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Help..thread doubling up on bobbin side JUKI-563 VIDEO

Started by UpState, January 17, 2012, 11:57:58 am

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UpState

Looking for some help with my Juki LU563. Lately and more often than not after running a stitch line with walking foot & needle up..there are (4) lines of thread on the bottom. One is actually a loop from the sewn material back down into the bobbin area and back to the sewn material. If I cut that loop it pulls right out and the machine is ready to sew again (ie both top and bottom thread feed are ready to go).

The stitch looks fine and sometimes it works fine without the thread doubling..but lately I'm seeing more of that double bottom feed.  Using 92 poly and have tried various stitch lenghts, and been up and down on the top thread resistance.

Any suggestions?

Ed

UPDATE: Here is a video, the audio must have bled in from the electric motor and I need to do some sewing on my work clothes ;D but the video demonstrates my problem.

http://youtu.be/2zD9si5n-IU


Also:  I have the manual for the Juki 562/563 in pdf if anyone needs a copy.


bobbin

Try moving the handwheel a little bit more and watch to see that the take up is at the highest point in its cycle.  Sometimes if you make sure that take up is just starting to come down the "extra" thread will be eliminated.  Make sense?

I had a 562 for several years and I found it to be a great machine but in general, a bit cranky and fussy.  If I didn't hold the threads on take off it would gag up.  If I didn't monkey with the position of the take up it would leave me hauling out extra thread (the way you are).  So, your problem is not an isolated issue.  Try playing around with manipulating the position of the take up and see if that doesn't help. 

UpState

January 17, 2012, 06:53:35 pm #2 Last Edit: January 18, 2012, 06:24:25 am by UpState
Quote from: bobbin on January 17, 2012, 04:02:28 pm
Try moving the handwheel a little bit more and watch to see that the take up is at the highest point in its cycle.  Sometimes if you make sure that take up is just starting to come down the "extra" thread will be eliminated.  Make sense?

I had a 562 for several years and I found it to be a great machine but in general, a bit cranky and fussy.  If I didn't hold the threads on take off it would gag up.  If I didn't monkey with the position of the take up it would leave me hauling out extra thread (the way you are).  So, your problem is not an isolated issue.  Try playing around with manipulating the position of the take up and see if that doesn't help.  


bobbin

Thanks for the suggestion...not really sure about the "take up adjustment"...BUT..I do have the manual and will study that portion again tomorrow. The problem with the manual is that someone that doesn't speak English as their native language wrote it...not trying to be critical....but the manual is hard to follow on occasion.

Ed

RocketmanMH1

I have a 563 and a 1508 and when removing my material from the machine my technique is..... finish the last stitch and lift the foot with the needle up, roll the handwheel toward me until the thread slips off the little arm pointing toward the hook on the bobbin case keeper( for lack of proper term)  at that time pull the material out and at the same time roll the handwheel back just enough that it feels free...er. 

Do this....... so you can watch the machine work and you will see what i am talking about.  Take a scrap pc of material and line it up with the right side of the throat plate.  Start your stitch and run 10 or 12 st. now open the trap door and turn the hand wheel by hand very slowly, watch this over and over until it soaks in,  just dont get the finger in there. If you watch closely you can see the whole process happen and will have a better understanding of what happens under there.  If this doesn't help I would step up on BOTH thread tensions just a bit. 

Hope this helps,  Mike

UpState

RocketmanMH1

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try that technique you mentioned...but feel that the thread will already be looped at that point. 

The Juki for all pratical purposes is "new"..it was in GOVT storage for many years when I found it, it has 100% of it's paint, looks brand new etc. Wondering if that might have something to do with the problem..ie needs initial setup?

First thing I did was lube it up..then started sewing. I haven't used it much but plan to in the near future. It was working great..but recently the lower thread problem started.

You mention "both thread tensions"...I'm aware of the top tension...but wondering if the bobbin tension can be adjusted?

Also: The manual doesn't explain how the bobbin is positioned ie thread lead on the right or left when dropped in! FYI: I tried it both ways..makes no difference.

