I am trying to use a Yamata FY5318 walking foot sewing machine. It's a nice machine, but the LOML's grip as well as mine is how difficult it is to get the bobbin in and out of the machine.
So....I figure that I'll have to take the machine apart, grind off some of the metal arm that is mostly in the way of the bobbin so we can get the bobbin in and out of the machine without cussing and fussing for an hour.....then later on, buy a better machine.
If you were looking for a used machine, what would it be? Remember, the sky is NOT the limit on price. I'm looking to keep it under $1500.
I just completed this exercise in February.
My suggestion is to look hard at the Consew 206 rb 5 or the Chandler 406RB. Both are basically the same machine and are work horses. They will sew anything you put under them.
The other great deal with these is the parts are plentiful and cheap.
I did a ton of research, talked to a lot of stitchers as well as a few dealers and decided on my Chandler. Probably the biggest thing that helped me with my choice was Bob Kovar ( Toledo Machine on this forum ). Bob spent a great deal of time on the phone with me helping me understand the differences between each machine I was looking at. It took me a week and several phone calls of bugging Bob and I finally decided on the Chandler. I have never been sorry as this machine has been everything he said it would be.
The bobbin is easily accessible and I myself have no problems reaching under and grabbing it as well as loading it back into the machine.
What ever you select I strongly urge you to spend a few extra dollars and get the servo motor. You will love it and it will make sewing much easier for you.
When you get closer to buying I highly recommend that you contact Bob and talk to him about machines. He is very laid back, easy going and pleasant to talk with.
Greg is also a dealer on here ( Keystone ) and has a large inventory. He has sold several Highleads to guys on here and they all like them.
I caution you to stay clear of the dealers on E-Bay. You will never get the same level of service that you would from Bob & Bobby or Greg. ( Been there and done the e-bay sewing machine gig ). :)
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you out Dennis ( besides writing you a check. :)
Chris
Before you start grinding try using a magnet to extract the bobbin when it is empty.
Dave
I have always preferred a horizontal axis bobbin (loads from below), a holdover from my years in the ragbiz. I absolutely love my Juki 1541N-7. My machine has all the automatic stuff and was more than $1500, but the basic model is available in your price range. If you prefer a machine with a vertical axis bobbin (loads from the top) you can't go wrong with the 1508. I use one daily at my employer's shop and it's a great machine.
I also regularly use a Consew 255RB and like that one, too. But the Jukis allow a greater stitch length and it's easier to adjust the length... a dial, none of the button, eccentric crap!
Quote from: wind_rose_2 on September 09, 2010, 11:18:43 am
Before you start grinding try using a magnet to extract the bobbin when it is empty.
Dave
Dave,
I bought the machine used, well, it was bought new and used for 1 week and then it sat for a year, then I came along and bought it. It's almost as if the bobbin casing is a tad too big for the space.
OK....here's a pic or 2.....
Here's my machine:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg69%2Fsawdustar%2FUpholstery%2Fth_DSCF3606.jpg&hash=14b1e8272a7c6c5e4ae0e467e23b6f7d) (http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/sawdustar/Upholstery/?action=view¤t=DSCF3606.jpg)
Then here's a shot at the bobbin side:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg69%2Fsawdustar%2FUpholstery%2Fth_DSCF3608.jpg&hash=a2d69e102bc4c42dbf732a62f97195ad) (http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/sawdustar/Upholstery/?action=view¤t=DSCF3608.jpg)
And here's a closer shot at the bobbin spot:
(https://forum.upholster.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi53.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg69%2Fsawdustar%2FUpholstery%2Fth_DSCF3612.jpg&hash=2187cc71640733223283abf05f3be480) (http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/sawdustar/Upholstery/?action=view¤t=DSCF3612.jpg)
Notice the metal arm that is ever so slightly blocking the bobbin from coming straight out of the socket where the bobbin sits. It's as difficult to get OUT as it is to get IN.
I'm baffled by this ordeal as to why it's so difficult to put in and take out a bobbin..!!!! ???
If you've got $1500 to spend, you should have no problem getting all the machine you need. The Chandlers and Highleads come in around a grand. The Juki 1541 is around $1500. The Consews are somewhere in between.
Used machines are a crapshoot, unless you buy a rebuilt one from a reputable dealer, such as Bob or Gregg. But rebuilt ones aren't that much less than a new one.
Sawdustar, my machines' bobbins all load the way your Yamato does. It does feel "fiddly" and a bit sticky when you first begin using the machine. But you will develop a "feel" for it. You learn to put the bobbin in rotated a bit to the left and then you turn it clockwise until it clicks into place. You can feel it and you can hear the click.
If you find it too much of pain, then I suggest you look at vertical axis machines. They load from the top; the Juki 1508 has a large bobbin that easily drops in from the top. Wonderful machine!
