XL

[SteveA]

The 4 seat rails are done - veneers on the rails were badly chipped on the edges so I replaced with long matching sections. Rails are now stripped, sanded, and the old glue removed from the dowels and rail ends. 

[byhammerandhand]

Thanks Steve. I just wanted everyone to appreciate how big a job this is. You're actually making better time than I would have guessed. You must have all the really cool toys in your shop.

Tools, not toys.   
Tools, not toys.
Tools, not toys.

Keep saying it.  ;-)

I was working at a friend's house last week.   When he retired, he had a $70K building put up in the back.   Probably another $30K in machinery.   While he was not there, his wife commented that woodworking tools are more expensive and extensive than her tools (she's a high end quilter -- "Fabric Artist").    I tried to explain we have a lot different tasks that needed to be done -- cutting, smoothing, shaping, sanding, drilling, turning, joining, etc.   I don't think she was buying it.  On an earlier visit she showed me her thread stash.   I think she had 1000 spools of thread in all sorts of colors -- this drawer is my greens, this drawer is my reds, and so on.

[SteveA]

Hello Keith - Thank goodness I've had work lately but that's really kept me away from this chair restoration.  Maybe I'm working on it 1 hour a week.   Hopefully soon to be DIL said she wants the chair when it's finished - my reply - trade you for a Grand Baby !  We'll see who moves ahead faster.  The problem lately is the drawers and cabinets are full of tools and I don't remember what's behind the crap in the front -  Tools, not toys !
SA

[Darren Henry]

my reply - trade you for a Grand Baby !  We'll see who moves ahead faster.

What are the chances of you accidentally finishing the chair ahead of schedule? [wink/grin]

[SteveA]

Started to work on the back rest.  Crest needs reglue - 1 ear, several arched moldings are loose and a couple arched moldings missing.  Some of the pieces are stripped and sanded.

[SteveA]

More parts missing.  The left and right ends -  you can see the shadow of two scrolls that were there and missing.  I traced the pattern with acetate paper - transferred to the wood - cut blanks out on the band saw - sanded mostly by hand.  I didn't know what the carvings looked like since there was nothing else on the chair to compare it to.   I tried to copy a scroll from a picture on line.  Not having something to look at in person was a pain - one is done - it was a lot easier carving them first before gluing them on the chair

[SteveA]

[SteveA]

Two last scrolls done on the bottom of the back rest.  The ones that were there were not worth saving.  Last thing to do on the back is to install a center wood rail that's missing.  It gets doweled and dadoed from top to bottom center.  Having second thoughts about installing it - the foam will be 2 inches but wondering if you'll feel the wood rail.  Could leave it off ?  Not sure what to do -

[SteveA]

The back is finally finished.  I did put a center rail back - there was the shadow of one being there previously.  I was concerned that it might make the center feel rigid when leaning back but I think structurally it's important and the foam + cotton will mask the rigidity of a center rail.  I built up the tacking ledge with pine pieces to have more stapling surface.  I want to be able to hold back the webbing slightly and the small ledge that existed would have meant the webbing staples would be in the last 1/8 of the original wood.

[gene]

Very nice work. I can only guess how many hours.

I remember a show of This Old House where Norm went to a woodworking shop where they reproduced wooden pieces. I think they had a finial and something from the outside of the house. Anyway, I was thinking that New England would have more business for that sort of thing than other places.

I built up the tacking ledge with pine pieces to have more stapling surface.

I've seen chairs where it is amazing how the upholsterer was able to get tacks into the small spaces. I guess when you spit tacks all day you get good at it. I would think that furniture makers way back when did not think about the upholsterer's work. Outside arms that have a piece of wood parallel to the ground but nothing to tack or staple sideways into the wood. You have to staple up into the wood. I've added wood at times to these types of chairs to make it easier for me to staple.

gene

gene

[SteveA]

I'm also sure Gene that over its life time there must have been 3-4 re-coverings - many tacks and tack removals to the existing small edge really chopped up the wood.  I filled it with putty but knew I had to add some structure.
Can you tell me what you think about the center rail ?
SA

[gene]

Can you tell me what you think about the center rail ?

If I had to bet $1.27 I would say the center rail was not original with the chair. I'm thinking it was added later by someone doing re upholstery. I don't recall ever seeing a center rail in a picture frame chair. The opening is rather small.

Now, having lost my $1.27, there is a lot of wood above the back picture frame opening. It is possible that a center rail was thought to be needed to support that weight.

The bottom line is how it feels. That opening is rather narrow and I think only a really skinny person would be able to feel the center rail if they leaned back really hard.

I like your decision to go with a center rail. Could you tell if the center rail markings were original?

gene

[SteveA]

There was definitely a rail running on the inside backrest from top to bottom.  On the underside of the top was a 7/16th hole drilled out and the shadow of a rail ending there.  At the base of the inside backrest there was a cut out or dado for the bottom of the rail to slide in.
The rail has been missing through at least the last two re-coverings.   When I removed the backrest coverings there was no rail but some pre 1930's steel straps running from top to bottom and attached to the edge with # 14 tacks. 
Thanks for the insight as always - the rail will add structure
SA

[SteveA]

Purchased another piece of East Indian rosewood for the feet that are missing.  They were out of the 8 quarter Mexican or Honduras I used previously and those were easier to work than the East Indian.  A piece 8 in. wide x 48 in. long was $ 90.00.  I cut the blanks for the glue ups -   tried out my new Nielson plane instead of the old Stanely I've had for years.  No throat adjustment but it was excellent at cutting the rosewood pieces flat for the glue up.  I have a small table top planer but I didn't want to kill the blades with the rosewood.  Glued up using west system 105 / 205 but washed the surfaces first with acetone.  Cut off the corners of the glue ups on the table saw - face plate mount with screws and onto the lathe using the tail stock.  Surprisingly it turned well and was fairly easy to cut.  I think the last piece of Indian rosewood they gave me may have been heartwood and it was like iron.  One leg done today - 3 to go and than carve some toes only in the front two legs to match an image I saw on line of a similar chair with toes.
If you are in the market for a plane look at the Nielson line - I had their scraper and their molding cutter but never had a reason to go to their planes - I'm glad I broke down and ordered their small block plane - they also have one with an adjustable throat for heavier shavings.

 

[kodydog]

Surprisingly it turned well and was fairly easy to cut.  I think the last piece of Indian rosewood they gave me may have been heartwood and it was like iron.  One leg done today - 3 to go and than carve some toes only in the front two legs to match an image I saw on line of a similar chair with toes.

Isn't it great when things work out better than expected. The legs look great Steve.