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So I've signed on for a bimini and full enclosure on a 43 Fairline Targa against my better judgement.  Did I mention I hate canvas?

Anyhow, I was wondering what the OEM canvas scheme might have used for fastening the front windscreen panels.  On the side windows they used track along the top of the windshield frame.  That ends right as the frame turns towards the front.  The front panels apparently were fastened somehow to the little knobs used for Stayput shock cord fasteners, under the front edge of the frame.  I've never seen OEM canvas for Fairlines - this is reproduction.  The prior canvas maker used large grommets on the panels to hook under the frame.  It can't have made for nice fitting windows with one knob every 15 inches or so.  I just don't get it.  Tracks along the sides so you can get a nice even pull on the side curtains, but sporadic knobs along the front where an even fit is critical (IMHO).

Anyway, does anyone know what Fairline used to hook to those knobs?  On other British canvas like Sunseekers, they simply punched a keyhole shaped hole in the canvas using some reinforced tarp-like material on that part of the canvas and pulled the canvas over the knobs.  Strikes me as a point of failure with no metal around the hole. 

Has anyone used the E-Z Lace Supreme yet?  It might work, but the whole idea of fabric pulled around a knob bugs me. 

June

The narrow strip up the arm is just a bit too long.  For dry-fitting, it should trampoline off the seat on the inside curve.  Then when stapling with a little heat, it'll go on smoothly.  That's for future reference though.  I think like Doyle said, it can be installed. 

How short to you have the seam selvedges under that?  They'd need to be less than 1/4" - somewhere around 1/8-3/16.  When you're stapling it on, work the cover so that the inner arm doesn't quite reach the foam.  It should be around 3/4" off.  Staple that bit last with heat.  Also, did you use sew foam?  That could be giving you these wrinkles.

June

Kool old boat! 

That light mast doesn't come off easily?  If not, I guess you can make a tube for it (in your cover material) that slips down over. 

Like Mike said, get the 6 mil paint tarp at Home Depot and using tape/stapler/whatever, basically make your cover out of plastic.  Take it off, cut it up, and use that to template your canvas, adding 1/2" seam allowances on all sides.  Mark it before you separate the pieces so you know what goes where.  I always liked to draw lines across the seams and label them with letters - e.g., A----A, B-----B, etc.  It keeps you from getting lost when you're reassembling.  Several companies make canvas with fleece backing that negates the need for adding a separate soft layer. 

BTW, nice job on the seats. 

June

Some of those pieces may have been cut on a bias which really makes a mess as well.  Who knows....

The knit sew foam backing can seriously inhibit your ability to get a good fit.  It's manufactured with all manner of knit and from one vendor to the next, it changes constantly, it seems.  I've only found one vendor who consistently has the same backing - and it's not my favorite, but I've learned to work with it so always order it.

The backing rarely, if ever, has the same stretch properties as the vinyl.  And you have to be careful when patterning, to get the "give" in the same direction as the vinyl's maximum stretch.  I never glue it to the vinyl as I feel like it doesn't give the same smoothness to the finish.  Lots of folks do, and with a vinyl with a heavier face, you might not be able to tell.  I cut the foam and stitch to the edges of the vinyl pieces in the margin before assembly.  It's time consuming, but works really well.  Most pieces are sewn with the backing away from the vinyl (foam facing up).  But on inside corners, the lack of stretch of the sew foam backing will fight you and cause the vinyl to wrinkle so the knit backing has to be against the vinyl with the foam side facing your cushion.  

This presents its own problems - especially with dri-fast foam.  Dri-fast seems to be very large-pored and rough these days.  I can't find any anymore with small pores and a smooth feel.  So, if you put the sewfoam foam side against dri-fast, sitting and walking on the cushion will cause the dri-fast to abrade the foam.  It needs silk film or a super-thin layer of dacron to permit the two layers of foam to slide without degrading one or the other.  

Just my philosophy and methods.  I'm sure others have their ways and some may be better.  

June

Maybe I've done it wrong, but I like Aqualon with the fabric side out.  I'm sure the vinyl side sheds dirt better, but I like the matte finish to show - kinda like Seamark.  I do like working with Aqualon and will probably do our own boat full cover with it. 