I really can't comment too far, as a year from now is a long time away, and things are subject to change. That said, $1,500 will get about as far as you need, these days.
Sawdustar,
I like the Pfaff machines. We have four of them, a Pfaff 130, Pfaff 138, Pfaff 545 and a Pfaff 1245. I understand they are expensive to repair when they break but I haven't had one break yet and the Pfaff 130 has been around since the 1950's. I wouldn't be surprised if it probably sewed a few poodle skirts as well as sails.
I really like the Pfaff 1245. The machine is a beast and it keeps on going without giving us any trouble no matter what type of material we throw at it. $1500.00 should get you one in the current market. Maybe even less.
Our other machines are Singers. A 31-15, a 111W153, a 112W145 double needle and a 211G151. I'm really partial to the 111Wxxx series of Singers. They came into being around the 1940's, some the 50's, and they sew better now than they did when they were new. No, they don't have a reverse, but once you get past that little obstacle you'll find they are really decent machines.
I have nothing against Juki. They're fine machines, as are many others. The older Consew's are good but I've read the newer ones are made in China and some of the gears are plastic. Somebody please tell me that's not true!
Avoid all Ebay machines unless you can go tests drive it first, and even then take a sewing machine expert with you! Good deals can be found on Craigslist near where ever you live but, again, take the sewing machine expert with you.
Good luck in your search... Even if a year from now.
Jim
Just a note to those who are using Juki machines. I really like that stitch length dial over the old, "hold down a button and turn the handwheel" setup, but I was having a hard time (especially in the winter, when my fingers are dry) turning that small, hard plastic dial. I finally found that the large (1-1/2") white rubber leg tips sold in Home Depot (sold two to a pkg. so you have a spare if you ever need it :)) fits right over the dial and by marking the most common stich lengths (I have S, M and L on mine) with a sharpie marker, it's a breeze to quickly dial in the stitch length you want.
Rich
Quote from: bobbin on September 09, 2010, 04:10:13 pm
Sawdustar, my machines' bobbins all load the way your Yamato does. It does feel "fiddly" and a bit sticky when you first begin using the machine. But you will develop a "feel" for it. You learn to put the bobbin in rotated a bit to the left and then you turn it clockwise until it clicks into place. You can feel it and you can hear the click.
If you find it too much of pain, then I suggest you look at vertical axis machines. They load from the top; the Juki 1508 has a large bobbin that easily drops in from the top. Wonderful machine!
Bobbin.....
I don't mean it's "fiddly" to get it in and out.....I mean it's almost impossible. We have two other sewing machines here in the house...not industrial, and they are bottom loaders and we have no issue with those.
I am sure that if I ground away about 1/16" of steel at the lower elbow that is directly in front of the bobbin that it would go in AND out without a single issue. But, in your defense, I'll keep working with it and see if it gets any better.
Just in case, Dennis, are you rotating the machine to line up the marks on the upper pulley?
Mike
Quote from: 206RB on September 10, 2010, 07:32:49 am
Just in case, Dennis, are you rotating the machine to line up the marks on the upper pulley?
Mike
I'm not paying any attention to the pulleys, I'm just rotating until that "arm" is far enough out of the way to let me fuss with it for a while until I can get the bobbin out and then back in again. Last time it took me 25 minutes just to get the bobbin out and another one back in. On our other sewing machines this normally takes less that 10 seconds.
That arm that is in your way. Is that part of the feed dog mechanizm? Try setting stitch length to max and then rotate the drive pulley to see if it clears.
Few things here;
That feed carrier is in the way; just how it is on some bottom loaders. Juki DNU-1541 corrects this, and as long as the needle is not in the way, you can remove and insert bobbin.
New Consew...yes, most models are made in China, but NO plastic gears on thier industrial model machines. A lot of machines come from China today, including the new Pfaff 1245.
Old Consews were made by Seiko Sewing Machine Mfg., in Japan. You can STILL get new Seiko machines today.
Id hate having to load bobbins like that. I sugest a usd singer 111w155 top loading bobbin. I use a broken seam ripper to lift by bobbins out and catch my bobbin thread after its pulled up to pull it on out.
Quote from: Mike8560 on September 10, 2010, 04:50:13 pm
Id hate having to load bobbins like that. I suggest a usd singer 111w155 top loading bobbin. I use a broken seam ripper to lift by bobbins out and catch my bobbin thread after its pulled up to pull it on out.
It's personal preference. Some only like top loaders, some only like bottom loaders, some people tell me they don't really care, as long as it's a good machine. Top loaders have always been more expensive, as well. Can't answer why, as both are very strong, reliable sewing mechanisms, when properly designed and made well.
