Messages

Thank you for the info. I really appreciate it. I'm putting an estimate together and want to make sure I don't charge too much and also not to charge too little.

Buying 100 pounds would be more expensive than the seat foam, I think. :-)

SofaD, where do you get your poly fill? US Foam sells 5# and 15# bags. I like those black bags. They have a menacing kind of look to them.

Sunshine Foam sells 10# bags that are a few cents cheaper.

Thanks again,

Gene

I have 8 sofa back cushions that I need to stuff with new poly batting.

I can buy 5#, 10#, and 15# bags of loose poly fill.

Each back cushion is 26" x 16" x 7". How many pounds of poly fill would I need for each cushion?

I've looked online and can't find anything definitive.

Thank you,

Gene

Years ago I had a friend who worked at Krogers, the big grocery store. They had a policy that you could return anything if you complained that it was bad and get a replacement. They had people returning half cartons of milk, half eaten pot roasts, etc. When they computerized all their operating processes, they required an ID to be able to return any food items. They found out that the same small group of people were returning 98% of all items. That's when they changed their return policy.

gene

Velcro is a trade name. Hook and loop is what it is and what other brands are called in general. One part is tiny hooks and the other part is tiny loops. The loops are the softer part.

You can tell which is hook and which is loop by looking at them closely, or just by feeling them. The loop is softer and the hook feels more abrasive.

Yes, hook strips can stick to many fabrics. The fabric will have a nap on it that functions the same as a loop, or may be actual loops. If the fabric on the sofa feels soft it is loop and if the strip sewn on the cushion is more ruff then that is the hook.

Many fabrics stick to the hook strip unintentionally because of their nap. The fabric on the back of the sofa was made to stick to hook strips and is made to be more durable for that purpose.

Here's how to open velcro (hook and loop) so no one can hear it. I'm sure Chris (Mojo), a former Marine, is aware of this technique.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSK3maq8Cyk


gene

I find it amazing that the lady in the video has no breathing protection. I honestly don't think I have ever seen a business produced video where a spray devise is being used that did not have the people wearing some type of breathing protection.

gene

I would doubt the rattan banding would come off without breaking in pieces. One idea is to pry open the break as far as possible without breaking any more of the bamboo. Buy that two part epoxy putty that has a very high tensile strength. Mix the two parts of the putty together and work the sausage link into both ends of the bamboo, basically creating a metal rod inside the bamboo. I would staighten the bamboo and let the putty cure. Then I would finish the break with an epoxy cement like Steve mentioned. Paint. Sit. Relax.

I only use an arrow when the customer tells me how they want the fabric heads up, usually when the fabric is still on the bolt. I put an arrow in the selvage edge to show the heads up direction of the fabric.

With cut pieces of fabric, I put a mark at the bottom center of the piece of fabric. It's a little squiggly line that will easily be inside the selvage edge so I don't have to worry about it if that edge is going to be sewn. I saw an upholsterer do this on a youtube video many years ago. He put a squiggly line on the bottom back side with chalk. I usually don't use chalk so I got into the habit of putting my magic marker squiggly line on the bottom of the front/face side of the fabric. I do it automatically as a part of cutting the fabric.
gene

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9P9hSoZuQ4

I give this to customers who want to know about upholstery fabric.

And here's a doc I pulled of the internet that I keep on my bulletin board at work:

Burn Test Chart
Fabric Identification - The Burn Test


Precautions
Use caution during burn test. Use a metal bucket, an old tuna tin or a glass ashtray. Do not use plastic containers. Always have water nearby or have some in the bottom of your burn dish.

The Method
Cut a 1" long triangular shaped snippet off from your fabric. Hold snippet in a pair of tweezers over the dish. With either a match or cigarette lighter, the snippet should be put directly into the flame long enough for it to catch on fire.

Fibers can also be identified through the smell of the smoke it gives off in burning, and the ash or melted bead that remains after it has burned. Some of the fabrics are blends, and the blend of fibers may make the burn test a rather unreliable test for fiber content. Moreover, some fabrics have chemical finishes and sizings applied to them that will change the way they burn, making the burn test further unreliable.

Reaction of Fibers to the Burn Test
Cotton
Is a cellulose fiber. It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it continues to glow. It gives out a smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is fine and soft and can be easily crumbled.

Hemp
A cellulose fiber, burns quickly with bright flame. It leaves no melted bead and after burning no sign of flame is seen. It smells like burning leaves or wood. The ash is gray and smoke has no fume hazard.

Jute
Also a cellulose fiber, doesn't shrink from flame. Other characteristics are similar to those of hemp fabric.

Linen (Flax)
A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are similar to hemp and jute.

Rayon
Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up.
Unless there is a fabric finish, it doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous.

Silk
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves a dark bead which can be easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves ash that is a dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like burned hair or charred meat. It gives out little or no smoke and the fume has no hazard.

Wool
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto fingernail. It leaves beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves harsh ash from crushed bead. It gives out a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark smoke and moderate fume.

