I've chosen a geometric for this little slipper chair.
The original uses welt around the seat and back.
Would you leave out the welt? Would you seam the corners and upholster as as single piece of fabric, instead of cutting and sewing?
What is your opinion here? Links below.
http://gdurl.com/G0WN
http://gdurl.com/P1Yk
Do it the same way. Run the welt on the bias.
If I use welt on the bias, since the continuous piece would need to be much longer than the width of the fabric, seam it on the side?
If I cut bias lengthwise then I would easily have enough without any seams.
Thanks Paul
Bias is cut on a 45. If seams are needed put them or it on the side. Seam the pieces together on the 45 also.
The top of the backrest and the front of the seat both have very slight curves.
I can't tell with the old fabric if they cut a corresponding curve, or if it was from pulling the fabric tight.
Is it best to sew the welt square to the panel, or sew it on with a very slight curve (1/2" total)
They then slip stitched the seat and back sides on before upholstering.
Your chair picture is the chair your question relates to correct?
I noticed the back has two buttons and the bottom looks like it did also but came loose.
The material in the seat bottom has to darker spots like the buttons were there for a good while and now are not on.
In reading and looking at your photo of chair, it appears it could be smart to enhance the padding in the bottom and the back This will make the padding firmer, hopefully.
If you address the padding, and it becomes firmer, also plan to go back with two buttons in backrest and also two buttons in the bottom, then a slight arc would be ok, but I might keep the arc around 1/4 inch and slightly round the corners on both (bottom & back).
If you aren't planning on the button idea, just enhance the padding a bit, and it would be ok not to arc but do the slightly rounded corners.
Confused? I understand.
Doyle
Yes, DB I am referring to the chair above.
I understand what you are saying and I have padded better both back & seat.
I likely will leave out buttons on seat but may use on back.
I think then I will use your advice and go 1/4" arc, which would be barely noticeable and not cause the eye to start looking at the pattern 'x'
Quote from: 65Buick on April 21, 2017, 03:16:33 pm
The top of the backrest and the front of the seat both have very slight curves.
I can't tell with the old fabric if they cut a corresponding curve, or if it was from pulling the fabric tight.
Is it best to sew the welt square to the panel, or sew it on with a very slight curve (1/2" total)
They then slip stitched the seat and back sides on before upholstering.
It a little hard to tell how concave the back actually is. But it looks slightly. If it is the undercut the top boxing about 1/2" in the center to give it the curve needed. The IB can stay the same if this is minimal. If it is extreme the ends would need to be undercut. I think it will be fine straight on the face of the IB. The seat if concave in the front needs to be shaped accordingly on the top piece. The boxing is straight.
When you take the old off you should be able to tell by the weve if fabric is cut straight or not. Follow a yarn from one end to the other.
OK, you did enhance the padding in backrest and cushion. Good!
Then, proceeding a slight arc in the backrest face (1/4 inch) could improve that fit (fabric won't look skimpy) but don't arc the boxing. I am suggesting the slight arc because of the buttons (2) which will follow. I stay with the idea of a slight arc at the top two corners, this is a very very arc to avoid the 90 degree turn on the welt.
Also, regarding the bottom cushion face; since there will be no buttons, I wouldn't arc that piece (the face again). I would never arc the boxing there also.
Definitely cut cording on bias as you planned and enjoy your results!! Remember while cutting cording, it pays to be as accurate on this as layout and cutting/sewing the cording is a touch of perfection, even stitch length and the number of seams done in the process.
Good work friend!
Doyle
BTW, the signature "65Buick" has significance -- something you restored or?
I am a car guy as well (professional upholstery wise) You would probably love to see the
original recreation on a 1965 F100 I just finished. I should have gathered some pictures, I guess - never was a picture guy.
Hi Doyle,
I have decided to eliminate buttons completely. No arc then?
I always take care henv doing welt. I misstyped earlier and I always make sure my stitching won't show.
65Buick is reference to my project car fit the last 17 years. Never done but yes restored somewhat.
I really like those old F100s. Maybe you can send a photo through?
You have enhanced the padding, no buttons to pull or put down pressure on cording line, just pattern and install with symmetry in the boxing all around. The little curve or rounded corner is done just enough to relax the cording from a hard 90 degree turn.
Great work!
Doyle
Folks,
tell me what you see here: http://gdurl.com/RsqA
It looks as though you didn't shape the top boxing to give it the shape of the back.
I think I would have centered the pattern different.
Quote from: kodydog on April 26, 2017, 09:03:10 am
I think I would have centered the pattern different.
Yes definitely not centered.
Just checking other eyes. I messed up the centering.
Its easy to do with that pattern. Back to the drawing board.
Yes, feeling extremely stupid about it.
I make mistakes daily. Its not so bad unless the boss catches you.
The original upholsterers machine stitched the welt to the boxing, then slip-stitched the panel (seat or IB) it all together.
I was preferring to machine stitch everything for durability. But since I am going to have to re-do part of this I wondered if I would be better doing it the way it was originally done.
I looked at the photo and didn't see the pattern issue until Kody pointed it out. It's not that badly off but that pattern is kind of hypnotizing.