OK, My question probably should have been "have you looked at the owners manual, or contacted the company that made the darn thing"
Mike
Quote from: 206RB on September 10, 2010, 05:49:35 pm
OK, My question probably should have been "have you looked at the owners manual, or contacted the company that made the darn thing"
Mike
"Most" manuals will tell you to line up two dots, one on the handwheel and one on the casting right next to the dot on the handwheel to remove the bobbin.
The manual I have for the machine is poor at best. It appears that this machine model was made for and distributed by Harbor Freight at one time.
I am making plans for a better machine, but once I can get the bobbin in and out without me or the LOML fussing about it? We will make do for now, take on enough work to pay for a new or used better machine.
About twice a year I make it to Philly on business. I think one of the preferred vendors here is located in Philly.....right Gregg? ;)
I remove the bobbin case on my machines so instinctively that I don't really give it a second thought when I do it! But I was thinking about exactly I do it after reading your post, Sawdustar.
I automatically make sure the needle is at the height of its travel, never part way in the cycle. I always take my foot off the treadle. Then I reach under the machine and release the latch on the bobbin case and remove it. I replace the bobbin in the case and reinsert it in the race and bring the bobbin thread up by cycling the machine once by hand. That is just habit since the full function machines don't require the bobbin thread to brought up through the hole in the throat plate. I then put the empty bobbin on the winder and set it up to rewind while I sew.
I'd be very leary of shaving anything off the bobbin case or the race, personally. Those parts are engineered to fit snugly and precisely and monkeying around with them could set in motion a whole set of consequences you may not find to your liking!
Mike, I know it seems fiddly but once you've worked with a horizontal axis machine for a day it's really easy to pop a bobbin in and out; no harder than the standard vertical axis machines. It's important to remember that these are production machines and for production to be smooth routine bobbin changes have to be simple and straightforward. It's just a question of practice.
Quote from: sawdustar on September 11, 2010, 09:35:23 am
The manual I have for the machine is poor at best. It appears that this machine model was made for and distributed by Harbor Freight at one time.
I am making plans for a better machine, but once I can get the bobbin in and out without me or the LOML fussing about it? We will make do for now, take on enough work to pay for a new or used better machine.
About twice a year I make it to Philly on business. I think one of the preferred vendors here is located in Philly.....right Gregg? ;)
Um, that's right! I do have a show room, and lots of models in stock.
I was having bobbin troubles when I first got my seiko STH 8BLD-1, until I read the manual :-[ , having previously used & still use my pfaff 545 top loader I didn't know there was a specific position to get it out. Live & learn :-X
I have looked and looked my entire machine over for "markings" to align the hand wheel with the machine body. There are none. The LOML is the one that taught me about rotating it until the needle was at the highest point in order to work with the bobbin.
There's plenty of space between the bobbin and the fixed part on the machine. There's just no space between the bobbin carrier and that metal arm hanging just every so slightly in the way of getting the bobbin out.
I had the same problem on the same machine until I figured out the secret.
1) Press the reverse lever and hold (not necessary but make it easier)
2) Change the stitch length knob to the longest setting. Release the reverse lever.
3) Tilt machine and move wheel till it clears.
Presto.... the bobbin is out.
The machine works great for my boat canvas projects.
Alan
i just upgraded from a Yamata FY8500(the harbor freight Model) to a Consew 206-rb5. All i can say is I feel your pain on the bobbin and I wish I had upgraded sooner. Its a world of difference. I found Consew Heads for about 1k new. picked mine up on ebay for 615 new from a private seller. I think any one of the machines that have been talked about will out perform the Yamata.
I bought the Highlead from Gregg two years ago. Great machine. Great service. And, I haven't had any problems changing out the bobbin. I highly recommend it!
that sucker should just come rihgt out , weird
i paig about 800 for my used singer 11w155 i also bought a new juki ust the head for about 800 i had a tsed table and motor i like a top load bobbin as i can install a binder on the top plate and sw itch plate out when im noy binding,,
Quote from: Jim101 on September 09, 2010, 07:45:57 pm
Sawdustar,
I like the Pfaff machines. We have four of them, a Pfaff 130, Pfaff 138, Pfaff 545 and a Pfaff 1245. I understand they are expensive to repair when they break but I haven't had one break yet and the Pfaff 130 has been around since the 1950's. I wouldn't be surprised if it probably sewed a few poodle skirts as well as sails.
I really like the Pfaff 1245. The machine is a beast and it keeps on going without giving us any trouble no matter what type of material we throw at it. $1500.00 should get you one in the current market. Maybe even less.
Hey Jim, as you have both to use, whats the difference's between the 545 & the 1245. I believe the 1245 is the replacement for the 545, how does it compare ?
I am happy with my 545 & was looking at replacement cost if it was necessary.