Seat cover just finished.....ain't happy.

[RocketmanMH1]

I'm going to try to link a photo, then get some opinions.

[RocketmanMH1]

You guys and gals see the wrinkles for lack of a better term...  They were not in the cover befor handling them while topstitching,  I will admit it was a pita to topst. with the limited space I have to work in but they weren't folded more than 8 -10 min while stitchin.   I need to know why they stay in there.  This cover has been on for about 4 hrs, also warmed it up with the steamer from the outside.   ANY Clues???



Mike

[DCAutoUpholstery]

Did you glue the material to the sew foam?

[RocketmanMH1]

I put light cover of keyston top and trim on the foam and vinyl, in my opin. just enough to hold them while sewing the perimeter of each panel.

[limey]

Can you draw in the listings around the backrest inserts a little more? Maybe build up the two outer back rest vertical panels with a layer of dacron pad to allow the cover to stretch out? Looks good otherwise.

[Mike]

are you talking of the lighter inserts aving wrinkles? id say it was probly the glue thing perhaps you sewed it ti soon try leeting it dry longer , aside i think it looks good and ill bet the customer will also.

[JuneC]

I quit gluing sew foam to vinyl for exactly that reason.  Anymore, I just edge-stitch the two layers together.  It takes a lot longer to do than glue, but I like the results a lot better.  From the pics, though, yours doesn't look all that bad.  I'd guess a little sitting on those seats and they'll not be noticeable anymore. 

June

[Mike]

i made the mistake along time ago of using a sewfoam with a fabric backing to use  as i will on just seat not where sewfoam is neede to opull the stitchihgn in nut on a barrel seat i glued the foam to the vinyl with the fabric backing away from the vinyl so i had vinyl foam then fabric backing now  when the vunyl was pulled into the insoide curvre of the seat having the fabric backing away from the vinyl dreated awful puvker , wrinkles revering the foam and gkluing the fabric backing to the vinyl solved the problem no glue would have been even better . kida on a princpal i learned in woodwoorking majing a round cabinet and layering up two layers of bending board  the inside layer is shorter.  thus causing my wrinkle

[limey]

I agree with June C and usually take keyston yellow gp spray and give the lightest mist around the edges of the vinyl panel, none on the scrim, let it sit until it barely adheres, and then sew edges. I then find that as I sew around the perimeter of the panel I can still lift and pull the vinyl to avoid "slack" in the panel and in some cases, such as where the panel is stitched to hog ring listing I will make a slit in the scrim to allow the panel to "travel" a little as it goes through the machine. "Bobbin" suggested wedge type needles, an excellent idea, reduces the chances of frayed and weakened threads, I use leather "diamond" points when working with leather and I am constantly adjusting tension, thread length, needle size etc to best suit materials. This was frowned upon when I worked in production shops years ago, but it is a luxury of working for ones self! Another habit I have that was frowned upon was foundation work. Once a seat cover has been removed, especially on pre seventies auto's, foam was in it's infancy and latex was used. The majority of European cars used latex from the 'forties on and recreating the shape of those yellow crusty and dusty pads can be a challenge. If the project allows I will use "pincore" latex to replicate seat pads, but this means much more work than using urethane foam, it is also more expensive.  I often come across seats that have been just stuffed with cotton or such, only to break down not much later. If possible, have your customer see the seat pad with cover removed and if necessary, wheedle another hour 's labor. I always find that the more time I spend working on the foundation of the seat, the less trouble I have making templates for the cover, and I generally use the rule of symmetry, dimensions are usually the  same for passenger and driver seat as well as rear seat is the same either end, although some obscure French cars have caught me out. I will rebuild seat pads as best I can, paying careful attention to edge wire, broken springs and broken frames. The majority of seats in American cars are substantial affairs, but Euro and Japanese where not built to last I am afraid to say. Generally I will rebuild a seat frame substantially stronger than original, add springs and always replace webbing. I have found that my clients are generally positive when I suggest "improving" seats, after all, nothing is worse than spending a day driving in an uncomfortable seat. Excuse me if I am being a "windbag" recovering from surgery so bored out of my mind!

[bobbin]

Man, I clicked on your picture and thought to myself, "what's wrong with that seat, it looks great!".  I knew I'd have to read the thread and when I went back I saw the wrinkles on the lighter panels.  I know squat about gluing sewfoam to vinyl but can relate it to making floorcloths... if the canvas is creased before it's primed there is no way to remove the creases!

I see the wrinkles on a second look, but it looks really nice (and I'm pretty fussy about that sort of thing).  Would heat do anything or only make things worse? 

[RocketmanMH1]

Thanks to everyone who took the time to make a suggestion, and thanks for the

complements as well.  I took the side listings back off and a little steam helped.  The

customer drove up as I was putting in the last hog ring, He was elated. I guess my wife is

right in saying that  99% of customers don't see 99% of the things that I don't like in a

job.  I just have a tendency to beat myself up over every little thing. Gotta stop doing that,

But  seriously I don't think anything less than 100% will do and that's the way I look at

every job.  I would appreciate it very much if some of you would describe in detail the way

you use the sew foam for each application, for instance, I put glue(top n trim) on both the

sew foam( foam side up scrim down) and the vinyl. After that I placed within 3 min. the

panels together. Drew my face patterns on, then sewed around my layout and then sewed

inside the first line by 1/4 to make it easy to get in the machine. Is there any thing wrong

with the way I did this? could I be trapping solvent in between the foam and vinyl?  How

long do you guys wait before sewing the panels together ? 

[DCAutoUpholstery]

I never glue vinyl, cloth, or leather to sew foam because it causes the wrinkles that you are talking about.  Just practice sewing the perimeter only.  It takes a little while to master it but the extra effort will be will worth it.  After years of doing it I can sew a panel to sew foam in under 30 seconds.  By the way great job on the seat, it looks great!

[Mike]

I guess my wife is

right in saying that  99% of customers don't see 99% of the things that I don't like in a

job. 

ive found that  too and if you think youve found 100% of the things a remdied them somene can alway find somthing they dont like if they want to. ::)

[Mike]

Question on  seats like this with the pleat I used 1/2"
sewfoam
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Upholstery/MVC-560S.jpg.
But on the smooth foam on  them or on theese potion seat
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Upholstery/b232ae29.jpg
I use 1/4"  foam not sewfoam with a fabric backing.  I glue it on. With no problems. Just wondering is this what you do (June)
or am I alone

[RocketmanMH1]

Now I'm confused, I thought all foam with a fabric backing would be classified as sew foam? Did I miss the boat or what???? ??? ??? ???