Darren, Ready for Channel Back Shortcuts

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Hey Darren:

I've just about got the volkswagon whipped into submission ; )  only 5 more chairs for the restaurant to recover and the bridesmaid dress will be altered by COB Thursday so I'm ready to further venture into the land of Channel back chairs and loveseats.  I know in my original thread you said that you had some shortcuts you would share with me and the rest of us newby's.  I'm frothing at the bit to get going on that project.  Have welting sewn and skirting made.  Worked on the seat over the weekend also.  So, I'm ready to hear your shortcuts so I can start gameplanning this.

Thanks bunches!

Virginia

[Darren Henry]

I should re-read your first post first---but need to repair the motorhome and maybe actually eat something this week [maybe the streak I took cruising with me over the weekend and BBQ'd last night]. I can't afford to miss any more  meals unless I put a grill on the shower drain.

The main point was avoiding using piping tins as Paul and Dennis mentioned. Or at the very least not having to invest in them for a one-off job. The other was going to discuss "fill" for these channel backs.

Just so we are all on page; let me explain a couple of terms I'll be using.

FACE FABRIC= the fabric you see when the job is complete.
BACKING (FABRIC) = the muslin or ticking type fabric you sew the face fabric to.
STRAIGHT RUN= the channels are all "rectangles" that can be done in large panel.
CURVED RUN= pie shaped pieces cut to go around a curve that is slanted.  ;) top curve is going to be longer,right?

The short version is ----cut the backing over sized/do your sewing/cut the backing from top to bottom in the centre/ add your fill/ close up the backing. I generally go 1 1/2-2 " so that I have some "wiggle room". THAT SAID I always put a solid layer or Herculite,burlap, whatever over the back springs---not just some jute webbing.

If you choose to go "old school" --- you can improvise piping tins out of boat window plastic. One the size of the face fabric -1/2"---One backing size - 1/2"---sew one side together and leave the other open. It'll get you through---silicone helps.

[chrisberry12]

You can cut a cardboard tube in half for piping tins also if you have a band saw. I wrap my channel padding in Dacron to help slide in and smooth out any bumps in the cotton or kapok channels. I make my muslin backing cut same as fabric pieces, much easier to upholster rather then sewing your channels to a sheet of muslin backing. Allows for more movement and lining up. Everyone has their style or methos of doing Channels. Pipping tins are not all that expensive so down the road you could get them. Have fun

Chris
Www.onislandupholstery.com

[cthomps]

If I was going to invest in tins, what is the most common size to add to my tool box?  Thanks.

[sofadoc]

If I was going to invest in tins, what is the most common size to add to my tool box?  Thanks.

Many suppliers only carry one size. Some list sizes of 2", 3", and 4". I have all 3, but I use the 4" tins well over 90% of the time.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Many suppliers only carry one size. Some list sizes of 2", 3", and 4". I have all 3, but I use the 4" tins well over 90% of the time. 
[/quote]

Is that simply the width of the fabric?  I'm looking at my filling and pushing it tight, it looks like a 4 incher.

Thanks 

Virginia

[sofadoc]

The set on the far right is my trusty set that was handed down from my grandparents. They used them in the 60's. I've used them ever since.

The other 2 sets I acquired from a shop that closed. I rarely use them.

It's hard to tell exactly where to measure them. So I'm really not sure what size my trusty set is. They measure 5" at the widest point. The smaller ones on the far left measure 3" at their widest point.

[Darren Henry]

How are things going on this Virginia? I'll need a little heads up to find or replicate the vids I had on the subject. No pressure --- just asking.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Kind of in a rut.  Have gotten the pleating ready to go, as well as the welting.  Need to decide if I'm going to make the channel back form or buy one (that is my weekend decision).  I've gotten wrapped around the axle so to speak with the VW.  I've spent way too much time on it this week with not much to show for it.  Top is on but there's a cable that is supposed to suck the top (just in front of the welting) into a U channel.  All I have to show for my efforts is one hellacious back ache.  Probably something a fused spiney should avoid but I love walking that fine line.

Anyway, I'll decide on that this weekend as well as watch the links that are posted in the earlier thread and intend to spend most of my mornings next week on the chair.  I got more than a little behind the last couple of weeks between being sick and Carly issues.  Hoping for smooth sailing for a while.

Virginia

[Darren Henry]

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the bug on top of a really tough week. You'll have to make Bob do the vacuuming after he rolls you in liniment until back mends.

Need to decide if I'm going to make the channel back form or buy one

We must call it something different up here. What is a channel back form?

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

We must call it something different up here. What is a channel back form?

Duh on my part -- looking earlier in the thread, I think I mean piping tins.  Those are what make those really cool backs with each piece uniform in width???

Virginia

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the bug on top of a really tough week.

Finally, after 4 days of trying, made progress on the top.  A boat customer came over while I was in the garage and expressed an interest in the bug.  I explained to him what was supposed to happen with the cable, top and U or J channel (always forget which it is).  Took much trial and error but we were finally able to get the cable worked around the back of the bug and into the channel.  One nut did work its way loose so I'll have to use pliers to extricate it from its current position tomorrow but at least solid progress.  Customer said that he was more than willing to work with it again tomorrow evening should I still be having problems.  I told him if I am having problems working that cable out to where the nut can be attached, I'll call him and if he helps, I'll lessen his labor charges on his upcoming boat project I'm doing for him.  Seems like a great deal for me.  Bob is willing but he's got enough health issues that he doesn't need to be standing around fighting with this thing. 

Anyway, a nice positive way for a Sunday afternoon to turn into.  : )

Virginia

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

The short version is ----cut the backing over sized/do your sewing/cut the backing from top to bottom in the centre/ add your fill/ close up the backing. I generally go 1 1/2-2 " so that I have some "wiggle room". THAT SAID I always put a solid layer or Herculite,burlap, whatever over the back springs---not just some jute webbing.

Darren:

Short version:  are you doing this without piping tins, ie, sewing the backing to the fabric and then filling/closing?  You are cutting an individual backing for each piece and then sewing together after they are filled?

I think I've decided that the short version would be better for me at this point.  I have all the front pieces cut, just not sure of the backing.  Once I have that figured out, I'm ready to start flying!!!

Thanks!

Virginia

[Darren Henry]

I do this without any type of piping tins for the most part. I do two different ways depending on the back:

On a straight run (picture a bench with a row of rectangular channels) , I figure out the width of material to cover each section [thickness of the foam X 2 + width of section - how much do I want to squeeze the foam down X how many sections]. I then sew a piece of fabric that big to the backing on chalk marks that correspond to that measurement. I then cut the backing in the centre of each section, add my fill (usually foam) and then staple &/or hand stitch the back to the width of each section.

On a slanted curve (corner---triangular pieces) I cut and sew individual panels for both sides, and then treat like above.

The fill goes in after everything is sewn, regardless. And the the backing is "taken in" to reach our target dimensions.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Thanks!

Should be a relatively quiet morning for a change.  Hope to get a good start this morning while it's too chilly to work in the garage on the bug.

Virginia