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Glueing poly on the back of 1000 denier Cordura, can I?????

Started by hdflame, September 02, 2010, 09:12:57 am

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hdflame

OK, I told you guys about a lap robe that I was making for use on a sidecar rig.  I have some 1000 denier urethane backed Cordura, but the urethane backing is not very good.  I know it's not going to be waterproof, so I got to thinking, why not contact cement some regular roll plastic poly (Like from Lowe's or Home Depot) on the backside?  It's going to be sandwiched between another layer of Cordura on the outside anyway.

I was thinking of using 4 mil, but I think 2 mil should work fine and be less bulk.  I was going to wait till I had the two sides sewed up, then glue the poly on the back side of the top and bottom piece.  Some of these will also get a layer of Dacron padding between the top and bottom layers for extra warmth.  Then the two layers will be sewn together around the perimeter.  Haven't decided if I will run any sew lines across it to quilt the Dacron in place??

What do you guys think?  The poly is not going to be exposed.  Do you think it will stick OK and hold up?  The reason for glueing was to make the Cordura waterproof and to prevent water from getting between the layers and not drying out good.

I'm planning on changing to a different material when this is used up, but hated to waste this if the poly will work.

Tell me what you think?????
Bobby
www.riddlescustomupholstery.com
www.sunstopper.biz
Several Old Singers
Elna SU
Older Union Special
BRAND NEW Highlead GC0618-1-SC
and a new Cobra Class 4 Leather Machine  ;)

bobbin

Why would you wish to add another production step to a product that is pretty straight forward if you work with a product like "Seamark" from the start? 

From what I learned in a manufacturing setting there is no way in hell I'd undertake a lamination process in a "one man shop" setting.  I think what you have described would be a disaster waiting to happen, but that's nothing more than my own opinion. 

hdflame

Quote from: bobbin on September 02, 2010, 09:42:06 am
Why would you wish to add another production step to a product that is pretty straight forward if you work with a product like "Seamark" from the start? 

From what I learned in a manufacturing setting there is no way in hell I'd undertake a lamination process in a "one man shop" setting.  I think what you have described would be a disaster waiting to happen, but that's nothing more than my own opinion. 


Maybe you missed this:
"I'm planning on changing to a different material when this is used up, but hated to waste this if the poly will work."

I am switching to a different material.  I have about 10 yards of this Cordura on hand and wondered if anyone may have done something like this before.

This would not be my first choice, but didn't see why it wouldn't work since it was going to be completely covered up.

Bobby
www.riddlescustomupholstery.com
www.sunstopper.biz
Several Old Singers
Elna SU
Older Union Special
BRAND NEW Highlead GC0618-1-SC
and a new Cobra Class 4 Leather Machine  ;)

bobbin

Yupper, I definitely missed that, Bobby.   ::)

But if you opt to laminate in your shop I think you should think long and hard about the tools required to do it effectively ( do you alread own them/if you don't how much will they cost and what will that do to the price/per cost?)... and, more importantly, the "learning curve" required to get the sort of result you want to see on the finished product.  Tools are important, but so is all the time required to learn to use them effectively!

Personally?  I bag the goods on hand ("write 'em off") and move on to the better, one shot deal fabric.  But that's just my opinion.   

hdflame

I tried gluing some 2 mil poly to the backside of one of the lap robes today.  The 2 mil is thin enough that if there's some light wrinkling in the plastic, it doesn't show on the front.  If I would have glued it to the Material before sewing it together, it would have worked a lot better.  The material should have been completely flat...it has a dart in it when sewed together.

I get what you're saying about laminating, but it doesn't have to look good in this situation, just stick and keep the water out.  If I was using it for a boat top, where the bottom side would be visible, then it would have to be perfect.  So long as the top side is smooth with no wrinkles showing, I don't care what the bottom side with the poly  looks like.  Hope that makes sense??  I wouldn't even try to do this if it were visible.

BTW, after fighting with this, you're right about bagging it!  It was too much time wasted on gluing the poly to the material. :o  This is something new I'm making, so I've been playing with what type of material to use.  Miami Mike is sending me some samples that should be here tomorrow.  Hopefully that will be the answer to my quest! ;D

Thanks for your insight and suggestions.

Bobby
www.riddlescustomupholstery.com
www.sunstopper.biz
Several Old Singers
Elna SU
Older Union Special
BRAND NEW Highlead GC0618-1-SC
and a new Cobra Class 4 Leather Machine  ;)