Coverting a hide a bed to non hide a bed

[cajunpedaler]

This is a possible project for myself.  I have a nice little loveseat that is presently a hide a bed.  I am thinking of taking out the guts and mechanics that make it a hide a bed and installing something that will be as close to a non-hide a bed as I can get it, after market.
Any ideas, suggestions..?
Thanks.
Perry

[sofadoc]

I've done it once for a customer back when I was just a "worker bee" doing what I was told.

I removed the mech, and added framing to the inside frame of the sofa that I could mount no-sag springs to. Then I covered over the springs with some padding and a decking cloth.

It was a lot of work, and IMO not worth doing as a job for a paying customer. But since this is a personal project for yourself, I guess that would be your call.

[byhammerandhand]

From strictly a stress-analysis point of view:   

I think the majority of the seating stress on a sofa bed is borne by the mechanism / trampoline that is attached to the arm frames.  The front and back rails can be minimal.

Adding a deck would add front to back stress with the zig-zag springs (or webbing) and the weight applied to them, so you'll need to add a couple of front-to-back supports, low enough not to bottom out on the cushions when occupied.

Additionally, there will now be more weight on the front kick-panel (and maybe back base panel) and there may need to be some stiffening added so it does not sag(vertically) in the middle

Beam strength is proportional to the cube of the stressed dimension.   So, for example, doubling the width of a support doubles its beam strength.  Doubling the height increases the beam strength by eight, or 4 times as much as doubling the thickness.  Conclusion: higher better than thicker.

[Darren Henry]

Same as Dennis---done it once or twice and you have to beef up the frame. You can use 2X? construction spruce. I make all my frames (what few I do now-a-days) out of 2X 8 or 10 spruce, just make sure you are using clear wood---knots will kill you.

you'll need to add a couple of front-to-back supports, low enough not to bottom out on the cushions when occupied.

Rather than being lower the entire length I use full height to stop the front and back rails from pulling inward and cut out a piece 2 1/2 or 3 " from just behind the back to about 2" from the front for the springs to sag into. Curve down---cut the straight bit and then curve up to the end points.

[cajunpedaler]

Good answers.  Made me rethink the project.  Thanks all.

[kodydog]

Just a thought. If you could pick up a mid-century loveseat at a thrift store for around $100 you'd be much better off.

[SteveA]

Sounds like an interesting project but one thing to mention.  Sitting on a pull out bed is a firm seat especially with a dense foam cushion.  I have a sofa bed in the house and older visitors go to that sofa first before the other chairs since they like the ease of getting up easily and their backs don't arch.
SA

[Darren Henry]

I think Steve kick started my morning coffee. I have a love seat that has a storage drawer where the hide-a-bed mech would be. It is framed much like a hide-a-bed; and the seat deck is a flat 3/4" thick frame that sits on top of the front/back borders. There are openings where your butt would sit covered with synthetic, non elastic webbing and the whole thing is covered in vinyl.

I can get you some pics etc.. tonight if your interested.