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How to evaluate Fabric Content?

Started by baileyuph, February 25, 2019, 06:35:45 am

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baileyuph

Today, seems we are encountered with some fabric contents that are not as familiar;  that is, the new
terms are relating to synthetic content but not being familiar and no reading on this, all that is deciphered
is they are "synthetic". 

So were terms like Polyester and nylon in the past, but to evaluate - we just learned.

What are new quality contents?  Which to maybe avoid?  I realize there is more than content but how do you learn to stay "away" or avoid?

Are most evaluating from feel?

Any thing meaningful to pass on?

Thanks for any help.

Doyle

SteveA

My wife would buy textiles because it had Herculan in it.  Just synthetics I guess - but sounded indestructible to my wife - 
This week I looked at a job with two fabric issues.  The first were arm chairs and the fabric was getting fuzzy on the arms after only 1 month of use. 
The second a sectional - Velvet - same time frame - and the zipper on the bottom of the back rest cushion was leaving an imprint in the top of the seat casing. 
Both high end fabrics but not what the customer expected.  Maybe quality is going away even on the high end fabrics.  Last month I had that other job where the course fabric was opening on the seams. 
All the labor to cover the goods and dissatisfaction from the customer.  No wonder so many folks are just buying new instead of restoring the furniture.
SA

gene

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9P9hSoZuQ4

I give this to customers who want to know about upholstery fabric.

And here's a doc I pulled of the internet that I keep on my bulletin board at work:

Burn Test Chart
Fabric Identification - The Burn Test


Precautions
Use caution during burn test. Use a metal bucket, an old tuna tin or a glass ashtray. Do not use plastic containers. Always have water nearby or have some in the bottom of your burn dish.

The Method
Cut a 1" long triangular shaped snippet off from your fabric. Hold snippet in a pair of tweezers over the dish. With either a match or cigarette lighter, the snippet should be put directly into the flame long enough for it to catch on fire.

Fibers can also be identified through the smell of the smoke it gives off in burning, and the ash or melted bead that remains after it has burned. Some of the fabrics are blends, and the blend of fibers may make the burn test a rather unreliable test for fiber content. Moreover, some fabrics have chemical finishes and sizings applied to them that will change the way they burn, making the burn test further unreliable.

Reaction of Fibers to the Burn Test
Cotton
Is a cellulose fiber. It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it continues to glow. It gives out a smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is fine and soft and can be easily crumbled.

Hemp
A cellulose fiber, burns quickly with bright flame. It leaves no melted bead and after burning no sign of flame is seen. It smells like burning leaves or wood. The ash is gray and smoke has no fume hazard.

Jute
Also a cellulose fiber, doesn't shrink from flame. Other characteristics are similar to those of hemp fabric.

Linen (Flax)
A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are similar to hemp and jute.

Rayon
Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up.
Unless there is a fabric finish, it doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous.

Silk
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves a dark bead which can be easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves ash that is a dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like burned hair or charred meat. It gives out little or no smoke and the fume has no hazard.

Wool
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto fingernail. It leaves beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves harsh ash from crushed bead. It gives out a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark smoke and moderate fume.

Acetate, Triacetate
Is a protein fiber which burns quickly and can flare even after flame is removed. The bead is hard, brittle, and can't be crushed. It melts into a very hot bead and drips very dangerously. No ash is left by it and the smell is like hot vinegar or burning pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is hazardous.

Nylon, Polymide
Are made from petroleum. Due to their fabric finish, they quickly burn and shrink to flame. The beads are hard, grayish and uncrushable. After flame, they burn slowly and melt. They are self-extinguishing but drip dangerously. Their odor is like celery and they leave no ash but the fume is very hazardous.

Polyester
Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame, may also flare up. It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and is not always self-extinguishing. It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are hazardous.

Acrylic, Modacrylic, Polyacrylic
Made from natural gas and petroleum, they flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn rapidly with hot sputtering flame and drip dangerously. Beads are hard, dark, and with irregular shapes. They continue melting after flame is removed and are self-extinguishing. When burning, they give out a strong acrid, fishy odor. Although no ash is left, their black smoke and fume are hazardous.
QUALITY DOES NOT COST, IT PAYS!

baileyuph

Excellent response Gene - very informative

One bottom line:  "Don't permit smoking regardless of the content!"

Going forward, it looks quality just depends on ......... several things.

Thanks,

Doyle