Last Summer I made a motorcycle seat and some nylon straps without problems, haven't changed a thing, so I suspect that it's a minor adjustment.

Ed

RocketmanMH1

Yes your bobbin tension can be adjusted,   sew a few stitches in a scrap pc. like I recommended earlier, open the door over the hook, rotate the hand wheel slowly toward you, when the point of the hook is in the rear look at the side of the bobbin case facing you. You will see a small darker colored metal tab with two screws  in it, the one to your right  side holds the tensioner in place it needs to be tight, as in not loose. The screw on your left is a slotted screw that is very easy to lose if you back it out with the bobbin case still in the machine, it is designed to have a bite all the time without bottoming out, to loosen the bobbin thread you would turn this screw counter cw, I recommend only turning this screw 2 to 4 degrees at a time then sew a few stitches to see the results, to tighten the thread you would go cw. You can change both tensions to give the desired results for diff materials,  if you go from heavy to light material you need to pay close attention to the thread. I would recommend spending a couple of hours getting familiar with the adjustments,  IT WILL SAVE YOU LOTS OF HEADACHES IN THE FUTURE.     Any more questions just ask   


Mike

RocketmanMH1

Almost forgot, the bobbin thread is recommended to come off the bobbin in a counter clockwise direction when the bobbin is loaded into the machine.

Mike

UpState

Mike

Really appreciate the info, I tried a few things today and even removed the hook to be sure it was clean.  The bad news is that I broke the Bobbin Lever (as in the picture) trying to give it a little pressure.  Ordered another..so it should be here in a couple of days.   

It seems that the needle thread hooks then wraps around & over the rotary hook, then snags on that bobbin lever because it won't pull through?

Do you think it might be a good idea to buy another complete rotary hook? They aren't that expensive and wondering if it might be a good idea to have one available anyway?

In any event...I'm down for a couple of days. Searching this forum..it appears that 95% of the Juki LU-562/563 setup problems are in the bobbin area.

Thanks for the tips..I'm printing them out for my Juki reference materail folder.

Ed




RocketmanMH1

Ed, I think from what you are telling me you may have a small timing issue, the bobbin case opener should have plenty of adjustment room in that slot. Unless you are running a very large thread, it takes a very small gap for the thread to pass through. When you get your case opener and install it you should leave it loose and run the hook through a cycle and stop when the bobbin opener gets to the full swing of its motion, push the lever back and let it touch the bobbin case, now with a firm but subtle touch of your finger swing the bobbin case ccw until it is back as far as it will go,hold it there, now very carefully wiggle the case opener until there is about a half of a millimeter gap between the opener and bobbin case then tighten the opener down very snug but dont crank it down.  Now thread the machine and try it very carefully, you may have to try this adjustment more than once to get it right. If I were you I would see about getting a well known sewing machine mechanic to give that machine the once over, unless youre like me and just cant let anyone else work on your stuff. Well im no expert but I do all my own work on my machines, if you need anything else just ask, also there are two great machine guys on this forum and maybe more that I'm sure will help if you ask.  I'll also help if I can.  Good luck.


Mike

RocketmanMH1


UpState

Quote from: RocketmanMH1 on January 19, 2012, 09:04:55 am
Ed, Just wanted to see if you got my pm.


Yes Sir...can't wait until the parts arrive so I can get going again.


Really appreciate you taking the time...


Ed

UpState

Quote from: RocketmanMH1 on January 18, 2012, 09:21:31 pm
Ed, I think from what you are telling me you may have a small timing issue, the bobbin case opener should have plenty of adjustment room in that slot. Mike

Mike

RE: Timing

Just to be clear,  turning the hand wheel towards me the needle should go to it's lowest point.  Then I continue until it lifts about 3/32".  At that position the hook point should be centered on the needle.

The needle hole should also be about 1/16" below the hook point.

The needle guide should be as close to the needle as possible without touching it. (stabilizes needle as it pierces material)

Question:  How close is the hook to the needle as it passes?

Thanks
Ed


RocketmanMH1

Adjust the hook as close as pos. without touching the needle.