Antique maple side chair - all loose with broken spindles. The spindle that goes into the seat are two 45 cuts epoxied together than shaped. The top of the spindle have tapered inserts that I saw a guy do on line this way years ago. You drill out a tapered hole using tapered spade bits that you grind down to the profile. The tapered fit allows you to glue in a new spindle part without weakening the sides of the existing spindle. It works well - two sizes pictured 1/2 in. and 3/4 in. I just need to trim the top of the back rest spindle to length
This chair came in with half the foot missing when the stem caster broke sideways and the side of the foot was lost. Glued a block of walnut on - chair is rosewood but the walnut will color like rosewood and is easier to carve - almost done - a little filling to do
Awesome work Steve. You are the master.
This butcher block table came in and made up for an otherwise slow week. Forgot to take a before photo but the finish was very dirty and worn. Customer wanted the golden oak color back to match their oak windsor chairs. The one photo using the flash is the true color - golden yellow. A nice job - strip, wash, sand by machine then by hand to 150 garnet. Vacuum off and wash again with TSP. Water rinse and 5 coats of NC gloss lacquer. No stain and no rubbing necessary - finish right off the gun.
This chair came in today for an arm repair. The customer was so nervous about her antique chair. I assured her not to worry - after she left and I started to do the repair I'm looking at the side and for a second I thought I frayed the fabric but it was just pieced and she was worried about me ?
Steve, I have no doubt she will be very pleased with your work.
Generally we send repairs like this to the refinisher. I could tell the customer was on a budget so I told the customer I would give it my best shot. I don't think she was expecting to much. I spent way too much time repairing it. It was her mothers chair and was left in a barn for several years. When we delivered it she was in a back bedroom. When she came around the corner and saw the chair she started to cry tears of joy (I think).
The final looks great - no need to refinish - won't change that there were splits. Besides most refinishers aren't good woodworkers. There money is in strip and spray work. No one looks that close at antiques - they're expected to have wood variations for all the years of use.
Looks like a comfortable chair
This chair from a medical office. The frame is pressed wood - it crumbled. I cut out the broken areas and patched in some plywood. Crude repairs - but a job is a job. The sheet of synthetic webbing was stapled to the frame and some patient went right through it. The sheet goods didn't tear but the particle board collapsed
Looks like a nice lawsuit to me.
When working in a factory one day the supervisor gathered us all around. He said a lady was sitting in one of our chairs at a lawyers office and sliced her finger on a staple when for some reason she reached under the chair. She was suing the company. This thought always sticks with me when stapling the black bottom on.
These chairs don't even have a black bottom - it's open underneath. I think I will install cambric to make them keep their fingers out of there
Caught a nice job over the weekend - 8 chairs - all loose - all need reglue. Customer recovered the seats 1 year ago by laying a piece of dacron over the old seat and fabric then wrapped the stripped fabric. The covering was loose and the seat was flat. I'm using 2 inch 45 and topped with their piece of dacron. I am having a bit of a hard time reusing the fabric because the increased depth isn't leaving much to pull
I'm surprised you got the fabric back on Steve. I would turn that part down and make them get new fabric. But it looks great.
Looks good Steve. I could make a good living if all I did was dining seats. The neat thing about dining seats is the customer cannot go out and buy a whole set, table and chairs and maybe even a server or china cabinet for less than we can recover 6 or 8 chairs. Even if they all need new foam and joints fixed its still cheaper than new. I keep 1-1/2" foam just for dining seats. To me this is the perfect size.
I am always thankful for your insight and suggestions. It's amazing what you can see in a photo that I don't see in person. The fabric jockeying is a pain and there are some places where I have less than 3/4 of an inch to staple. New fabric would have been the best solution but they loved the fabric - and I am more often removing and replacing fabric to do repair work rather than new upholstery therefore in my mind this was a common course but yes your solution makes much more sense. Keep in mind - I'M NOT AN UPHOLSTERER but this job looked to be in my wheelhouse.
