How to slow down your industrial sewing machine

[andre1975]

http://www.youtube.com/user/Cechaflo#p/u/2/UikRXbzLfHw

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Good video, and I'm sure if I made one, someone could pick it apart, but here is my take;

This guy is correct, in that changing to a smaller OD pulley will slow you machine down.  He is switching from about a 3-1/4" down to a 613 Amco style pulley with 2" OD.  This is a industry standard pulley, and easy to locate, so no reason to recommend a machine shop for such a thing.  

Also, he is using the incorrect belt; Hand wheel is smooth and not geared, pulley is smooth and not geared, and so should the belt be smooth and not geared.  V belts common to industrial machines work off of friction from the sides, and with half of it cut away, and with the smaller diameter/smaller surface area pulley, you will have a hard time adjusting the pulley tension illustrated in the video so that it does not slip.

Correct belt is a 3L fractional size 3/8" width, 7/32" high V belt.

Also, with a three min. video, they should have noted that you have to readjust the treadle (you can see it's touching the bottom brace after adjustment of the motor, that may prevent the motor clutch arm from returning to neutral) as well as readjust the bobbin winder so it will again engage the belt when winding a bobbin properly.

[Skippy]

I don't believe that is a geared belt.  I don't know what it is called but I know that sometimes that is what they give you for a replacement at the auto parts store.

[fragged8]

hiya

this comes up over and over, perhaps it could go into the "how to do that" section ?

Rich

[rookie]

I just installed a 2" pulley on my clutch motor and I'm having a problem finding Neutral
When the treadle is released the brake is on.
I have adjusted the rod to the treadle with no success, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

I just installed a 2" pulley on my clutch motor and I'm having a problem finding Neutral
When the treadle is released the brake is on.
I have adjusted the rod to the treadle with no success, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

This is the second time I am responding to this question (you posted this in another section).

I am pretty confident that I can assist you but I need more information.

I don't understand what you are asking about when you say neutral.  Do you mean that you want more play in the clutch?  This would enable you to push the treadle down slightly without engaging the motor, so that you can turn the handwheel by hand freely to position the needle.

Let me know.

[Can-Vas]

hiya

this comes up over and over, perhaps it could go into the "how to do that" section ?

Rich

AGREE....

[Mike8560]

Here's a question for Greg I've never broke a belt on my
machines my oldest has a round leather belt that is hogringed to length do you sellthis material and is the v belts on my other machinesthe same as a auto belt
just wondering as I've never had to figure out where to get. A new belt
(knock wood).

[slodat]

I am mounting this speed reducer pulley on my Consew 255-RB3 to make it double duty for sewing thicker leather projects. My father had this setup on his machine. The pulley acts as a flywheel and it will sew slowly through anything. The reducer combined with the servo motor makes for a very versatile machine. It does help that I got the pulley setup from my father and I have a fabrication shop to make the motor stand.

[gene]

That looks like a geared belt to me. One of the things we DYIers tend to focus on is what works, not what is the correct, or best, thing to do.

And sometimes what works today may give us problems down the road because it was not the correct or  best thing to do.

In the video the first thing he does is takes off the kitty cat tail guard. I never put mine on, which is why I do not allow kitty cats in my studio.

Speaking of "picking videos apart": Sailrite has one on making an awning that I recently watched. The lady, sorry, but it was a lady, she added 41" + 1/8"+ 1/8" = 41 1/2". Also, I thought is was odd that she did not center the striped fabric when she cut out the main piece of fabric and sewed everything together. But then, thanks to the magic of video, the finished product showed the fabric nicely centered.

And thanks for posting the video andre1975.

gene

[Tejas]

It might be a cogged vee belt which is designed among other things for better efficiency on small pulleys.

http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.com/files/Goodyear/GoodyearPowerTransCatalog/GoodyearPowerTransCatalog1.Page63.pdf

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

Two things;

Mike8560,

Round leather belting with hog ring is still very common setup for a lot of older machines, and yes, we sell the belting, rings, and tools for this.

Andre1975, belt is on the correct path, but one you have linked is a larger size 4L, most sewing machines use a 3L type, but 4L usually will work fine.  Also, smooth belting, no teeth will work better IMO as the smooth belt has more side wall surface are to grab.  Every one of my suppliers sells a smooth side wall belt, but none I know of havserrationsations. 

Again, the moral here, as said, DIYer or not, if it works, that's all that matters.

[Jim101]

You gotta admit!

The groovy Charlie Brown piano music is seriously funky  ;D

Jim

[jsquail]

220v 3/4hp 1725 rpm 3 phase motor.
Allen Bradley 3/4hp Variable  frequency drive 110v input/3 phase 220v output.
Berringer Guitar volume control pedal.

The ultimate in sewing machine motor speed adjustment from a pedal and all the punch power you need to sew through several layers of materials. No motor running all the time.

[Gregg @ Keystone Sewing]

220v 3/4hp 1725 rpm 3 phase motor.
Allen Bradley 3/4hp Variable  frequency drive 110v input/3 phase 220v output.
Berringer Guitar volume control pedal.

The ultimate in sewing machine motor speed adjustment from a pedal and all the punch power you need to sew through several layers of materials. No motor running all the time.

I can't find info. on this motor.  Got a link where I can see what it is?  It sound like a beast.