Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
Need Help? Call Us 415-423-3313
  • Welcome to The Upholster.com Forum. Please login or sign up.
 
November 21, 2024, 10:28:29 pm

News:

Welcome to our new upholstery forum with an updated theme and improved functionality. We welcome your comments and questions to our forum! Visit our main website, Upholster.com, for our extensive supply of upholstery products, instructional information and videos, and much more.


Serrated Walking Feet

Started by go_hercules, September 23, 2010, 08:44:35 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

go_hercules

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of walking feet with the gripping teeth on the bottom?  My feet have smooth bottoms only.  I notice when sewing a curved piece to a straighter piece that no matter how hard I try the top piece seems to get away from me just a little.  This is not a speed issue - I can go very slowly - but it seems to be a slippage type issue maybe.  This only happens when the top piece is quite a bit more curved than the bottom.  I'm wondering if either I should increase the foot pressure, or maybe try the serrated foot.  Thanks for any pointers.

ThrowMeAPillow

increase?  maybe DEcrease...
not quite sure what you mean, though.  Is there welt already attached to one piece or the other?  (try attaching it to the other piece)

have you clipped the welt and the straight piece before attaching it to the curved piece?

Need more info to help

bobbin

Often slippage is due to insufficient presser foot tension or possibly a feed dog that's too low.  But if you're experiencing no difficulty with control on straight seams and you're happy with the stitch length it's probably not the feed dog.  A low feed dog can result in abnormally short stitches, esp. when working on loftier fabrics. 

I typically only find the "serrated" bottoms on zipper feet for walking foot machines.  And it makes sense when you think about it; to install a zipper you need to be able to put the presser foot close to the teeth of the zipper, and with a compound feed machine achieving that closeness means you're sacrificing 1/2 the presser foot surface, so the narrower feet are serrated for more "grab". 

Also, I've noticed that it really does make sense to swap out the presser feet routinely... a welting set up will not give you the stablility and control a set of stock feet will, unless you're actually inserting welting in a seam. 

Hope this helps. 

go_hercules

Just to clarify - I am simply blind stitching two pieces of vinyl together face to face.  No welting.  Plain smooth bottom walking foot.  I thought I have seen serrated bottoms on plain walking feet, but you're saying they only come on zipper feet?

bobbin

No, I'm not saying that.  I've only seen serrated feet on zipper feet, but they're probably available on other feet, as well. 

I suspect you need to adjust the pressure on the presser feet; you shouldn't  experience a lot of slippage joining 2 layers of vinyl together. 

sofadoc

Years ago, I aquired several walking foot machines from a local factory that closed. Some of them had the welt feet with the serrated bottoms. Every one of them had been ground smooth (on purpose, not just due to wear).
I would think that you would risk scuffing vinyl with them.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Mike8560

My old singer had sedated feet before they wore down almost smoothe. My new juku when I bought it also did I dint use a welt foot when I make my piping I just ride my foot ion top
of the welt   The new sedated teeth scuffed the vinyl so I filed them down smoth.

baileyuph

Quotealso did I dint use a welt foot when I make my piping I just ride my foot ion top
of the welt   


Mike, you make welt without a welt foot, I can't visualize that; zipper foot is used a lot but flat feet used to made a welt.  That act would be interesting to watch.

Obviously, it works, your work is very good.

If you ever think about it, show a picture of that one Mike.

Doyle

Mojo

I have done it before too Doyle. But I admit you need to hold your work tight against the side of the foot and control your fabric well.

I will do it if I need a short piece of welt sewed ( to lazy to change feet ). If I am going to sew long ( or numerous ) pieces I swap out the feet.

I bet Mike has been doing it this way for so long that he has it down to perfection. Like I said I have done it but it takes a lot of focus and you typically have to slow down. I prefer the welt foot myself but as I indicated above, I do get a little lazy now and then and wont swap out my feet for short runs. :)

Chris

Mike8560

September 28, 2010, 03:59:46 pm #9 Last Edit: September 28, 2010, 04:08:57 pm by Mike8560
Quote from: DB on September 25, 2010, 08:14:53 pm
Quotealso did I dint use a welt foot when I make my piping I just ride my foot ion top
of the welt  


Mike, you make welt without a welt foot, I can't visualize that; zipper foot is used a lot but flat feet used to made a welt.  That act would be interesting to watch.

Obviously, it works, your work is very good.

If you ever think about it, show a picture of that one Mike.

Doyle

doyle the left toe rides on top while the center toe tucks the vinyl down tight


baileyuph

Excellent demo Mike, I can see what you do.  Your filler core for the cord must be the hard plastic; but even at that rate it is amazing that you can ride down the top of the cord so accurately.

I am going to try that on one of my machines with the flat feet.  Let you know what happens.

Doyle


sofadoc

Well, I can see that it works. But, is there any advantage to it? I mean, can you keep it straighter, or something? I know that sometimes when I'm sewing 5/32 fiberflex welt with a 1/4 welt foot, the seam rides away from the cord if I don't watch it.
Are you using plastic welt? What size? It seems like it would mash down 5/32 fiberflex. How about when you sew the welt to another panel? Do you use that foot with cloth as well as vinyl?
Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but I'm always willing to try something different.
Like Doyle, I'm gonna give it a spin tomorrow. I'm also curious about how it'll turn corners on a boxed cushion.
Your work speaks for itself, so there must be something to it.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

Can-Vas

Quote from: go_hercules on September 23, 2010, 08:44:35 pm
Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of walking feet with the gripping teeth on the bottom?  My feet have smooth bottoms only.   I'm wondering if either I should increase the foot pressure, or maybe try the serrated foot.  Thanks for any pointers.


Although the serrated feet might give more grip  it's my experience that it could too easily mar the finish (leave marks) on vinyls and some fabrics.  Increasing pressure slightly might be the answer if you are continually encountering this problem.

H
I'd rather be sailing..  - but if ya gotta work it's nice to be around boats!

Mike8560

September 29, 2010, 06:14:20 pm #13 Last Edit: September 29, 2010, 06:17:52 pm by Mike8560
Sofa I use 5/32 poly foam welt. Ive never tried a welt foot I just started making some one day along time ago when i first started sewing. I didnt have a foot and I dont think id like changing feet all the time. heres a question. After I make my welt I see it to my top plate the sew my boxing to the top plate and welt do you a welt foot for all theese steps?  I've never had any trouble tuning straight as inuse my fingers as a guide while sewing.

sofadoc

Mike: Yes, I use a welt foot for all 3 steps. I tried sewing welt with a regular foot today, but all I have is fiberflex (tissue) welt, so the foot really flattened it out. I can see where it would work better with foam welt.  My 1/4 welt foot has a smooth bottom, so I can usually do plain hemming without changing it.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban