Difficult geometry of some forward enclosure panels

[JuneC]

So how do YOU shape the forward glass panels on those small boats where the windshield angles forward (at maybe 40 - 45 degrees or so) and around toward the stern, meanwhile the panel hangs straight down?  I've done it two different ways - one creates a good fit, but takes too long, the other creates a bad fit IMHO.

Most I've seen are done the fast way - the panel is simply pulled and snapped to the top of the windshield and there are pulls and buckles in the vinyl all over the place.  It just doesn't fit closely like it should because of the angle and curve of the windshield.  I guess if I made my window really short so it just barely hit the w/s snaps, the effect would be minimized, but I hate that as well.  I'll go as narrow as 1.5 inches wide, but any narrower than that and you'll have water coming in all around. 

The one I did that fit really nice had the clear vinyl come straight down to the top of the w/s frame, then the bottom band flared out to follow the plane of the frame.  The bottom band was in two pieces, much like the waistband on a lady's skirt.  Whole lotta work, it was, but looked nice.

Am I missing some easier, quicker method that still produces good results?

June

[Mike]

i know what your talking of June , i like to keep the angle close to the windshirld for look and windflow as long as the angle is close im happy with with the bottom as in this red boat i did thid about 15 years ago it is slightly  more upright then the windshield n notive the lousey way i hade the sip open section oin the center no facing flap over the upright zippers ,  the turquise canvas on the searay was originaly vinyl nut was changed to vcanvas but the angle in close to the windshields  this was a oem frame.



if it an extreem angle different like this window you need a different plane for the bottom snap flap  espicially on a curved window it has to curve the oposite of the wimdow


the other one is on flybridges ;ike this one the century screen angkes forward and the window up straight so i hace to pattern a seperate curved flap for the snaps

[Peppy]

We do the second way. Especially on flybridges as Mike says. I don't know of a quick way. Or really anyother way. You could sew in miniature triangle gussets here and there? Oh wait I have seen that way attempted. Don't bother.

[JuneC]

I was hoping there was an easier way.  In that 23WA, Mike, the windshield is flat.  That makes it a bit easier.  When there's a curve, I guess the 2 piece band is the only way to go.  Funny, in my 7 years of doing canvas, I've actually NEVER seen a single small boat with a 2-piece band on the bottom edge.  They're all just cut very short and pulled and tugged.  With thin (stretchy) clear vinyl you can somewhat get away with that.  With 40 gauge, you're never going to get it to flare enough to fit right.  Well, maybe after years of heating/cooling cycles it'll get better.  I've seen plenty of glass that's so stretched out of shape you wonder how it ever could have gotten that way without being in a fire. 

Well thanks guys!  You've answered my question.  If anyone else has a brilliant solution to this common problem, I'm all ears.

June

[Peppy]

I re-fit a T top this fall that was done as you say June, cut tight and pulled. Up here that'll work for 1 or 2 months a year. I had to cut the window and sew a piece to the bottom. Because it was a refit and the guy wasn't picky and just wanted it done up, I added a straight piece of fabric to the curved window to get the 'pie crust effect'. Instead of patterning the material piece. 

On a smaller boat where the angle isn't too steep but enough to be a problem, we add a piece to the bottom in material only. 'Facing' but without the window under the fabric and no different shape from the window. This lets the window do what it wants and the fabric will buckle to let the shape happen. For the most part anyway.