It was not as bad working with the stripes as I thought - in fact as I pulled in the sides the stripe helped me to align the fabric along the wood rail sides making the front to back seat height even. 1-1/2 inch foam would have been better but since the seat was plywood with no hole cut out and webbing I was thinking this is like a bench seat go with 2 inch.
After I did the first seat I sat in it and it didn't feel balanced but what I realized was I hadn't pushed the seat far enough back and this corrected the unbalanced feeling. I have the seat back a little further than the way it was when I took it apart and it's better for sitting - the look is a little different but not wrong. The seat should have been designed a little longer but how much can you be expected to correct ?
6 chairs are done and only the arm chairs remain - I need to order another sheet of foam to finish the job but my wife said why not glue all those cut off pieces together -
She is right. As long as there is Dacron on top it works. No sense in wasting the foam.
Kiss it! Keep It Simple Stupid! That is what usually works best for me. Simple and strong!
"Can I give you some advise because I'm not using it?" I use this line occasionally"
Not quite sure how to thank you Doyle :) and Gene :)
A few jobs came in at once and everyone wants their stuff back quickly. I figured let me do all the clamp up first because that will take time to dry - started at 9am - by noon no more room - we'll have to find something else to do - no Yanks today :(
I have to tighten the straps of this chair. It isn't a vintage mid century chair. I have these zip clips but they are not similar to the originals. Should I try to reuse originals - I'm thinking I can't close the clip tight enough like the factory press machine did or just staple the straps and overlay with tacking strip ?
Thanks for suggestions
I've reused them before. Pry them apart just enough to get the job done. I used my button press to pinch them back together. My press is a little more stout than the typical button press. I'm thinking a bench vise would do the same thing.
Thanks - that worked out good. keeping the little teeth straight while prying open the clip took the time. I cut off fabric on both ends of the straps before attaching the clips.
Some service calls this week plus in the shop a mahogany Buffet - private customer - falling apart from her heating system - the other job - moving damage - the cowboys dropped the D/R Table on its side
I love the gray cast iron pedestal on that table. You don't see that every day. :-)
I got two antique spindle chairs in today. I pointed out how the carving was done by hand because they weren't all the same. This could be helpful in determining how old they are. It's been in this lady's family for a few generations.
Customer calls - got my name on the internet. Her 8 D/R chairs have loose arms. The chairs are made well - at first it was not clear to me why. I promised to fix and took one to the workshop as a test before she will authorize all of them. I opened the side and the bolt was loose - nothing broken. Two things I realized after playing around with this job. First it's easier to open the bottom and reach my hand up to get to the bolts because when I put it back I don't have to be as accurate - it's not a show area. Second whoever upholstered the chairs left each arm slightly loose to slip the fabric behind the arm figuring the thickness of fabric would ensure a tight connection. How lazy is that ? The arms are solid now - hope to deliver back today and get the rest of the chairs.
Quote from: SteveA on April 12, 2019, 05:10:00 am
Second whoever upholstered the chairs left each arm slightly loose to slip the fabric behind the arm figuring the thickness of fabric would ensure a tight connection. How lazy is that ?
For an amateur making that cut to wrap the fabric around the arms can be nerve racking. Cut it a little to deep or too far forward or too far back and your screwed. And if you don't make the cut deep enough you'll have a wrinkled mess. This is why I chuckle every time someone says I could just do it myself.
Also, I just noticed your Photo Bucket links have been working really good lately. They pop right up.
I think the shop that did the job were pros but lazy or had someone doing the back panels who didn't want to ask someone senior if this way works. Once all the decorative nails are hammered in no one wants to make the correction. I've been there cutting around arms and it always makes me nervous -
Yes photobucket has been working well lately. There's a new platform that's improved and you're not held up by a million adds when you try to post a photo. There are occasions when the site is on lock down as they update but overall - working great !
I got the job to do the rest of the chairs. $ 80.00 each but now that I have a routine it's easier work. Go from the bottom outside backrest - tighten the bolts with a 4mm allen wrench - the other service who tried to repair must have used standard fractional size wrenches and could not torque down the bolt enough. 2 more done this morning 5 more to go.