June

Holy cow, that's amateurish, at best.  I'd be too embarrassed to deliver that piece.  There are at least half a dozen mistakes made on that from a technical viewpoint.  It's a challenging design for a newbie, but the crooked seams, mis-matched top/bottom alignment making the inserts pull on a diagonal, apparent incorrect use of sew foam and other issues abound on that.  It appears the seam allowances weren't clipped or trimmed short on the inside curves - or maybe it's the sew foam.  For a so-called pro, it's unforgivable.  Wouldn't go on my boat.  $1500 is top dollar for that work (if it came out good).  I'd have quoted around $1200 for both seat bottom and back in the SE Florida area which is pretty high-priced.

June

Nice!  They're time-consuming though.  All those reinforcing patches and sewing on straps.  Much more work than a simple drawstring or ratcheting strap.

June

I've done my share of covers and upholstery for 4 or 5 $ per hour.  Some, even less.  As said, the trick is to make those situations a rarity.  And I don't change my prices either.  The quote goes on the final invoice.  However, I sometimes caution customers that I might find something unexpected (like rotten plywood) that will raise the price.  Even then, when I do, it's very little and not fore-warned. 

June

Really nice cover, Mike.  I've quoted a few in my time, but never been hired to make one.  I've always discouraged them due to outriggers, GPS antennas, whatever.  Best to hook underneath, but whatever the ciustomer wants...  It looks great though.   But I'm guessing a fit nightmare in the planning stages.  I didn't see any vents on there.  Did you put some?  I always liked the upside-down "V" shaped vents with Strataglass covers and mesh. 

June

I'm right there with you, Darren, at a whopping 60 inches all told (though my driver's license says 5'2" - wishful thinking).  Works, though, when I have to get inside a seat storage bin to undo the nuts from some thru-bolted nightmare.

Mojo, that looks like a great chair, and at a very reasonable price.  I think I'll get on the stick and order one.  I do need to look at modifying the treadles in my tables to raise them though because I don't want to get hip pain from too-high seats. 

June

Thanks all for the suggestions.  My sewing tables are at their lowest levels and I don't think I could deal with them lower since all the surrounding tables I built at that height to make a level surface.  I don't recall the exact height, but it's nowhere near 36 inches.  I think I need to raise the seat and treadle.  There's lots of adjustments and mods that will have to be made to handle that, but I think it's necessary at this point.  Sleeping at night works till the ibuprofen wears off - usually around 3:30 am.  I definitely need a new chair.    

I'm going to give that exercise a try, Tejas.  At this point I'm looking for anything that will give relief.  I can hardly fold a sheet - or do anything else that requires me to hold my arm out.  

June

Ok, I'm short - so maybe I have issues some of you can't relate to.  My left arm rotator cuff is killing me and I think it's sewing.  My seat is too low - the sewing table is above elbow height so my left arm is held aloft for many hours a day.  If I raise the seat to a level where my left arm can hang naturally, I can't reach the pedal comfortably.  My left shoulder is a mess.  Any suggestions?

June

Yesterday was a complete washout.  I think it rained for 6 or 7 hours without stopping (some times harder than others, of course).  Today it was hot and sunny (and humid) till 2 or so.  Then it moved in.  Rained non-stop till 6:30.  In 2 days I'd bet we've had 4 or 5 inches, all told.  Upper level low and a tropical wave means rain.  Tomorrow the prediction is 80% again.  If we don't drown, the mosquitoes will kill us in a week.

June

What stitch length are you using?  A too-long stitch will always show.  Too short, though, will create a weakness due to multiple perforations.  I usually do tight curves at roughly 8 stitches per inch.  Also, keep the thread tension fairly tight. 

Like Bobbin, I prefer a #18 needle for vinyl.

June

I always liked working with Stamoid.  Only complaint I ever got from customers was that the facings held water and grew green algae - and they do.  I've seen facings blow up like a balloon when it rains and the water is very slow to drain.  This also leaves green stains on the side of the boat. 

So... on your facings, near the bottom, wherever that may be, use your canvas hole puncher and put in a drain hole - only on the facing, of course.  Stamoid, thankfully, doesn't fray so this solution works just fine.

June