Anyway it helps me to fold the plates in half - cut the notch in the top and bottom of the fabric, find the center of the frame. I pin the welting onto the plates before sewing.
SA
Quote from: 65Buick on April 27, 2017, 09:38:26 am
then slip-stitched the panel (seat or IB) it all together.
I'm not sure what you mean but if you want it to look neat and be strong I would machine stitch the whole thing. We always sew the welt to the panel first then sew the boxing on.
The pattern at first confused me - I thought it was random. Then I stepped back to look at my job and - oh.
We all hate to re-do things but my thought is even if you get away with someone not noticing the backrest, you then have to off-set the seat or make it not centered too.
I decided to cut my losses and start fresh. Normally I would do the seat first, in which case I could have salvaged the fabric for the IB or OB. but I thought because the way the ends of the boxing were I had better do the IB first.
And Steve I too sew my welt to the plate , then the boxing so Eden I discovered the slip stitch I thought that was odd. But I guess things happen differently in factories when many of the same thing are being made.
Oh well, you live you learn.
Did the seat plate nicely. Sewed the boxing and piping nicely, no stitches showing.
Then I realized http://gdurl.com/V1m3
Face Palm. Sigh.
I know a lot of shops that would let that go. Rose would have me fix it.
Every time you cut fabric off the roll it helps to put arrows on the back in a direction
SA
Steve: that is a good idea.
Here, everything was good, and I had centered the boxing with the seat plate. This has happened many times in this project; somehow even with pinning it slips ever so slightly, and before you know it, they are way off.
I could let it go, my wife said to, but I won't. It's not good enough for me, and it's not good enough for what I want to be known for.
I see your much closer on the left side of the boxing si I gather you started sewing on that end. A trick to keep everything lined up is to start from center and sew out from there both directions. It allows half the stretch over the full length of the boxing.
Quote from: 65Buick on May 05, 2017, 01:22:01 pm
I could let it go, my wife said to, but I won't. It's not good enough for me, and it's not good enough for what I want to be known for.
That's a good attitude to have. If you get a good reputation you will never have a lack of work.
On a curved front like that the only place it will match is the center. It'll go off as you sew toward the ends.
Quoteeven with pinning it slips ever so slightly, and before you know it, they are way off.
I prefer to use staples because I find they don't slip as much as pins can.
I had forgotten about the staple method. Thank you reminding me. My welt foot set doesn't have teeth on them, it has to be something to do with that as I was very precise when I pinned together.
Pinning or stapling is all well and good. But if you start in the center of a section, then at the ends matchup the patterns and holed them real tight in your fingers it will work. Also much has to do with things like thread tension, foot pressure etc. Do a search for foot pressure and see what you find. There is a good test to see how your machine is setup for the fabric you're working with. The setup can change for different fabrics. Cut 2 pieces of fabric exactly the same length start at one end with the ends equal and sew the strip of fabric. I the machine is setup for that fabric the top and bottom fabrics will be even at the end. If not its foot pressure or thread tension.
The initial start of sewing boxing at the center works best for me (like Paul described). Paul also mentioned the machine settings can be dependent on fabrics being sewn, this is true and is something I check out initially for a project.
Oh, a question: What is meant by the term factory slip stitching? I probably know the stitch but by a different term?
Back to sewing boxing on accurately; sometimes I will do it the way described but may add
registration points (in chalk) to double check how the two layers are migrating through the machine. This is very important when working with vinyl or leather. Ripping those seams is not a good thing to do because it also adds needle holes (unlike sewing a woven cloth).
So much to check for in sewing isn't it!
Doyle
These are all really helpful things guys, thank you.
The boxing was sewn simply together by hand. Basically with a needle, through the layers, across a half inch, back through the layers and so on. The welt was sewn to the boxing with a machine. I guess the factory figured this was fastest.
One more thing: I have been told that the bobbin thread tension should be so that when you pull a thread out and dangle it, it should be just enough to hold it and not allow it to unwind.
Using a Pfaff 545 , the top tension on these machines is incredible. The adjustment nut is backed just about all the way out and it is still very tight.
Based on the puckers I have, I think I need my tension lowered, and then hopefully it will help stop the fabric from slipping.
Take your thread tensioner apart and clean between the rings and behind them. Thread dust can get in there and make it tight. It sounds as though you have the bobbin trick figured out. It actually goes like this. Hold the thread and make the bobbin to drop, it should allow a little thread out but not much. Then you can set the top tension properly.
http://gdurl.com/4VwP
http://gdurl.com/fRHE
Chair going well. Happy with the seat. The boxing for the backrest is giving me trouble. First, I don't know why it is puckering. Second, down at the bottom where it joins with the seat boxing I'm not really sure what to do. It would probably help to pull it down and maybe use a cardboard tack strip where the welt is, but I'm not sure if I can accomplish that.
The geometric has proven challenging. The pattern on the backrest boxing is mostly ok, it could maybe be oriented slightly differently. Getting the boxing on the BR and seat to match I think it extremely difficult and I don't think it actually takes away from the overall effect if they aren't oriented exactly the same way.
If you loosen the seat boxing from the back rail out to the back boxing welt and run the back welt and boxing down straight, all the way down you will be able to pull all those wrinkles out and then reapply the seat to finish it off over the back boxing. You will have the same look but no puckering.
You are doing a Great Job!
To finish, see if you can get the lower back rest boxing (esp. where cord meets seat)
a little tighter in the down direction.
That area (boxing and back rest facing) will have to be pulled evenly on both sides. The idea is to keep the inside back pattern level where it meets cushion - reasonably level.
Again, this type of focus should be on both sides of backrest.
I would fold the inside back cloth where it meets cord on both sides of backrest while pulling down and keeping things level. This will help in keeping the cord tighter to the chair.
When this effort accomplishes a reasonably tight level on the corners and across the inside back face panel, making a small fold (mentioned above) on the inside of the cord will help snug the cord to the body of the back rest.
When this effort is looking good, then concentrate on the side boxing of the backrest assembly (this will be on the outside of the cording. Still clear; now detach the upper part of the seat boxing (the reason for this is you want to work the backrest boxing down to ultimately be underneath the bottom seat boxing and cord, virtually wrinkle free.
When the bottom boxing and cord is detached, only part way down is required, continue
working the back rest boxing to the frame of the chair. A small fold on this side of the backrest boxing very close to its cord is good to do if it helps keep boxing level and tight
to the backrest. Once this has been accomplished on both sides of chair, reassemble
the boxing on the bottom cushion, of course both sides.
Man! You are doing a great job!! Just think you are also almost done!!!
It would be good quality control or just smart to analyze the backrest boxing to insure the pattern is level and looks like it will fold into place when it is fully installed (snug and with eye appeal). No wrinkles and the geometry of the backrest
assembly is equally placed with respect to the center line.
I believe you got a winner!
Doyle
I'm re-doing the IB&boxing. If this were a solid, I'd be done. Are there any tricks to getting the pattern straight?
Mainly i sew the boxing together and that's one thing, then getting it straight with the IB is another.
Way harder than I thought.
http://gdurl.com/2LDG
http://gdurl.com/OCOC
I was having a really bad day yesterday. Overthinking things. I've gotten this far now. A few small adjustments, hopefully. Feedback is appreciated.
That chair looks so good in that fabric I think the customer will want to do her sectional sofa in the same fabric with a bunch of matching throw cushions :)
SA
Very good job!
The biggest issue for me when I got started sewing was how much fabrics vary in stretch. I could sew with one fabric perfectly and the next fabric would be such a pain. Since I learned on my own, it was very difficult at times to figure out what was going on.
Several months ago I went back to stapling fabrics that are thin and/or stretchy. It takes time but saves a lot of time when you sew it perfectly the first time.
gene
Great Work!
That kind of work can't be beat!
The fabric looks quality and the idea of color added by pillows is encouraging. This customer have a sofa for you to do?
You mentioned a Pfaff 545, is that the machine you used?
I have a 545 and a 1245, these are tough machines and I can relate to the tension spring
situation but it is that way on my 1245 not the 545.
Like Paul said, I check to keep the thread path clean on both.
Did you use a 5 or 6 welt foot on this job? The filler, I assume is close to 5/32 nds.
Yes, this kind of work will get you more!
Congrats!!
Doyle
Guys, made it this far
http://gdurl.com/AZ900
Refinished the legs with a good enamel, got it all squared up and aligned. It's amazing how just 1/2" one side too far will screw up your whole process.
A bit unsure about what to do with the seamed corners on the seat. How do I get it clean and tight right where the seam meets the underside of the frame? (where you staple)
65 The chair looks good. You can hide some of the extra at the front corners with a base welt. But what I am seeing is the side boxing tapered down to the front. I other words it should have been straight all the way back making the top welt parallel to the bottom frame. This would be proper and would have taken out the little extra fabric in the front corner. You will get away with it though. Remember this. Seating should always make a person lean back naturally never forward. So it anything the front of a seat would be higher than the back of the seat.
Hey guys. I finished this chair:
http://gdurl.com/XzL0
Nice job Mr. 65.
That is a great job. Matching the horizontal x's on the sides of the back to the back in and back out panels is a very nice detail. It's amazing how often new furniture doesn't even make the effort to do that.
gene
You're going places 65. Very nice.
As you all know well, it's no fun having to re-do things. but I keep telling myself, no, I will do it until it is right.
I used those tack strips on the OB, and getting the prongs poked through the fabric was a challenge because of the weave. Had to be really careful not to snag a thread otherwise the whole pattern distorts.
Thanks for all the help everyone. Sometimes you need an extra set or two of eyeballs.
Now, onwards and forwards!
BTW, my name is Ian, I couldn't see where to update that.
Cant really change your name but you could put it in your signature. It is under profile above.
Too late to change your name. You'll always be known as 65. :)
All you can do is quit the group, and re-register with a new profile name.
I'll stick with '65. My real name is Ian. Not like there are so many people here that it's confusing.
But, call me what you like.