"now that I have a routine it's easier work"
I know that feeling well. I've realized that I enjoy the process of finding out the routine more than actually doing the routine. I realized that when I know exactly what I need to do to finish the other 8 or 12 chairs, or whatever it is, I feel a bit bored and less challenged knowing that it will be routine.
I do feel a relief that the unknown is known, and the end is in sight. Such as I know I have enough fabric, enough decorative nails, how to tighten loose joints as you did, Steve.
That's just me. I'm sure other folks feel differently about it.
Quote from: gene on April 14, 2019, 08:29:42 pm
I realized that when I know exactly what I need to do to finish the other 8 or 12 chairs, or whatever it is, I feel a bit bored and less challenged knowing that it will be routine.
Agreed, when I get down to the last 1 or 2 chairs I get an anxious feeling. This is especially true when doing 20 or 30 church pews. The first one always takes longer and then I wonder if I bid the job right. Each one gets easier and faster as I get my routine down. What a relief when I finish the last one and all that is left is to clean up.
The D/R table is finished. Spot repair - not refinishing - it's difficult to notice unless you really go looking for it. The finish on top blended nicely - it's going out tomorrow and I'm glad it took up my table saw for two weeks.
Looks good Steve.
Dang Steve, you could do this for a living. :)
Thanks for the nice words - you're right we almost make a living at this trade. My compressor has been in the shop 2 weeks - new gaskets, value kit and rings - easy come easy go - customers don't think we have expenses. I dropped the table at the warehouse this morning - they all came out to give their two cents - it did look decent even in the day light. They were happy they saved a refinishing bill.
These chairs were finished up on Sat but one issue I won't overlook again are the wood edges where the decorative nails are attached. Seems inevitable that edges will be cracked from a long line of nail heads piercing the grain along the same line. I had to reglue 6 of the 8 chairs on their edges in the same place before I could reinstall the nail heads. Next time I will add on a few bucks automatically -
This customer has a very large home - the D/R Table is about 15 feet long. Antique barn wood and the leaves are badly cracked. They want the cracks eliminated. I suggested to make straight cuts on the table saw and cut away the cracks - this would make the leaf 4 inches less wide. They didn't want to loose the width - I don't like to fill in cracks because who knows what additional movement will do but the customer said the cracks were like that for years and there hasn't been any new movement. The cracks are from an inappropriately applied bread board edge. I filled with expoxy 3/32nd below level and final fill with water putty - this way I could easily sand without going into the existing color. I also sealed the underside with amber shellac. Touch up the fills with blendals, shellac, and satin lacquer. This was a test to see how they like the result. There are 5 more leaves to do.
Nice, the cracks are gone.
Old grandfather clock - todays job - new bottom - new bottom back rail - and make one new back leg that was missing. The woodworking is done - just need to stain + put clear shellac
My old IR pooped out and the repair shop couldn't get the parts. Although after market parts are available the repair shop can't warranty their work using those parts. The repair was going to be expensive and for a few hundred dollars more I got a new one. 3 HP - single stage - I wanted double stage but my electric wouldn't carrier that. Went from 30 gallon to 60 gallon - smallest tank they make - probably will go off very seldom unless I'm painting with the spray gun. Today I have to reconfigure the pipes - the funny thing is this compressor valve is pointed down so water can't run back into the tank - I will need a ball valve at the low point. Of course my Wife saw this new machine and said it's not necessary my irresponsible arthritic old man whose almost retired but what can I sell it for when you're gone.
Nice Steve. Top of the line.
My neighbor who is a contractor came over to help me with the pipes. The brass valve from the compressor points downward so we had to create a drip leg for water to drain if need be. Anchored to the floor with tap cons and pipe strap over the legs. It's good to go finally.
Went to a site - complaint was a big chip to the formica laminate at the base left side. I asked the customer if I could take a piece from the back - they said have at it. Cut out a section and overlayed the piece on top of the broken area.
