tight screws

[kodydog]

Genes post made me think... You sure those arn't reverse thread? ???

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Genes post made me think... You sure those arn't reverse thread? ???

No. 

[scottymc]

GUNPOWDER 8)

[Mike8560]

Genes post made me think... You sure those arn't reverse thread? ???

No. 

No your not sure ?

[byhammerandhand]

you might also try a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid as a penetrating agent
http://www.askthebuilder.com/January_13_2010_Newsletter_And_Tips.shtml#Removing_Rusted_Bolts

and be sure to use a snug fitting screw driver to keep from buggering up the slots

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Genes post made me think... You sure those arn't reverse thread? ???

No. 

No your not sure ?

Sorry, was working on something, and was pulled away fast. 

No as in I'm sure they are not reverse threaded.

If you need to get take up crank's set screws out, usually there is one with a hole in the shaft and a pin that goes through the crank threaded, with a nipple on the end that goes through the hole.  The other is a shorter screw with a flat on it.  Sometimes, this can be a two man job; one to hold the hand wheel, the other to turn the screw.  Depends on how you are able to stabilize the machine so the machines resting on it's face.

Putting on block of some sort against the front of the arm usually does it as the machine is now face down, and on a table you can get your body over it.  Secret number one; you have to have a good screw driver with a real handle on it.  It has to fit the entire slot, and fit almost snug, no side to side slop.  Often, we'll shape the screwdriver head to fit the screw head, making it a custom jobber, that usually always finds another job after.  Some are better than others, and have honed their skills like a blacksmith at doing this.  Me, I'm not so good but I can do what I have to.  Get over on top, put your body weight into it, and, if possible, get screw driver with a square shaft, or at least a small square knob below the handle (not the top) so you can get an adjustable wrench onto the screwdriver to get extra torque.  That was secret number two, if you don't do it already now.  My Dad was the best at all of the kind of stuff, and he ALWAYS had a way to get stuff like this accomplished.  I've seen some pretty damn creative, nearly off the wall things he did over the years with this sewing equipment.

[Mike8560]

Nks
I hope I never have to change  o o e

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Nks
I hope I never have to change  o o e

Hpfly me, t o o!@#

[Mojo]

Those screws may have been put in with loctite. If they did use loctite they probably used the blue grade. If they used the red grade heat will be your best friend. Either way I would apply heat before beating the snot out of it.

As Greg stated, the bearing and bushing clearances on some of these machines is very, very small. What fits one machine may not and probably wont fit another.

I have the opposite problem. I have a bloody screw on the cam coming loose on my machine and I am going to have to clean out the oil with alcohol and then thread the screw back in with blue loctite. I always knew I had a screw loose. ....... ;D ( no comment from you Greg ).......lol.....

I have tore into my machines and while they are pretty straight forward they are not easy to work on. It is like being a dentist working in a closed environment. It takes a great deal of patience and thinking ahead before dong something. The further $you get into these machines mechanisms the harder it gets. You make one minor adjustment to one thing and it can throw something else out of whack.

One of these days I am going to find a junk industrial machine and tear it completely apart. Just for the educational part of it and also for kicks and grins. As a kid I always tearing something apart just to see how it worked. :)

Chris

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Anything is possible but its not common at all for any type of threadlocker on sewing screws.  That said, threadlocker 242 never hurt a thing imo.  But not common to see this from the factory at all, but more common are really, really tight screws.

[needles eye]

Yo, cool for cats, thanks heaps, Gents, for you very kind assistance and verily the milk of human kindness.

So, a progress report, have screws soaking in Keith's magic home brew (hey great link) and am tapping gently with small hammer now and again as advised by Tejas. The threads can ferment away for a few more days with an occasional tap, and, will then torch it up and try the impact driver. There's a small plastic tube that has to be removed and replaced, for the oil supply.
The problematical screws are the one holding the back cam in, a grub screw and two other flat headed screws. Access is through the little hole that's cast into back of the machine. You have to turn the balance wheel to access the three individual screws one at a time. The access hole is not much bigger than the screwdriver. Loctite or glue or the mongolian muscle man have been there prior for sure.
The other real tight screw is in the face of the machine, that is, as illustrated in the photo captures. If it won't loosen up then that one I can butcher by bashing a new slot on the side and then tapping it out sideways.
All in all you guys have been a terrific help and you're all certainly mechanically inclined.  Again, thank you.

Mind you, am still experimenting on the donor machine before disassembling the one with the broken take up lever, and, if it is all too hard then in the final analysis will then be inclined to take Gregg's profound words to heart. Meanwhile, there's nothing like a good challenge! Cheers, super   :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf_IIbT8HGk

[NDAV8R]

I had the same situation once, only to discover there was a very small set or lock nut on the back side of the arm...you may want to check.
 
  Also if the slot gets really deformed, do want all the airplane mechanics use on beat up phillips or straight headed screws...we all have a small tub of valve grinding compound in our tool boxes. You dip the tip of the screw driver in the valve grinding compound and it really "grips" the slot and prevents slipage.

The home brew mentioned works really good by the way.

Good Luck!

Gale.

[Allan]

Chris

Another way to stop screws turning is to use nail polish on the head of the screw

Allan

[gene]

Thanks a lot Allan. I go into the store to buy pantyhose to put over the paper filter on my shop vac. The lady gives me a weird look. I mention that the pantyhose are for my vacuum cleaner. She rolls her eyes and smiles.

(Instead of vacuuming off the paper filter every time I vacuum up saw dust or every other day because of all the fabric lint, I now only vacuum off the pantyhose once every week or two.)

Now, Allen, you suggest that I go into the store and buy nail polish. What do I say when the lady gives me another weird look? "Oh, it's for tight screws."

LOL

gene

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Thanks a lot Allan. I go into the store to buy pantyhose to put over the paper filter on my shop vac. The lady gives me a weird look. I mention that the pantyhose are for my vacuum cleaner. She rolls her eyes and smiles.

(Instead of vacuuming off the paper filter every time I vacuum up saw dust or every other day because of all the fabric lint, I now only vacuum off the pantyhose once every week or two.)

Now, Allen, you suggest that I go into the store and buy nail polish. What do I say when the lady gives me another weird look? "Oh, it's for tight screws."

LOL

Nice, I get the same, we paint the oil holes on refurbished machine with red nail polish, it's great, cheap, dries fast, and is usually quaility paint. 

gene