Questions:
The technique I use to sew the zipper tape to the two boxing zipper strips is baste strips first, center tape and sew each seam down the sides.
Technique works fine, zipper is factory equal in appearance, but removing the basting seam is taking too much time.
Looking for a good idea that will speed this step up. Loosing tension on one of the threads helps but this method requires getting thread back to same tension and it still isn't easy to pull the loose thread clear of the seam.
Hope this is clear.
If a better technique is know (that yields nice straight seams), it would be interesting to read about it.
Saving time is very high priority while producing a factory looking zipper.
Doyle
Hi Doyle: In this video I show how I sew my zippers in. Starting at about .39 into the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFIIOSm7Cks&feature=share&list=PL0BD294FB1AA07F01
I also baste the seam first
but
I have a domestic machine, that I have in my shop, to sew the basting. The finer thread breaks very easily
I just fold-n-sew all in one stitch. I cut my zipper panels too big, so I don't have to worry about how much I'm folding under as I sew. Then I trim them down to size after sewing. With stretchy fabrics, I sew the zipper on my Juki DDL-555 (NON-walking foot) machine. Then I attach the completed zipper panel to the cushion on my WF machine.
I cut my zipper sides (strips) the same width as the boxing. I cut these out right along with the boxing when I cut out the boxing.
I then fold the zipper sides in half and sew on the zipper tape. This gives me the same width as the boxing.
I will sometimes iron/steam the zipper sides when I fold them in half, especially with thick fabric that allows me to do this.
I think doing it this way is faster. And on occasion when the back of the cushion is going to be seen, it seems that doing it this way is easier to line up the stripes, if there are stripes, for example.
gene
I glue and fold the edges of my zipper panels before I sew the zipper in.
The dynamics all you people add to this site is above all else. I ask a question and got five very heady (sp?) responces which are very appreciated.
They all add to the tool chest, so to speak, and will serve in future applications. The video was interesting, the basting trick Joy uses is so smart........well guess I know where that puts me. LOL.
Sounds like Texas boots are staying dry, can't figure out if that Texas Mojo is about to rocket or not, but he knows where the money is. Grin.
Anyway thanks all, you got me thinking and hopefully moving forward.
Doyle
Just goes to show that there's more than one way to pour piss from a boot.
gene
PS: I've mentioned before that I enjoy Mike's videos also.
Another thought and since we are on a roll, I will slip it in:
When doing zippers in leather, how do you change your technique, or do you?
Doyle
I do my zippers basicly like sofa doc does. Cut them oversize fold over sew and trim down to size.
With genuine leather I try to find a matching fabric for the zippers to aloow the cushion to breath. If not possible I do the same as for fabric. With good vinyl I will just sew and slit the vinyl.
Ditto what Paul said about vinyl zippers. I just sew the zipper tape to the back side of the panel, and slit the front open.
I don't do zippers.......:)
But I sure enjoyed watching Mike's video.
If I haven't thanked Mike let me thank you now. I know how time consuming making these videos are
and many of us truly appreciate your dedication to helping us. One of these days I need to find a way to copy your You Tube videos onto DVD so I can have them in my library of DIY videos.
Actually Mike you should produce and sell these videos. :)
Chris
i cut the zipper boxing the width of the rest of the boxing plus the width of the zipper tape.
fold the zipper boxing in half and sew along the folded edge without back stitching each end, so when the piece is un folded it is the same width
as the rest of the boxing.
Then i cut along the center which gives you two sides to the boxing and fold flat the seam and sew on the zipper
by eye. you now have a folded edge to the zipper opening and all you need to do is sew in the boxing as normal
and last job is to seam rip out the stay stitching down the center and its all done.
Mike that clutch motor humms like crazy you need a DC motor :-)
Rich
I do my zipper boxing the same way Gene does. One line of stitching for each side. Badabing badaboom. If the fabric is bulky I sometimes trim the underside of the boxing down just below the zipper tape.
I would never waste time using the manual presser foot lever, either. On my oldest machine (1929 Singer) I use a knee lift for the presser foot (I dislike a foot pedal for lifting a presser foot unless it's on an overlock or other multi-needle machine). My two new Jukis are full function and there is an automatic foot lift engaged with the treadle.
On my older machines I never waste time using scissors to cut thread, either. Get yourselves a few pair of "snips", you wear them on the ring finger of your right hand and you never have to put them down. Can you tell who worked piece rate in a garment shop?
Quote from: bobbin on May 19, 2013, 04:24:19 pm
Get yourselves a few pair of "snips", you wear them on the ring finger of your right hand and you never have to put them down.
While thread nippers are great for cutting thread, I never had much luck using them to snip welt as I go around a corner. So since I have to keep scissors next to my work anyway, I never got into the habit of using thread nippers.
Maybe I didn't get the right ones. Do they make nippers that will snip 4 layers (welt, boxing, panel)?
The way I set up my work I never have to cut through more than the welting (two layers) and my Wiss snips are definitely up to the task. I keep them sharp, though. And they have a set screw that allows you to adjust the way the blades pass each other. I have no use for the model that has "replaceable blades", never found that they worked well for anything more than just thread.
I do a ton of cushion work and after finishing a layout and doing the cut I move on to the zipper boxings and attaching them to the regular boxing and forming the "slider garage". I then welt all the pcs., and move on to the assembly. So, I don't have to cut through 4 or more layers of fabric while the work is under the needle.
What was the cool scissor sharpener you shared with us, Sofa.? I haven't been able to remember and recently it's crossed my mind a couple of times. I think I'd like to own one of those.
Yeah, technically I seldom have to snip through more than 2 layers. But the nippers that I have won't even do that.
Here's that scissor sharpening gadget:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200431964_200431964
I think this tool is great for people that DON'T have a talent for sharpening with a stone (like ME). But if you ARE good with a stone, you might be disappointed with the edge you get with the Worksharp tool. It definately changes the angle of the blades. I'm happy with the tool, but I'd say that it probably isn't for everyone.
My "snips" are kept sharp. And they're able to reliably handle 9oz. Sunbrella, but I've never hesitated to snip one layer at a time, either! I keep a pair of tailor points on my tool cart, too.
Tailoring is ALL about know how to "clip", "notch", "slash" when it's time to deal with a curve or turn a corner. And the trade has a specific pair of scissors to make it easy. Tailor points are conventional scissors with stout, short blades. Little effort is required to make neat, precise, controlled bites into fabric. Look for them! and make sure you keep the blades sharp. I have mine sharpened once a month (thanks for the hot tip, Sofa.!). They're worth their weight in gold, you guys. Trust me on this.
I do a lot of cushion work and I frequently have to deal with contrast welting. I prestitch all welting to the tops/bottoms of cushions. Some may think that a waste of time, but I like doing it that way so I'm able to make sure the top/bottom are nice and flat, smooth as a glass (baby's ass?).
When I have to notch the corners of a cushion that has no welting (but will be topstitched) I use my tailor points. And when I have a series of cushions in a job that all require the same topstitch treatment I do all the notching at the same time... AFTER I've stitched the boxing and BEFORE I topstitch! The more you combine the same step on multiple pcs. the more efficient your time at the machine will be. This is esp. important for those of you with clutch motors and who don't have a knee lifter!
I'm working with a micro fiber that does not fold very easily and I cannot use steam of heat.
I made 8 furniture cushion zippers today using the technique Mike showed on his video. It saved me a lot of time from having to wrestle with folding the fabric the way I usually do it.
Once again, I am grateful for this forum.
Thanks,
gene