Tacking strip replacements - Auto convertible top

[baileyuph]

Anyone replaced the tacking strips in a GM convertible top frame of the mid sixties?

I have pop riveted, glued and......... but am wanting some insights on replacing the tacking material on the top frame, forexample where the manufacturer installed the original with a strong pneumatic wire stapler, for lack of a better description.

The main rear bow, a thicker and deeper strip was installed the same way, the wire staple method.  Needless to say, I have a frame on a 68 Firebird (they are all the same) and due to age and multiple top replacements over time, it needs a complete strip replacement.

Any references, experiences with these to share.  Kyle, you probably have been down this path before?

Doyle

[SHHR]

Like you said those fiber strips wear out and hardly ever will hold a staple again. Your supplier will offer rolls of heavy vinyl tack strip in usually two sizes (I believe they are 1/4" thick and 1/2" or 3/8" thick. From experience the thinner one works well for the front header strip and also around door frames for windlacing. These are usually held in with tabs on your part that just fold over the strip to hold them in place. The thicker rear strips like you stated are usually stapled at the factory through the metal which our staple guns in no way can do this. Also too the thicker replacements are most often thinner than the originals, so I double them up with one thick strip and one thin strip sandwiched together to build the correct thickness. I fasten them by drilling through the strip into the metal frame and either pop-rivet or use stainless sheetmetal screws countersunk into the vinyl strp about every 6-8".  I hope this answers your question, If it's difficult to understand my ramblings let me know and I'll try to explain better.
Kyle

[baileyuph]

Ditto to everything you do Kyle. To repeat, these top frames are getting old and the tacking strips have transitioned from needing header bow replacement (1/4 inch) and some repairs on the intermediate bows to just about replacement on every bow.

The rear main bow, sometimes I get nervous about drilling into it (where factory shot the high powered staple) for fear of going through the entire bow metal.  I think you are correct on the thickness available, the thicker might be 3/8Th inch, I don't do tops everyday and tend to forget. IT is heck being over 40!

I like your idea of using the stainless steel screws, might give that some consideration.

The belt line tacking frame, that screws to the body of the car is trash, I found that is available as reproduction item. Hope it fits.

This car will get plastic window, for that matter I don't know if glass was available back then (68)? This car is going through a body shop for complete restoration and they took care of the hydraulics, everything it seems has been replaced.  I usually do about three complete top/upholstery from them a year plus incidental work. The work is getting harder, these cars are literally worn out, at least the ones being restored.  I don't know what auto period of cars will be next of interest to the collectors? IT is getting so expensive to do this work, it takes quite a bank roll to support the restoration activity.  

Back to the intermediate bows where the pads only get stapled, this would be the second bow back counting from the header, is that a bow that can be drilled? Is it two layers of metal?  I don't believe it is, but not sure right now.  I suppose the body shop inadvertently filled any staple holes that were there for they have the frame now in new painted condition.  

But, we shall find out all these concerns and questions.

Thanks Kyle,

Doyle

[SHHR]

Some of those older cars the pads were only fastened at the the front (header) and the rear (the one that just floats there) bows. I'm doing a 68 mustang right now that is that way. at the ends of the center bows there is a thick piece of felt glued in the chennel there and I'm guessing is to keep the pads from wearing in those spots. I'm not familiar with the geometry on that specific top even though most are the same, if you had the pads fastened at all of the bows they could possibbly rip loose when operating. Glass window are usually offered as options, and whether its glass or vinyl remind the customer to unzip the window every time and lay it in the top well. I found out the hard way on a glass one before long before I was doing upholstery!
Kyle

[baileyuph]

I supose glass could have been an option on this 68 Firebird, before long I will know as the top and associated items have not been purchased.

Talking about which bows the pads get attached to and which do not, I need to give that some thought.

The three that are obvious is header, rear main, and counting one bow forward from the rear main, the pads are attached to.  The one just in front of the rear main bow actually gets screws holding the pad on.  About four or five.  That makes three, I suppose there are two more bows that need to be determined.  I might do that next week. 

I am installing well liner, cables, and pads, as well as top (plastic window).  Small car but that doesn't necessarily mean easier.  I think some corvettes have been as challenging as about any sedan.

Always something to learn, no matter how long one has been doing this stuff.  Of course, I am so diversified, that makes a difference.

The felt pad is an insulator to dampen any flapping noise,  sometimes the felt extends across the entire bow.

Like said, still learning.

Doyle

[Rich]

Doyle, I remember attending a convertible installation demo back in the 80's where the installer had what I thought was a novel idea for tack strip replacement. After cleaning out the old fiber strip, he mixed up some Bondo and filled the cavity with it. He noted that you can vary the hardness (and the set up time) by varying the amount of catalyst.
No screws or rivets needed.
Rich