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Bimini (crappy corners)

Started by RandyOnR3, January 09, 2012, 07:56:33 am

Previous topic - Next topic

JuneC

Quote from: Peppy on January 10, 2012, 06:15:20 pm

We stop the flaps at the bend marks. Before the curve. Then tabs are used on the curve approx 2" apart. I don't have good pictures.

I'm sure you could make a push stick to do the corners but it would take some figuring. I have run a flap to the edge a few times but haven't a science for it yet, just eyeballed it with my push stick guessing.


You mean pockets?  You don't stop the rain flaps short, do you?  Now we're getting to the bottom or our miscommunication.  It's those bends that cause fits.  That's what I was talking about here when I mentioned your method of using flaps with snaps ... you call them tabs.

Quote from: JuneC on January 09, 2012, 06:28:57 pm
Actually, Peppy's and Richard's (?) method of not pocketing the ends, but instead putting a short flap with snaps at the ends, would end the guesstimation altogether.


Your method of handling corners gives you, like you say, a lot of latitude in getting a good fit when you install.  I've never done one like that - I always run the pocket over to the edge of the top on the leading/trailing edge, and inside bits where it attached to the top about 2" from the edge.  Sewing the zippered pocket around that bend potentially introduces a lot of puckering/pulling/nastiness.  The tighter the bend, the more difficult it is. 

June
"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields

R.A.F. CaNvAs


Oh so that's how ya supposed to do them...
       I knew I should have gone to MCTI and got a proper schooling since
     they never mentioned bars at dressmaking class. 
         Just  wondering why mine turn out excrement 'every time'...
     I must just needed beating with ya "peppy stick"
               ::)
   

JuneC

RAF, that's a really nice fitting top!  What's your method of running the pockets right to the ends and consistently getting a good fit around the corners? 

June
"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields

RandyOnR3

   I've read the "Pushing the zipper" info more times than I can count and sorry but I'm lost with the guage and how it works..
   Is there any chance you could record it and put it on a disk.. I'll be the first in line to purchase a copy...

CreativeCanvas

January 11, 2012, 02:48:10 pm #19 Last Edit: January 11, 2012, 03:05:49 pm by CreativeCanvas
As you round the radius move your line closer toward the middle of the top.

Here's a better pic of the aqua one I just did on a purty beat up frame:

http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/ad24/71V153/?action=view&current=AquaBimini.jpg

edit: Next time I mark one out I'll take some pics.

fragged8

January 11, 2012, 02:54:00 pm #20 Last Edit: January 11, 2012, 03:07:38 pm by fragged8
i'm getting real confused ??

if i pattern with a blanket i will mark my aft seam at 90deg to the
top of the frame and roll it around the bend so the seam ends up
right behind the frame.

Then I do some funky marking Northcoast call 'roll out' which takes out the pocket slack
at the ends.
Some pockets you can slide a finger up the frame and get it between the frame
and canvas, but it using 'Roll out' you can't, the pocket is snug to the frame.

If patterning with plastic I mark the frame at about 11 o'clock or the intersection point.

Mike

I dhould have noted that my diagram was a side  cut  across of a frame the dots are as if the framre was cut in half. when i first started making top i got trouble at the corners and mostly all were aluminum frames so to eli,minate the wrinkles i plaved a snap stud in the tube and the end of the pocket then i pulled the canbas around the tube to look nice and placed a snap in the pocket kinda like riches sculpted pocket where the zipper doese not round the dorner but snap are used there instead. I redid a top a whle back and the whole stainledd frame had snaps on it and no zipper at all just a flap with snaps to the tube

Peppy

Quote from: Mike on January 11, 2012, 08:02:21 pm
I dhould have noted that my diagram was a side  cut  across of a frame the dots are as if the framre was cut in half. when i first started making top i got trouble at the corners and mostly all were aluminum frames so to eli,minate the wrinkles i plaved a snap stud in the tube and the end of the pocket then i pulled the canbas around the tube to look nice and placed a snap in the pocket kinda like riches sculpted pocket where the zipper doese not round the dorner but snap are used there instead. I redid a top a whle back and the whole stainledd frame had snaps on it and no zipper at all just a flap with snaps to the tube


All the convertible tops we do are snapped to the bar. If it's a bimini top or stainless it has zipper pockets.

