Center Console Cover--New Project

[Peppy]

Seems like your still treating patterns as blankets. Like Mike says, when patterning aim for the one shot deals. And any goofy elements you can add (like the throttle) add to the custom-ness. Have faith in your pattern, if it fit all you have to worry about is your 1/2", right?

[Mike8560]

Yesterday I patterned 1/2 a mooring cover  for a center o sole with a t top
dot I helped do a  ow co er and a dash area co er on a duel console

I did t get pattern pix nut j try to remember to get after shots.

[Highvelocity]

Seems like your still treating patterns as blankets. Like Mike says, when patterning aim for the one shot deals. And any goofy elements you can add (like the throttle) add to the custom-ness. Have faith in your pattern, if it fit all you have to worry about is your 1/2", right?

So Peppy, would you have cut out for the steering wheel and throttle lever??  Then make some boots to sew over??  Assuming you cut them out on the pattern. 

That's the problem I have with half pattern, some jobs are not symetrical, so then what do you do?     

[JuneC]

Consoles (and most things) I pattern in one shot since I'm not local to just about everything I do.  I HATE having to drive 1/2 hour to some boat just for a 5 minute fitting.  The way I'd have patterned that is to simply throw the pattern plastic over the console, then using my stapler, basically make the cover by pulling the excess plastic and stapling where my seams would be - darts, corners, and everything else.  If the plastic is too narrow/short in places, I cut scraps and tape on extra to reach the seam lines or deck.  If required, I'll make a cut where the zip(s) goes just to get the pattern off.   Once back at the shop, mark the staple lines with a sharpie and pull the staples.  Seams that need to be cut in the plastic pattern I make reference marks across where the cut will be - like "A------A" and "B------B".  Then when I cut up the plastic, I have very accurate references.   

June

[bobbin]

June, my boss patterns the way you do.  But it usually begins with a "blank" and I cut and make it up according to very rough measurements.  It is fitted, returned to the shop and then I cut it apart and make it up. 

My question is the same as Highvelocity's... how do you address the placement of the wheel, throttle, etc. and the commensurate difference in size from one side of the pattern to the other?

Like everyone else, I am always shocked by the amount of fabric required for a "simple" console cover... shocking, ain't it? and that's one reason I really like Peppy's patterning.  As a long time garment person I know well how smaller pcs. can be nestled together to accomplish something with minimal fabric!  If you can cut the shape into the pcs and not waste fabric in large darts you can save goods. 

Beautiful work. 

[Highvelocity]

Peppy and June,
     I know what you do works, otherwise you wouldn't do it.  I just haven't done enough of them yet to see how to do it correctly and efficiently.  I don't want you to think I am arguing the point, just trying to get some knowledge of how you pattern in these situations.

   Ed

[Peppy]

some jobs are not symetrical, so then what do you do?     

Ya, this console cover was odd in that 1/2 could be made. Most, say a sailboat wheel cover, I'll make the whole thing. Although if it is just a lever sticking out I'll make it on that side and cut around it to make a bag for it and not cut out the other side.


Here I've patterned the bag where the wheel pokes through. On the other side the hole will be ignored.

Remember too, that your not making a tarp out of sheet metal. Small variations can be cut around and ignored in the pattern and tarp and vinyl added and so what if it pokes up a bit?

It's easier to cut and sew if you cut your pattern where the finished seam will be, but theres usually several ways to cut the cloth to achieve the same effect. Darts in the pattern can become a border instead, for instance. I often mark several options and final decisions are made at the cutting table. Just like June says:

I make reference marks across where the cut will be - like "A------A" and "B------B".  Then when I cut up the plastic, I have very accurate references.   

When I'm patterning something odd I'll start with a huge piece of paper and tape it to the high points without cutting the paper. Usually I'll find three spots and make a tensioned triangle. Then I can move the paper around and find where the excess paper is and where I might need seams. When I'm making the whole thing I'll incorporate the trotle or wheel into the pattern. Taping to the knob and marking a dart, or cutting curves around the wheel or what not. It's always different.

What you use for pattern material is your choice. The idea as I see it is to use something cheap enough to screw up.  I want a material that behaves like the finished cloth. When patterning for vinyl I'll use dust cloth. Sunbrella I use paper. I like paper more than plastic for it's stability, paper will never stretch. Stretched patterns can't be replicated in cloth, can they? And it's stiffness, it's very easy to see where the high points are and where it needs to 'break' or be cut. For me it's not important to see through the pattern. I can pinch to crease the paper where ever theres something underneath. I can feel pin stripes though the paper to trace them. And if I need to see underneath I'll look underneath. And paper tapes back together easily and almost permanently. I don't like the thought of trying to staple a pattern together. Must work though!

I don't want you to think I am arguing the point, just trying to get some knowledge of how you pattern in these situations.

I love talking about this sort of theory crap! Takes me back to art school!

