Whomever invented vinyl should be jailed...

[n01945]

Okay, ready to yank hair out... Have to sew a 90' angle on a vinyl cushion where the cushion becomes wider. Where I am pivoting, is producing a visible stitch hole. I have changed needle size, thread length, attempted more of a curve then a corner... Ugh! This is such a waste of time I am beside myself. Part of this cushion also has a 2" square bump out on one side. I really need to get this figured out. It looks so bad. Using Spradling nautilus capitano. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. French stitch?

Thanks
Nora

[ajlelectronics]

Are you using a leather point needle?

[n01945]

No, using a #22. Told not to use a leather needle on vinyl.

[ajlelectronics]

There you go then. Try a leather point. It's what I use for all my vinyl work.

[Joys Shop]

You might try gluing a patch on the underside of the vinyl where you are going to pivot--maybe a canvas patch

[n01945]

Thank you people, will try both ways.

[bobbin]

A 22 is a "crowbar"!  I try to stick to a 20 or an 18 for vinyl work.  And a leather needle is great because it doesn't punch a hole in the goods, it pierces the goods and leave a clean slice with little "slices" on all sides that fold around the thread. 

Another good tip (from the world of tailoring) is to take one diagonal stitch across the "pivot point" whenever you have to make a tight turn.  It seems counter-intuitive, but that single diagonal stitch allows you to clip in without endangering the seamline and allows the seam allowance to gently move and conform to the turn.  Make sense?

I also regularly use the insertion of a little bit of fabric in a corner to take some of the strain of the seam.  I don't stitch it in place I just put it under the needle and sew it, but it acts as a bit of reinforcement against thread wear. 

I don't work much with vinyl and whenever I do I get tense.  Mike, June, Grebo, JoJo, and Paul do a ton of vinyl upholstery and their work blows me away.  They make it look so easy. 

[MinUph]

Are you using a welt in this cushion? If not you will most always see a seam hole. Your 22 needle is fine. Unless your going through 6 or more layers its fine. I never use leather points on vinyl. Vinyl is not leather and behaves differently. The trick around corners is to position the needle 1/2" at the corner allowing for the sea, allowance. Snip you top fabric, probably the boxing up close to the needle and turn the piece around the corner. Position this tight against the needle before you let the foot down or during the release of the foot lift and sew away. If you can send pictures it may help to see you issue.

[JuneC]

What stitch length are you using?  A too-long stitch will always show.  Too short, though, will create a weakness due to multiple perforations.  I usually do tight curves at roughly 8 stitches per inch.  Also, keep the thread tension fairly tight. 

Like Bobbin, I prefer a #18 needle for vinyl.

June

[Mojo]

I am with the ladies. I prefer an # 18 needle....... #20 inch max.

Chris

[ajlelectronics]

I am sure that I already posted a response about this, but it seems that it has gone for some reason..

Anyway, with the vinyl that I use, I tend to have a 16 needle with 40 thread. In a leather point needle, it seems to suit what I do nicely. I have not noticed any problem with oversize holes at all.

[bobbin]

What I like about a leather point needle is that it doesn't punch a round hole in the goods.  Round holes "show"; it's not much of an issue with wovens because the needle generally passes between the warp and weft thread of the weave (unless the needle is too big for the weave and weight of the fabric).  Vinyls are not the same as leather, but they share many properties; namely the fact that once the hole is there it's there forever and it needs to be in the proper place and as unobtrusive as possible!

As stated previously, a leather needle cuts through the goods and leaving little "flaps" that fold around the thread snugly leaving minimal "evidence" of penetration.  In concert with proper needle size is the selection of the correct thread size.  I tend to prefer a size 18 needle with #69 thread for joining the goods.  I will knock that down to a size 16 needle and #46 thread if the vinyl is "light" (Ultra Leather!).  For topstitching, I like to use #92 or #138 (fatter, beefier thread looks nicer, I think) and bump the needle size up accordingly and I make the time to fiddle with the thread tensions to get a really nice looking stitch.

[chrisberry12]

Wow so much fuss over some needle and thread. They all work great if you take your time, snip and go. I have been doing this since 1981 and have always used #69 thread and whatever needle came with the industrial machine, no clue what it is haha. Once I learned how to sew the cushion, (corners) are the hardest), practice makes perfect... I always use 1/2" seams and make three snips at the corners. So just take some scrap and just play with seam length and keep playing till you get what you want. Don't be afraid of it get after it!

[bobbin]

You guys have to forgive me.  It matters! and it's not, "fuss". 

In the garment world proper needle size (and tip point!) and thread size are really important to the final product.  You need to use a ball point needle for knits, you need to use a wedge point for vinyls and leather, and you need to use the smallest needle possible for whatever operation you're performing.  It's said that the "devil is in the details" and that's precisely where the "professional touch" is, too. 

I just did an interior in Ultra Leather (fully welted) and there is no way I'd use a size 22 needle and 92 or 138 thread for seaming any more than I'd use a wedge point needle and #46 thread to stitch silk chameuse.  I'm not saying you have to run right out and stock up on specific needles; what I am saying is that knowledge is power and if you see your business moving in a specific direction then stock the tools that will make your professional product look as good as it possibly can look!  It matters.  (and that's why tailors always take one diagonal stitch across the pivot point, because it gives a crisp, neat turn to welt pockets and bound buttonholes).