I'll maybe try to do a video this weekend. It's really simple but hard for me to explain on here, especially since by the time I get time to post I'm half in the bag ;)

How's this for a deal- If anybody wants a push stick I'll mail you one if you send me your corporate shwag. I have a Snuggtopz mug and penlight and a ProStitch Auto Tshirt,and I'd like to add to the collection. It's not going to revolutionize anything and may be good for nothing, but it's helped my tops fit better I think and I'd like to see if it would help others. PM me if you want to do an exchange.

Quote from: RandyOnR3 on January 11, 2012, 11:38:53 am
  I'll be the first in line to purchase a copy...


Then I better put this on it-;)
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Mike

well
I just sewed up a 9' long bimini this afternoon for a old chris craft after i make a rear sun shade for it, i have to install so where see how it goes. i like to ease the corners and not so much in the center . I used my Push Eye  :o

Peppy

Quote from: Mike on January 12, 2012, 03:07:11 pm
well
I just sewed up a 9' long bimini this afternoon for a old chris craft after i make a rear sun shade for it, i have to install so where see how it goes. i like to ease the corners and not so much in the center . I used my Push Eye  :o


The Laser Eye has no equal.

I guess the added benefit of the Push Stick would be you get to blame me if it doesn't fit. 
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regalman190

As I indicated earlier...I only ease or roll the ends of the pockets about 3" before the end of the pockets on bimini tops only. On an enclosure top, I don't. The windows take care of the corner pulls.
I mark my seams like Mike. I mark them at the intersection of the top and the window panels. At the middle of the bow the seam is at the intersection of the top and front window. But it has to transition to the middle of the frame as it comes around the corner. This is where the front and side panels meet the top.
Just like the mid bows. The seam is at the top of the frame in the middle where the two pieces of the top fabric intersect. But at the curves it has to transition to the side.
Regal Canvas

Peppy

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Mike

peppy looing at yopur 1st vid with the frame tapein position. asuming the tape matches the plane of the canvas top and the aft curtian id mark my seam line about were you gage show  what you called 1/2" 
when you say 1/2" dose that meen if you had the pocket laying flat on the canvas top moving the sean location back a 1/2" ?


regal having done mant tops like this searay where there is a short top  3' in the rear of the arch and less in the front of the arch , with a 1" ss tube i found that the canVAS DOSENT HAVE MUCH GIVE AND THE FRAME WONT FLEX LIKE A LARGER TOP WHERE YOU COULD ONLY ease the corners of the pocket and the center of the top frame witrh give to i ease the entire pocket
at first if i dodnt ease them they were so darn tight good thing sea ray had a adjustabe frane with the intter tubing and the push button position lock, i had to raise the frame zip the canvas on then hang on the frame to pull it down and click the button into its locked position

Peppy

That's where I marked it too Mike. But if it was a drop curtain I'd mark it at zero, if it went to a camper back I'd mark it at 3/4".

Quote from: Mike on January 14, 2012, 05:44:44 pm
dose that meen if you had the pocket laying flat on the canvas top moving the sean location back a 1/2" ?


Exactly.

What my problem that led me to making the gauge was, was that I was marking my patterns at 1/2" but doing nothing to the pockets. They laid flat. This brought the line from where I marked it around to "zero push". This tightened the top along the pocket 1/2" leaving big dimples where the pocket ended (my pockets end at the bend marks) and the line returned to where I'd marked it on the pattern. I figured my 'crappy corners' and Randy's were probably related even though we use different methods, we all wrap around the bar.
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O' for the love of Allah,
   Where the hell did I leave the puppy stick ?
   Perhaps I could take this one back to the 'shop , set it up on the floor
   and make a quick half pattern !
    With ropes and cables everywhere and the boom to hit my head on ,
          There's never enough room to work on these little blow-boats.   ::)