[bobbin]

And I really like hearing someone talk about patterning as an artform in itself!  Personally, I agree with you (the clothing "me" speaking) but my boss regards patterning as a necessary evil and the result is that there is too much left undefined... and for one who does nothing but "fabricate" the "undefined" part of things is nothing sort of a minefield and I'm the blind man treading my way through it!

I see difficulty with your paper patterns (don't you worry about tearing, etc.?), but I also really like that your patterns are easily recyclable.  Plastic ones aren't.  Unless you reuse the parts (and that entails labor to un-do them).  We have a 24"Dx48"Wx18"H pile of "saved" patterns waiting for future use blocking a significant run of baseboard heating.  It's now November and heat will be important shortly!

[Mike8560]

Here's how I would address it I don't use stars what I do is put blue painters tape everywhere I want a seam or to hold on the plastic  I would put tape around the bottom on  divide the front from the rear with tale and a seam up the side o er the window and handrail and down the other side normally ther is tape on the front at the front and side of the front console seat.
Onthe throttle and wheel. O. The blue tape I use two sides seamtape   If the blue tape is not used the two sided tape canbe on for good.
Then I'll ace a plastic o. The front and a piece ot the back there normally is more seams and darts o. The Bach half   t the throttle a dart a d a curved seam at the bottom of the wheel.
Mark the seam cuts with a sharpie marker and tranfers to canvas  with a seam allowance. Sew it up and go snap it on.  Just how I soo it. So you have a idea.

[Mike8560]

Oh and I woulnd do half. Pattern for a odd thing like a console.
The pattern and cover would fit over the throttle and wheel not with a sock or sleeve leaving them sticking out.

[JuneC]

Only time I put a bag over the wheel or throttle is when the console is a 2nd station on a boat - like on the flybridge.  If you make a tightly fitted cover and they want to drive from inside the boat it inhibits movement of the gears/throttle so you need to have a loose bag that permits travel of the gears.  In a console like you've done, I incorporate the sticking-out-stuff right into the cover and cut/seam/dart around it for a nice fit.

June

[regalman190]

Nice work Ed.

I pattern like June, Peppy and Mike. One shot. I try not to go back to the boat if I don't have to. I use plastics and full pattern, not half.

But, what is important, is how you prefer to do it that you're comfortable with and works for you.

Again....nice job!

[Mike8560]

Understood

[Highvelocity]

Regalman, Thanks.


June, that's what I did over the throttle, I should have taken a better picture.   I cut a 40' wide piece to go over the console front to back, then when I saw how it laid over the throttle I put a dart in and then made my side panel for the right side.  It worked because the boat was in the back yard and I could run back out and get the next pattern.  To be able to do something like this a half hour a way,,,a solid pattern is a must,,I'll get there.


BTW..Peppy, where do you get that nice wide roll of work paper????????  I am going to use is on the next one and see how it goes.

[Peppy]

Heres a wheel cover pattern-


Never got a done picture. One of the few things I don't have to fit. Maybe next year...

I only do a bag for sticky-outy things if it allows me to make 1/2 a pattern. On a whole pattern I incorporate it into the tarp. I've said it before but it's worth saying again; while 1/2 a pattern does save you patterning work the real advantage is cutting it out. The sunbrella is folded in half back up the roll and the centerline is laid on the fold. Once it's traced out both layers of sunbrella are cut at the same time with a hot knife. Reference marks are then transfered to the bottom layer and it's peeled open. Like cutting snowflakes. This makes every piece symmetrical and interchangeable left to right inside and out. It's not quite half the work (you still have to sew the whole thing) but it's close. It's a huge benefit. But only if you make 1/2 a pattern and use sunbrella. I think you guys are crazy if you don't give it a try. Thats just me though. Paper is also perfect for this because the factory edge is straight as anything and is used as a centerline. I give you this tidbit free of charge so as to advance the industry ;) and it's not like your down the road cutting my grass. Even if you are 'sew what'? We've got a 30 year lead on you guys :-P (holy smiley faces Peppy! More in one post than I've ever used before!)

Paper does rip. Always. But it's a lot stronger than you give it credit for. Also it's easier to tape a rip back together than a cut because all the jagged edges make it super easy to line up. But it's totally a matter of preference I'm sure you could figure it out with plastic. We get our paper from an office/sanitation (ie toilet paper) distributer. 60" x 600' is about $70 cdn.

So Mike, on a wheel/console cover do you pattern each piece independently, mark your lines take it off and pattern the next piece? Like you were making a dot pattern on a top? Or do you make it like a big bag all attached like me and June? If you make a bag why do you need to see through the pattern?

Bobbin, my favorite part of the job is making the patterns. I like being 'perfect' and trying to think of everything that the sewer needs to know. I have four patterns in front of the sewers now (which let me take the day off today!) and I'm not always around to answer pattern questions. If I wasn't clear on the pattern they'll screw it up. Not their fault mind you, the best sewer in the world with a crappy pattern = a crappy tarp. Also, the best pattern in the world with a crappy sewer = crappy tarp. Thats where you 'one man bands' have an advantage, you have the boat in your head at the machine. 'My' sewer is lucky if she sees 1/3 of the we work on.