Acetate, Triacetate
Is a protein fiber which burns quickly and can flare even after flame is removed. The bead is hard, brittle, and can't be crushed. It melts into a very hot bead and drips very dangerously. No ash is left by it and the smell is like hot vinegar or burning pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is hazardous.

Nylon, Polymide
Are made from petroleum. Due to their fabric finish, they quickly burn and shrink to flame. The beads are hard, grayish and uncrushable. After flame, they burn slowly and melt. They are self-extinguishing but drip dangerously. Their odor is like celery and they leave no ash but the fume is very hazardous.

Polyester
Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame, may also flare up. It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and is not always self-extinguishing. It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are hazardous.

Acrylic, Modacrylic, Polyacrylic
Made from natural gas and petroleum, they flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn rapidly with hot sputtering flame and drip dangerously. Beads are hard, dark, and with irregular shapes. They continue melting after flame is removed and are self-extinguishing. When burning, they give out a strong acrid, fishy odor. Although no ash is left, their black smoke and fume are hazardous.

A friend has an old tete a tete loveseat. I had never heard of this before she mentioned she had it. She wants to give it to me. My thought would be to put all new foam, cotton, etc., cover in musin, then give a price that would include the loveseat and my labor to reupholster. The customer would provide the fabric.

The only value I see is that it is unique. Unique also can be a negative. Anyone have any experience with this type of loveseat? Any issues with reupholstering? Any thoughts on my idea to sell it?

The sides slide around to the back.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tete+a+tete+loveseat&rlz=1C2AWFC_enUS783US785&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=us1ada4PzEqD_M%253A%252CaGVI-An_evRSlM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kS7vKxFRJGJOpyTmgsC0S9iVpLGgw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjk1bOwnNjgAhUhm-AKHQxEC4wQ9QEwAXoECAUQFQ&biw=1164&bih=560#imgrc=eJnT-ud6RQUIHM:

Thanks,

Gene

Just imagine what it was like for people when electricity and indoor plumbing became a part of the household. Well, I'm sure some on this forum can remember what it was like. :-)

Gene

Is the cushion made to be reversible? Is there a crown on both sides? If yes, make sure the crown is not too high so the cushion will sit on the deck fairly flat without gaps under the sides of the cushion.

This can be a problem on flat decks without a front edge.

gene

I got the chair in. The break was not at the glue joint as I thought. It broke about 2" above the glue joint similar to the break in this picture. Photobucket is a pain so I got the picture off the internet.

The break on my chair is toward the top so it's a pain to clamp. I'll use glue and try to clamp with a strap. Any better suggestions for clamping?

I should be able to touch up the break with lacquer toner.

gene

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1AWFC_enUS783US783&biw=1164&bih=560&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=lYBpXPDTBMPq_Ab366joDw&q=broken+wooden+chair&oq=broken+wooden+chair&gs_l=img.3..0.28467.29942..30290...0.0..1.118.764.10j1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0i30.vCwy7O76kvk#imgrc=h0iakhsH4dPmDM:

I listened to an interview recently of a guy who sold his company at age 34 for millions of dollars and bought an 89 foot yacht and sailed it around the Caribbean for several years. He said he died from boredom. All the people who were his age who he found interesting were working. The scum bags, drug addicts, hangers' on, all the low life throughout the Caribbean all wanted to be friends with the guy who owns the big boat. He said almost all his conversations were with waiters and bar tenders because he usually ate on shore. He was retired for only a few years before he went back to work.

I decided to not grow my company with employees several years ago. It was a very sad time for me. And a big economic decision regarding my retirement. But it was the best decision for me to make. If I were 30 years younger it would be a very different story.

Retirement for me will be working at things I enjoy with no deadlines. I can't imagine me not doing something, even if it's volunteer work.

gene

Thanks for your comments. Not sanding the wood makes sense and using brad nails is something I had not thought about. They obviously lift up the chair by the top rail.

Gene

The metal S or snake wire has me wondering if it is not more the middle of the 1900's than the beginning. If you are wanting authentic restoration then go with what they did originally on the settee. Also, is it possible that the settee has been reupholstered at least once and this upholsterer used 4 way because it was cheaper and quicker?

If you have a good upholsterer there may be reasons why he would want to replace the S wires with jute webbing. If you are not looking for authentic restoration I would find this OK.

If you are going to use the settee as a daily piece of furniture that gets a lot of use I would suggest 8 way. Are people and kids going to be flopping down on the settee on a regular basis? And as MinUph said that is our USA bias but it does hold the spring section together more as a single unit. If it's an occasional piece and you are trying to save money, and you have an upholsterer who doesn't mind doing 4 way, then I don't see any reason not to go this route.

I've been on this forum for about 13 years and have contributed some and have learned a lot. And this is the first time I heard that it's a trades only group. Newbies and amateurs are asking questions all the time. At first I thought MinUph was joking or knew you from some place else.

Maybe things have changed and I missed it. Anyway, I hope this forum was helpful to you.

gene