom seat boxing and cord, virtually wrinkle free.  

When the bottom boxing and cord is detached, only part way down is required, continue
working the back rest boxing to the frame of the chair.  A small fold on this side of the backrest boxing very close to its cord is good to do if it helps keep boxing level and tight
to the backrest.  Once this has been accomplished on both sides of chair, reassemble
the boxing on the bottom cushion, of course both sides.

Man!  You are doing a great job!!  Just think you are also almost done!!!

It would be good quality control or just smart to analyze the backrest boxing to insure the pattern is level and looks like it will fold into place when it is fully installed (snug and with eye appeal).  No wrinkles and the geometry of the backrest
assembly is equally placed with respect to the center line.

I believe you got a winner!

Doyle

[65Buick]

I'm re-doing the IB&boxing. If this were a solid, I'd be done. Are there any tricks to getting the pattern straight?
Mainly i sew the boxing together and that's one thing, then getting it straight with the IB is another.
Way harder than I thought.

[65Buick]

http://gdurl.com/2LDG

http://gdurl.com/OCOC

I was having a really bad day yesterday. Overthinking things. I've gotten this far now. A few small adjustments, hopefully. Feedback is appreciated.

[SteveA]

That chair looks so good in that fabric I think the customer will want to do her sectional sofa in the same fabric with a bunch of matching throw cushions :)
SA

[gene]

Very good job!

The biggest issue for me when I got started sewing was how much fabrics vary in stretch. I could sew with one fabric perfectly and the next fabric would be such a pain. Since I learned on my own, it was very difficult at times to figure out what was going on.

Several months ago I went back to stapling fabrics that are thin and/or stretchy. It takes time but saves a lot of time when you sew it perfectly the first time.

gene

[baileyuph]

Great Work!

That kind of work can't be beat!

The fabric looks quality and the idea of color added by pillows is encouraging.  This customer have a sofa for you to do?

You mentioned a Pfaff 545, is that the machine you used?

I have a 545 and a 1245, these are tough machines and I can relate to the tension spring

situation but it is that way on my 1245 not the 545.

Like Paul said, I check to keep the thread path clean on both.

Did you use a 5 or 6 welt foot on this job?  The filler, I assume is close to 5/32 nds.

Yes, this kind of work will get you more!

Congrats!!

Doyle

[65Buick]

Guys, made it this far

http://gdurl.com/AZ900

Refinished the legs with a good enamel, got it all squared up and aligned. It's amazing how just 1/2" one side too far will screw up your whole process.

A bit unsure about what to do with the seamed corners on the seat. How do I get it clean and tight right where the seam meets the underside of the frame? (where you staple)