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Rush Chair

Started by SteveA, January 31, 2019, 06:26:15 am

Previous topic - Next topic

kodydog

Looking to make a little extra cash on the side there Steve. Cool find.
There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html

SteveA

I'll have to weight the benefits vs keeping it  lol
SA

Darren Henry

Steve said---"I took this motor off the old compressor.  The tank and the pump was shot.  Anyway I see it has a black and a white wire - the amps are 15 - 3400 rpm - but 3 HP.  Do you think this can run on 110 if I put on a regular plug ?  It was running on 220 before
SA

No! On smaller motors there is a chance that they can be wired for 110 or 220. there will be a diagram on the side of the motor or the inside of the wiring box cover if it can be rewired. I have never seen a 3 horse like that though.

Life is a short one way trip, don't blow it!Live hard,die young and leave no ill regrets!



gene

Great job.

I was wondering why some trunks had a domed top. So I looked it up.

https://antiquesandauctionnews.net/articles/Why-Are-Some-Trunk-Tops-Flat-And-Others-Curved%3F/

gene
QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!

kodydog

Wow, that thing was a mess. Looks great now.
There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
http://northfloridachair.com/index.html

SteveA

Gene you're 100 percent right - these trunks do not have resale value even after restoration.  This one was handed down in the Family - the lock says yr. 1886.
In the dome were built in compartments and most of the shelving was gone and I didn't replace it just squared it off.  I told the client $ 600.00 and he was very pleased to have it done. 
One thing I can tell you these trucks are built like a brick  S*^# house.  Very well made - even the pins for the hinges and the lock assembly pin had rivets drilled in the back so you could not easily slide the pins out. 
Great craftsmanship that you'll never see again
SA

SteveA

I bought this 3 drawer file cabinet a few weeks ago at an estate sale for $ 50.00.  I wanted it for myself - I really am partial to oak / my Wife put it in the spare room like it was a high night table.  I forgot to take a before picture but it was nasty and wobbly. Glued it back together - oxalic acid treatment - dark oak dye stain - two coats of varnish brushed on.  Wondering what to put in it ? 


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/c20e61fe-f953-4a61-b9d4-ee86446d44f9-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

SteveA

I hate designer finishes.  I have to make this table a dark gray color.  Not realizing when I picked it up it was teak wood under a dark brown stain.  I stripped + sanded it - still too brown for a gray color so I bleached it with two part bleach - still saw brown coming through - then mist coat of bleachtone dye and finally the surface was even and light - applied one coat of wiping stain (gray) and a top coat of the same stain spraying it with some brown universal colorants van dyke to get closer to the sample.  Way too much time for this job and since I don't do these finishes often there is a lot of stress - give me antiques to refinish any day


Stripped
Bleachtone
Stained


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/6ca286b0-f1c4-446f-b715-164f778b67c0-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/4c31ddeb-307b-4400-89ae-ca19f2840aa6-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/70209768-e904-4ec5-b867-71903714cab3-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

65Buick

That's a huge amount of work, Steve. Turned out great.

SteveA

Here's the final color and finish.  Got as close to the sample as I could.  The designer said it was fine - the color didn't have to be perfect but a dark gray was important.  The sample was oak with a white glaze in the grain.  I had my hands full with this teak wood.  Anyway it's pretty close considering all the variables -  the sample is on the top of the table - small 3 inch x 1 inch piece from the curtain store.
SA

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/6351652a-c109-43af-97b6-b1463fcd890f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

gene

That's a ton of work. I've never worked with teak but I hear it can be difficult.

This is the kind of job where you want to make sure the customer knows the finished project will be "close enough" - no mulligans. :-)

gene
QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!

SteveA

The issue with teak is that it's oily.  You worry about the oil not allowing your finish coats to dry.  I've read that after stripping and scrubbing with a product like TSP it is wise to wash coat the wood before staining or finishing with acetone.  I didn't use an oil stain and after staining I sealed with 2 spit coats of shellac. The final color was a brownish black glaze - japan colors - followed by clear lacquer.
Delivering it tomorrow - I sent the designer a photo today and she was pleased.   Inspection today - no oil showing through - hope it holds
SA

SteveA

The natural light at the end of the day is the best.  Just before loading into the truck for tomorrow's delivery
SA

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad181/SteveA_2010/0/e6094736-794b-459c-82cc-79697cedff07-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds