Business Growing ......But.....

[baileyuph]

Hey guys,

I am doing frame repairs on new furniture, work is increasing and I need to pick up speed.


Here is the issue:  On new furniture construction often seen is staples (for example inch long) on a corner block that needs to be removed or cut (need to get the corner block off).  I prefer to salvage the corner block so what would you use to get it loose?

Prying with a large flat screw driver works but, like stated need to do something quicker.

Ideally, if there was some magical way of cutting the staple, that would be fast, but what would get between the wood to cut the staple?

Brain storm time, let me hear your ideas.  There are no bad ideas, somewhere any idea applies. 

Doyle

[byhammerandhand]

 





If you just want to cut the staples, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MX25EC-21-2-5-Amp-Multi-X-Oscillating/dp/B004HKCGQK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381372016&sr=1-1&keywords=oscillating+tool+bosch

Problem with most staples is the metal is so soft, you have to be really careful about what you use to pull them with.

Making a bunch of corner blocks might save you a lot of time.

[sofadoc]

Making a bunch of corner blocks might save you a lot of time.

That's what I do. I don't even try to save the old ones. I wreck and replace.

[Mike]

sounds like they don't   use glue  theres a plus is there access for a oscillating cutter like hammer shows

[Mr Greedy]

Pry them out with a screwdriver or hit out with a hammer. Once out then just back and forth with pliers or side cutters on the staples till they brake off. The reinstall with glue and screws.

MR Greedy. AKA onebonehead.

PS been a long time since I have been on this board so I guess my old name was deleted.  So I am MR Greedy from here on out.

[gene]

I usually start by trying to pry the corner blocks off with a pair of channel locks. I grab hold of the corner block and pry down or up on it. In addition to using soft/cheap nails or staples, they also tend to use very little glue. I then pull the nails out of the corner block.

Get the biggest channel locks you have for the most leverage.

https://www.google.com/search?q=channel+locks&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=DrxWUoCfE_Wo4AO-94CgBQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=636&dpr=1#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=kYHSGoBHkT9T4M%3A%3BvWDR9Gz0sPyxnM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fzo-d.com%252Fstuff%252Fimages%252Fchannel-lock-pliers-s.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fzo-d.com%252Fstuff%252Ftool-reviews%252Fchannel-lock-pliers-vs-ridgid-offset-hex-wrench.html%3B480%3B199


gene

PS: Always happy to hear when someone's business is growing.

[Lo]

There is always one of these type of cutting tools ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaq5yZMzADQ

I understand there is a less expensive version out on the market ... I can only attest to this tools use and borrow my sisters whenever I need.  ;D

[MinUph]

Usually a good whack straight down with a hammer will knock off or loosen a corner block. If it breaks then cut a new one.

[sofadoc]

MR Greedy. AKA onebonehead.
PS been a long time since I have been on this board so I guess my old name was deleted.

Did you use caps? You're still listed:
http://www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/index.php?action=profile;u=4629

[baileyuph]

Well, maybe it isn't a one night stand, wood repairs on newer furniture continue to come in.  Thanks for the comments and tool pictures, and ideas, they are being adopted with benefit.  That help plus experience is bringing the time down, for example I did a frame repair today on a recliner in about two and one half hours ($125).  Not bad and I am getting faster.  Seems that most shops must snub the idea or are not able to do them, so word is getting around.  The thinking  is, the next one will come in just under two hours.  Soon it should be a direction for profits.

Doyle

[byhammerandhand]

If you are getting into frame repair,  you should get a pocket screw jig.   Makes a reasonably strong joint or reinforces a failing joint without a lot of disassembly.  This is my favorite because you can use a screw to clamp it down to work and you don't need clearance to get a clamp  on it.



http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382753595&sr=8-1&keywords=r3+kreg+jig

Add another $10 for a box each of 1.25" and 1.5" screws.   Don't use flat head screws or they split the wood.

[baileyuph]

So, it facilitates making a pocket for the screw, then you run a pilot hole through the pocket to accommodate the screw?

Doyle

[byhammerandhand]

Nope. The drill bit is stepped and when set for the thickness of the wood the pilot hole for the shank of the screw goes almost to the end of the board and is centered in the thickness.  The screws they sell have an auger point so don't need a pilot hole in the matching piece.


You want to always do the drilling parallel to the grain, not cross-grain that would make a much weaker joint






If you look at the Amazon.com link above, the last picture is a video advertisement for its use.

[gene]

DB - I bought the single hole Kreg MJK mini a few years ago after Mr. byhammer told me about it. I love it. It is amazing how easy it makes it.

I bought the single because I don't use it that often.

You can read the directions online and see how to line it up for different thicknesses of wood.

gene

[Mojo]

I use this jig for drawers, etc. Very strong joint and easy to put together.

I bought a different type that is made of aircraft aluminum and has a lever lock on it. It was one of my smartest purchases as I love the pocket screw setup.

Chris