I have an old Bulls Eye Mirror in for repair. It fell off the wall because the upper section disjointed from the lower. Nothing broken including the convex glass but there will be a lot of gilding retouching and gesso filling to make it look uniform again. I have it glued up and clamped -
I took this motor off the old compressor. The tank and the pump was shot. Anyway I see it has a black and a white wire - the amps are 15 - 3400 rpm - but 3 HP. Do you think this can run on 110 if I put on a regular plug ? It was running on 220 before
39 years ago I made this horse for my Daughter's first Birthday. It's been up in the attic for about 35 years. This weekend we took it down because my Wife is watching the neighbors Son. My Grandson is still too small for this Horse. Anyway if anyone remembers Constantines in the Bronx - I was there three times a week buying materials. I loved the place and was depressed when they closed because internet sales weren't available yet. The horse plans came from Constantines. I used construction lumber - made a few betterment's, than the plan offered. Dark walnut wiping stain - satin lacquer. Man time is passing like crazy and I wish Contantines was still around - I think they still have an outlet in Florida - maybe it's the Brother or Cousin - I've never purchased anything from them in Florida. In the Bronx warehouse they had a rosewood room - a veneer room - upholstery supplies - anything you could think of. What a place - gone but not forgotten - the owner Glen was a great guy.
Nice job Steve, did you also do the carvings?
Yes it's all low relief carving. The head, tail and hoofs. The saddle was a separate assembly . When it was new it looked like a million dollars. The kids really wore it out. I will have to refinish it. The rockers I laminated with 1/4 oak to strengthen. The only thing I would do different is not attached the legs with through dowels - they'd be hidden.
Caught a nice little job for today and maybe a new account. Recommendation from the moving company. Veterans Hospital in the Bronx - a design firm from Dallas is doing over all the rooms. They called and asked if I could fill in cracks in H/Bs that the patients use in the rooms when they stay over night. The lady in charge was super. I showed her my Trump card and she said " how did you know? "
Texas right ! Anyway I did 4 repairs - done by 11:30am and they want to know if they can call me again. Heck yea -
How do you fill in the cracks and match the stain? Are these cracks all the way through? Do you do anything to keep the cracks from happening again?
"cracks in H/Bs that the patients use in the rooms when they stay over night"
Do all Veterans Hospitals have free porn channels or is that just the Veteran Hospitals in the Bronx?
"I showed her my Trump card"
And if Hillary had won the election you would have shown your Hillary card. Even though all those government bids are sealed by law, it is amazing how the winners all voted for whoever the president is at the time of the bidding.
I hope it turns out to be a good source of repeat business.
I missed a good opportunity to take a photo for the web site this year. Last year I was working in sports center and that was the photo for my favorite job put on the web site. After I left the Fisher house I realized I should have taken a photo with one of those big bronze statues of a General past. Anyway I will be back there for my photo shoot the next time furniture needs repair.
I filled the cracks with Duhrams water putty. I mixed it heavy and stiff to fill the holes in one pass. I had with me the heat gun and a fan. It took one hour for the filler to dry with me using the heat gun and fan to dry. The putty dried white which was what I wanted for the white wash finish blend. Before it fully cured I washed off the over fill with a damp rag so there was no sanding to do and chance making the repaired area bigger than it needed to be. When the fill was dry I touched up with white lacquers and sprayed white and antique white lacquer over the crack to blend everything. It looked good but I forgot to take a photo for the after repair - I was too busy hugging the gal from Texas and thanking her for the work. She was my kind of people -
Will it crack again ? - who knows what wood wants to do. I'm guessing it shrunk as much as it's going to shrink and it should look good for a long time. The rooms are beautiful. The service members are invited to stay there while they are being treated even with their Families in tow. The rooms are as nice as the best hotels. There are all sorts of dining rooms, TV lounges, meeting areas - etc. - the whole 9 yards and they deserve it for sure.
