Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
  • Welcome to The Upholster.com Forum. Please login or sign up.
 
April 19, 2024, 01:53:19 pm

News:

Welcome to our new upholstery forum with an updated theme and improved functionality. We welcome your comments and questions to our forum! Visit our main website, Upholster.com, for our extensive supply of upholstery products, instructional information and videos, and much more.


Help! Marine carpet won't budge

Started by timtheboatguy, March 23, 2011, 03:39:50 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

timtheboatguy

I am recarpeting a 24' Playcraft pontoon boat and I can not get the carpet up. I have done numerous re-carpets in my lifetime and never have had so much trouble getting the old carpet liberated from the plywood deck. Any thoughts on what to use- solvent, heat ???

Thanks!
http://www.timtheboatguy.com

We are not retreating - we are advancing in another direction.
Douglas MacArthur

Darren Henry

I'd go with heat. I haven't found a solvent that works well with rubber backing (can't get in there). I'm always very cautious about the fumes coming off that stuff though so do it outside or at least well ventilated and in sections. The other thing I've done is to borrow one of those kick butt flooring scrapers once I have the edges free and can swing it.
Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!


timtheboatguy

The multifunction tool may do the trick, if not it may work to remove staples. Harbor Freight has one for $40.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html

I don't know what kind of glue they used at the factory on this boat but even if I can get the backing to pull up the fibers remain stuck to the deck. Oh the ever shrinking profit margin  :'(
http://www.timtheboatguy.com

We are not retreating - we are advancing in another direction.
Douglas MacArthur

DBR1957

A trick I used a couple of times is pull up all you can. Then get one of those cup
style wire brushes with the heavy wire. Put it in a buffer or grinder (variable
speed type) and it will take up the remaining fibers and backing in no time.
Don't use too much force or speed or you will gouge the plywood.

Be sure to wear eye protection in case some of the wires break off!

SHHR

A while back I was in our local True Value hardware store gettimg some lumber and saw a set of scraper blades that you mount in the end of a "sawzall" reciprocating saw. they had one in an inch, three inch, and five inch. I bought the mid size one to give it a try for tough carpet and it works really well. Just put your saw on the slower setting and let the blade work. It may help if you have someone kepping light upward pressure on the carpet as youre moving along with it.
Kyle

BigJohn

I was thinking of the sawzall with the addition of the scraper blade as well, but, was concerned that the plywood would suffer at the hands of that blade. If you decide to redeck with new plywood be sure to use a good quality marine grade 7 ply Fir plywood and don't go near that green treated plywood as it has too many voids and you will regret using it as it will be sponge and flex too much!
                                       Big John

JuneC

Quote from: DBR1957 on March 23, 2011, 09:34:15 pm
A trick I used a couple of times is pull up all you can. Then get one of those cup
style wire brushes with the heavy wire. Put it in a buffer or grinder (variable
speed type) and it will take up the remaining fibers and backing in no time.
Don't use too much force or speed or you will gouge the plywood.

Be sure to wear eye protection in case some of the wires break off!


That was going to be my suggestion.  You beat me to it!  The wire brush will probably fill up with fibers, but using a pick (wire dog grooming brush comes to mind), clean it out and go at it again.  It'll do less damage to the plywood and give quicker results.  I use one on an old wired drill (batteries are too heavy) for cleaning the glue off hull/headliner boards.  The old style corded drills are much lighter than any battery operated device and you're not dealing with reduced power as time passes. 

June
"Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people."

     W. C. Fields

Cathy111

Here is what I have done on a couple of pontoon decks (takes the muscle out of removing carpet):
You'll need a come-along (see Harbor freight tools).
1 short section of chain
1 2x4x8
Start at the front of the pontoon and pull carpet back approx. 8 inches (across full width of pontoon). This might be tedious but is a must.
You can split the carpet into 2 or 3 sections if you need to (run a razor knife through the carpet front to rear of the deck) Shorten your 2x4 to the desired width.
Staple the carpet to the 2x4 (2 inch side) then roll the 2x4 rearward 1 full turn. Cut a hole in the center of the carpet after the full turn and attach the ratchet end of the come-along to the 2x4 using the  small length of chain through this hole.
Attach the other end of the come-along to the rear of the boat (use some method that will be strong and will not destroy the decking).
Then ratchet the carpet rearward (having another person scrape the carpet as you go if possible) this method keeps the carpet low (near the deck) and tends to pull the carpet off the wood leaving less fiber. Use the wire brush cup on your drill motor to remove the remaining fibers.

timtheboatguy

Quote from: Cathy111 on March 24, 2011, 07:42:36 pm
Here is what I have done on a couple of pontoon decks (takes the muscle out of removing carpet):
You'll need a come-along (see Harbor freight tools).
1 short section of chain
1 2x4x8
Start at the front of the pontoon and pull carpet back approx. 8 inches (across full width of pontoon). This might be tedious but is a must.
You can split the carpet into 2 or 3 sections if you need to (run a razor knife through the carpet front to rear of the deck) Shorten your 2x4 to the desired width.
Staple the carpet to the 2x4 (2 inch side) then roll the 2x4 rearward 1 full turn. Cut a hole in the center of the carpet after the full turn and attach the ratchet end of the come-along to the 2x4 using the  small length of chain through this hole.
Attach the other end of the come-along to the rear of the boat (use some method that will be strong and will not destroy the decking).
Then ratchet the carpet rearward (having another person scrape the carpet as you go if possible) this method keeps the carpet low (near the deck) and tends to pull the carpet off the wood leaving less fiber. Use the wire brush cup on your drill motor to remove the remaining fibers.



I think I will try this along with some heat from my shrink wrap tourch. Weather too nasty today, I will post my results next week.
http://www.timtheboatguy.com

We are not retreating - we are advancing in another direction.
Douglas MacArthur

CKKC

I don't know if it would help you any but I use an old steam iron on moderate heat. 

timtheboatguy

April 03, 2011, 04:59:27 pm #11 Last Edit: April 03, 2011, 05:04:03 pm by timtheboatguy
I ended up scoring the carpet about every six inches so I could pull up the top layer,  then with my shrink wrap heat gun I heated areas about four foot square until the rubber backing was smoking hot, then scraped with a garden type scraper. A twenty four foot deck took me about eight hours to get the carpet up and that was after all the side rails and furniture were removed.

Next time I will estimate more just in case this happens again.

Tired and worn Tim  ???
http://www.timtheboatguy.com

We are not retreating - we are advancing in another direction.
Douglas MacArthur

DBR1957

April 03, 2011, 05:16:00 pm #12 Last Edit: April 03, 2011, 05:18:38 pm by DBR1957
There's nothing time, sweat and a bottle of Advil can't achieve. Good for you!

There's a local shop here that works specifically on bass boats. They started taking in pontoon boats and had asked me to quote covers and carpet jobs. When I gave them a price on a carpet job I had to perform CPR. They attempted it themselves with pretty good results and had qouted the customer about 1/3 of my price. The next time I saw the shop owner his only words were, "Now I understand".

Always include the unforeseeable in your estimate. It's a lot easier to charge less than quoted than try to get back what you lost.

Mike8560

Dbr if the shop charges rhe owner 1/3 of what you were going to chage them were they in turn going to tack on 30• or whatever for themselfs ?

Lynn

It would have been cheaper to rip up the whole floor and replace the plywood...and quicker
Lynn
Life's too short.....let's go fishing!!!