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Mondays job

Started by fragged8, June 23, 2011, 11:47:07 am

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Mike8560

Well if the top was taller then the archthe you would need to fi down to it.
I once. Did a cruiser Inc.  80s era it ha a mid cabin so the helm was raised and the oem top swastika a sport top snapped on the window and with bows went up and snappd to the arch. The ow er wanted a taller top so I made a normal Bimini I don recall if the main bow was mounted off the arch or the window frame. (long tome ago). But it was a 3 bow bimni and the rear bow gear the arch was probly at least a foot. Above the arch. I made a rear window from the top down to the arch. As. Have done many now only down to a rear hardtop like the white silverton I did not long ago.
Thenrear camper top came off the arch to the seen  the hight there was ok. This was kind neat as you could look out back over tue arch and rear top from a standing position. Of course dockng you would need to look under the arch to see the dock backing stern in

DBR1957

Maybe some pics will help you out. Most of these come from rightboat.com

http://www.rightboat.com/

1994 360 Ambassador


1990 365


2007 S34


1988 285 Ambassador


1994 310 Ambassador

fragged8

hiya

many thanks for your input, that last pic is the one .

the bow on the front cover is higher than the arch and the back cover
drops at the same angle, thats just what i was thinking.

it's a pity the pic isn't higer res, thats the same boat as my customers too,
i was getting worried but after seeing that one i'm sure it'll be fine.

now all i need is a crash course in track installs and i'm set heheheh

thanks for that

Mike8560

The track is easy rich there is a tape that will hold it on till you screw it they have small screws that go intothe slot in the track some are Phillips others are a square  hex head   
Hold it in place and mark where you need to cut  I start at the top sticking it on then at the bends a heat fun will help I'd needed screw every 6" or so then get to the bend  bend it and put a screw in. Repeat till done.  On the screws use pressure o. The head so the tip dosent strip I. The head if it dose the screw will stick up a tad a d the kedar will not pass it 
Caulking on the track is a good idea after install

DBR1957

Here's another one that shows the headroom problem


Direct link to page
http://www.rightboat.com/Sealine-310/boat-12175640/

Use Costa track instead of Flexirail if you can get it. The recess for the screws is deeper
and the welt won't catch on the screw heads. You can also use regular #6 countersunk
flat head screws instead of the special #6 screw with a #4 square recess head that is a
must with the Flexirail. Costa is thicker and made of a softer vinyl. Almost every boat I see
with Flexirail older than 5 years has pieces broken off the track.

Important!! Determine if the arch is fiberglass, aluminum or fiberglass with aluminum
pipe wire chases. If fiberglass then sheet metal screws will work fine. If it's either of the
latter with aluminum then it's best to use machine screws and drill and tap. Also, you must
tell your customer you are not responsible for any damage to wiring in the arch. You're
working blind here and it's impossible to tell where all the wiring is. You're probably going
to drill 30 to 40 holes on each side of the arch. 6" apart is fine for across the top and down
the legs but you will need to add a few more at each corner to maintain the curve.

Putting this track on can be time consuming. I took Flexirail off the arch of a 42' Regal and
replaced it with Costa Track. Stripping off was a bear because of the foam tape Mike mentioned
before. Luckily I lined up most of the existing holes. If you drill and tap you will have the better
part of an 8 hour day installing the track. Longer if you're new to the application.

Having to heat it is dependant on the outside temperature and the radius of corners. The Regal
I just mentioned went around the corners with no problem in 55 F weather. Didn't add any heat.

fragged8

June 26, 2011, 02:51:35 am #20 Last Edit: June 26, 2011, 04:06:01 am by fragged8
thanks guys , the only problem i can see with installing track
is the arch is so rounded at the edges which could make life difficult
.screws shouldn't be a problem i have some that self tap but if you drive
them too hard the heads occasionally come off .

that pic is spot on thanks, and in their ad i'm pretty sure the front cover
has been raised as his screen looks much wider than the one i'm doing.

looking around i think the front is going to be made like a California
dodger, splitting the front panel with zippers

this is pretty much exactly what i had in mind



Peppy

On a roundy arch I run a line of tape on the arch so you can get a good eyeball on the line then but the track up to one edge. I hate screwing it into aluminum arches.  Like DBR says, it takes life times. I rivet them on now. I ground down a rivet gun nipple so it can stick into the track. Then I put my 1/8" drill bit in my drill sticking out a 1/2" from the chuck. I drill through the track, and the arch at once then when I'm through the arch I keep pushing and the chuck cuts a hole in the top of the track to let the rivet head through. Then I caulk the back and rivet it on.