I have voted Democrat in the past - for instance Como is doing a good job but Hilary I didn't trust and for years everyone said these politicians are the worst - we need a business man in the White House. Now we got one - I voted for him and no one can stand him here in NY. I hope Trump wins another term and then Pence is President for 8 years after that .
The movers called me to the warehouse this morning - broken leg and going out today - the guys tried to glue it but it didn't hold. The break was very uneven so I had to glue the break together then cut across the leg so I would have a good view and flat surface to drill the dowel. Epoxy - 3/8ths dowel - good and strong. The break is below where I cut across the bead and the dowel goes 2 inches deeper then the original break
Nice job Steve. Fixing a botched glue job sucks. I have an antique Queen Ann chair on the bench with a curved front that has a big split going across it. It looks like the last person just squirted some glue in there but didn't use a clamp. Now it looks like a split with a bunch of glue in it. The customer didn't say anything about fixing it. I'm going to leave it alone because my skills would end up making it look worse.
The hole looks bigger than the dowel. Is this correct and do you do this to be able to match the two parts together if your holes are not plumb with each other? And then you fill the holes with epoxy? Thanks for your comments on how you fixed the headboard.
Gene if you were my shop teacher I'd never get the gold star :) - the hole wasn't bigger but the entry point was skewed. Since I was working in the warehouse without the luxury of my shop conditions - I would call it rough repairs. The holes weren't misaligned because I used dowel centers - and drilled with a brad point bit - the holes were perfectly aligned. However after drilling in one inch I backed out the bit and inserted the dowel to see how straight I was going. Not to straight...... so I tipped over the bit to get back on target. It widened the entry hole - It happened on both the sawed off leg and the part attached to the case. However only the neck or entry was sloppy because as I got on track the majority of the hole was the correct diameter. The dowel was 5 inches long and provided a good firm connection even without glue. Epoxy does forgive all sins and it certainty filled in the sloppy entry holes on both sides. I also needed the repair to dry fast so yellow glue was out. As to fit - when I can't perfectly center the dowel for whatever reason I will drill the hole one size bigger and rely on the epoxy to make up the difference - there is nothing wrong with that except it's only worthy of the bronze star -
My neighbor a contractor has to replace 4 floor boards that were water damaged. It is prefinished veneer flooring. He took solid red oak and dimensioned the lumber and asked me to put color and finish. When I put the stain over the red oak it was way too dark. I wound up bleaching the 4 boards and then stained to match the existing board color with the crack through it. Oak has many shades in it's natural state because only one matched perfect the others have less pink showing - all had the exact same treatment - but good enough where they will blend into an older floor. The bleached photo is when they are layed over the wood dowels. There's one board pictured that shows the red oak without bleach
Steve, do you ever come up with an idea and say, boy I hope this works? Or have you been at it long enough to know it will. Your fixes sometimes amaze me.
Will it work ? I ask myself that all the time. What I'm good at now at this age is being able to know why things didn't go as planned. Whether I will completely redo any job or just adjust it is another story. After seeing that only one board really matched well (the sample with the crack in it) I went back to look at the two oak boards they left me far right in photo. The two on the right are different - one is more pink and that is why only one matched perfect. His customer will be happy to have anything that is even close and these stained boards are close enough. To redo I would have to wash off the finish and color and slightly sand through the bleached surface to expose more natural wood before re-staining. Or I would tell the contractor to make me new pieces out of the boards that have the pink cast only. He won't do that because the floor overall is older and worn so no one is looking that close at these few replacement boards. The other issue is that the board the contractor gave me was slightly off the true color because of the water damage. I hadn't seen the floor myself but I'm sure the board he brought me to match had more color before it was water damaged. I'll ask him to snap a few photos after it's repaired so I can post the photos here of the completed job.
The contractor installed the planks - he said the clients were very happy. To me they didn't match close enough. I offered to go there and blend the color a bit and the contractor said Steve your too particular. They are good enough and the customer was happy. I think with a light mist coat of cherry color lacquer from a rattle can it would have blended the color together. On to the next job - I can't shake the disappointment of not making the color perfect - I need a beer !
Just finished up this scale - old Troemner pharmaceutical scale. It is mine - bought at a tag sale for $ 10.00 because the black glass was broken. I glued it back together for a template. The local glazier made the glass and drilled the holes - cost me $ 50.00. - I painted the underside black and taped off the viewing area for the see through and fitted some new screws and filed down some parts that were too tight. I'm not going to refinish the wood - it looks decent - more junk I have to find a place for lol
Looking to make a little extra cash on the side there Steve. Cool find.
I'll have to weight the benefits vs keeping it lol
Steve said---"I took this motor off the old compressor. The tank and the pump was shot. Anyway I see it has a black and a white wire - the amps are 15 - 3400 rpm - but 3 HP. Do you think this can run on 110 if I put on a regular plug ? It was running on 220 before
No! On smaller motors there is a chance that they can be wired for 110 or 220. there will be a diagram on the side of the motor or the inside of the wiring box cover if it can be rewired. I have never seen a 3 horse like that though.
Just finished up this Trunk. Metal, and wood. The inside had paper glued to the walls and it was moldy - I removed the paper, bleached the wood - washed with TSP and put it in direct sunlight for two days followed by seal coat of shellac. I recolored the wood ribs, wire brush the rust from the metal - black rustoleum for the skin - and bronze gold pigments for the head of the studs, new key, and new side straps, - seal with satin lacquers
I was wondering why some trunks had a domed top. So I looked it up.
Wow, that thing was a mess. Looks great now.
Gene you're 100 percent right - these trunks do not have resale value even after restoration. This one was handed down in the Family - the lock says yr. 1886.
In the dome were built in compartments and most of the shelving was gone and I didn't replace it just squared it off. I told the client $ 600.00 and he was very pleased to have it done.
One thing I can tell you these trucks are built like a brick S*^# house. Very well made - even the pins for the hinges and the lock assembly pin had rivets drilled in the back so you could not easily slide the pins out.
Great craftsmanship that you'll never see again
I bought this 3 drawer file cabinet a few weeks ago at an estate sale for $ 50.00. I wanted it for myself - I really am partial to oak / my Wife put it in the spare room like it was a high night table. I forgot to take a before picture but it was nasty and wobbly. Glued it back together - oxalic acid treatment - dark oak dye stain - two coats of varnish brushed on. Wondering what to put in it ?
I hate designer finishes. I have to make this table a dark gray color. Not realizing when I picked it up it was teak wood under a dark brown stain. I stripped + sanded it - still too brown for a gray color so I bleached it with two part bleach - still saw brown coming through - then mist coat of bleachtone dye and finally the surface was even and light - applied one coat of wiping stain (gray) and a top coat of the same stain spraying it with some brown universal colorants van dyke to get closer to the sample. Way too much time for this job and since I don't do these finishes often there is a lot of stress - give me antiques to refinish any day
That's a huge amount of work, Steve. Turned out great.
Here's the final color and finish. Got as close to the sample as I could. The designer said it was fine - the color didn't have to be perfect but a dark gray was important. The sample was oak with a white glaze in the grain. I had my hands full with this teak wood. Anyway it's pretty close considering all the variables - the sample is on the top of the table - small 3 inch x 1 inch piece from the curtain store.
That's a ton of work. I've never worked with teak but I hear it can be difficult.
This is the kind of job where you want to make sure the customer knows the finished project will be "close enough" - no mulligans. :-)
The issue with teak is that it's oily. You worry about the oil not allowing your finish coats to dry. I've read that after stripping and scrubbing with a product like TSP it is wise to wash coat the wood before staining or finishing with acetone. I didn't use an oil stain and after staining I sealed with 2 spit coats of shellac. The final color was a brownish black glaze - japan colors - followed by clear lacquer.
Delivering it tomorrow - I sent the designer a photo today and she was pleased. Inspection today - no oil showing through - hope it holds
The natural light at the end of the day is the best. Just before loading into the truck for tomorrow's delivery