I always use heat to bend it, and find it really helps to have a compressor handy to cool it down quick. I like using the 'p' kind on the inside at the back. I like the sounds of the tape. What's that about? 
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Mike8560

June 26, 2011, 09:12:25 pm #22 Last Edit: June 26, 2011, 09:15:06 pm by Mike8560
I've never used costa track only flexirail.  And sear rays mostly they used to just have the track with a flap and zipper to zip the top to. I supose the sun got to the track and all the tention was on the zipper after a while they starter snapping also there was the track on the back edge of the arch sipped to the top (no flap now ) and the top snap to the top of the aech ad the old way  the snaps took tention off thenzippers and thread. Thebcanvas now covers the track and thebtrack makes a good weatherproofing
no snaps
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Express%20cruiser%20enclosures/34SEARAY.jpg
snaps   
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy102/Mike8560/Express%20cruiser%20enclosures/100_0902.jpg
me the track alone looks sleek and trim but I like thebsnaps look better  stronger then a zip to me
and yes I've seen the track flexitrac break I didn't know it was widespread. I  seen it motly alter a hurricane and just thought it was a resullt.

DBR1957

Mike, you should try Costa Track. Much better than Flexirail.

Fragged, the Costa track comes flat backed and with a concave back.
The concave back works better to fit on rounded edge arches.

Peppy's tip of using tape to mark off the install line is a good one.

fragged8

i love the look of the sundancer Mike it's really tidy.


this is the one i have in stock Flexarail. we are very limited in
the products we can get here compared to you guys.
I cant even buy colour matched tabling here :-(


i like the tape idea i'll have to try that if i go ahead with the track,
i'm still in two minds about doing it and the customer just said
if you want to try it just go ahead :-0.

I guess i have to take the plunge sometime .

when you pattern it do you mark the high point on the side of the
track or the edge of the opening ?
the only time i've used it i put the keder strip in and pinned the fabric to
it to pattern.

Mike8560

Rich what is colur matched tabling?

Patterning. With the track l. The forward edge od the arch with the slot opening on the horizontal side I put trancer/ seam tape on the top edge ot the track   And pull my pattern from tue front bow to the track sticking it to the  tape also I almost alway slide I. Some kedar as you and then mark my dots and on the arch I Marduk the position of the kedar  along with marking and edge where I want to cut my material at the  track.
Ehat is normally done here is a flap and zipper is I serted on the tr k and the top is ziper to it   
It sound tricky. But from the pattern I will figure for my flap and zipper
you could sew a zipper onto the kedar and pattern to the zipper then remove the kedar and zipper and sew a canvas flap onto it   You can get the curved shape fit the flap but you would need to pattern the curve
The flap will need Velcro to gold it down to the top with Velcro on it also. 
This should be able to be seen on the tan sea Ray canvas
my local sea Ray dealor moved out so I havnt done one of theese for a while  now

Peppy

Sounds similar to how I do it Mike. I trace the closest track edge to the top, then Minus 1/4" to allow a little gap between the kedar and the bound fabric.

We've been doing the kedar/zipper->top with the top snaping over the track to the arch like searay does on the fronts for a while now. Works well but a pain in the ass if you ask me. On the backs we do kedar/flap/zipper->top with no snaps. It's all about water runoff. Some of the new backward arches make it really tricky. RunOFF becomes runIN on the sides. Awning rail has replaced downriggers as the main source of headaches in the last couple of years.
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fragged8

Quote from: Mike8560 on June 27, 2011, 09:12:44 pm
Rich what is colur matched tabling?



i mean the reinforcement you guys can get made from the same material
as the top. I've never seen it here.

Mike8560

June 30, 2011, 02:49:19 pm #28 Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 03:06:07 pm by Mike8560
Oh facing. I know  of one myself Tri vantage. Therefore I make my own
it is nice to have it on a roll