Just Started 22' Cobalt

[BlueFlamingo]

Just finished the rear seats and Deck Hatch Cover on a 22' Cobalt Boat  Next will be the Bow Cushions.  LOTS of Pleats!!!!

[brmax]

Whats the material their choosing for the project.
Rock on!

[BlueFlamingo]

32oz marine Vinyl with 1/2" Scrim Foam backing.  Using #92 Polyester Marine Thread.  Seat bases and backs were all water logged and rotted.  Had to remake them as well.  Used my wood sealer formula of 1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil, 2 Parts Mineral Spirits and One Part Spar Varnish.  Saturated the plywood edges and then coated everything with 3 full coats of the spar varnish.   They won't rot again.

[SteveA]

The linseed oil isn't helping.  Just use a thinned out varnish for the sealer to penetrate and full coats of varnish for topping off.

SA

[BlueFlamingo]

I beg to differ about the BLO.  It does help  It has a LOT of solids in it and when thinned with the MS it's carried deep into the edges of the plywood where it's the most suseptible to water.  Once the MS evapprates off  the Solids in the BLO expand again and seals the wood much more effectively than just plain urethane varnish.  I've use this formula for 40 years in outdoor environment projects and it's bee extremely effective.  I won't be changing it.  I highly recommend it over straight polyurethane.

[byhammerandhand]

US Forest Product Labs'  "Wood As An Engineering Material" ch 16, has this table:

Table 16-3. Moisture-excluding effectiveness of various finishes on ponderosa pine.

Finish                              No.                Moisture-excluding
                                    of coats           effectiveness (%)
                                                1 day   7 days   14 days
Linseed oil                       1          12       0         0
                                      2          22       0         0
                                      3          33       2         0

This book has more than you'll ever need to know about wood and its properties.

[Mike]

boiling Linseed Oil  what is the purpose? 

[SteveA]

Blue - the poly or varnish already has an oil in it.  Thinning poly or varnish with only MS will give you the better penetration and you'll still have a binder oil in the formula -

Alternatively adding BLO will slow down the penetration, and drying ability because the binder will be thicker.  When you add oil the mixture is heavier - it's also more difficult for top coats to cure.

Adding BLO to your sealer can upset the drying abilities of the mixture especially when using spar varnish which already has additional oil in it.

You have 40 years using this formula and I'm not about to try to change your approach - just my opinion - discussion here is what makes the site work.

Can I ask you - are these plywood seats made from marine grade plywood ?

SA

[BlueFlamingo]

No MG.  Just Ext. Grade.

I've had this debate many times over the years.  Plywood has 1/16th" plys before you hit the glue line.  The edges as most of us know is where it's very susceptible to water penetration.  I clamp several pieces together and then liberally apply the recipe to them until it starts to Pool and then wipe off the excess.  When it dries after about 2-3 days I follow up with 2-3 coats of Ext. Polyurethane. 

Test:  I did this to a 2x2' square piece of wafer board.  As you well know if it gets wet it bloats and crumbles.  After treating it, I nailed it to the west side of my house to FACE the Brutal weather conditions we have in Oklahoma.  Sun, Wind, Ice, Snow, Rain  You name it we have it.  After a Year and a half I took it down.  It pretty much looked exactly the way it did when I put it up.  No evidence of any water penetration.  I figure if it will do that when it's crap wood and totally exposed,  Using it for seat backs and bases that won't see that kind of abuse for years, then it's good enuf.

I guess I'll try it with just Poly and see what results I get.  Always willing to Live and Learn.

[brmax]

Here may be a bit of new and old information for curious minds among us.

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/faq.htm

I can say knowing some people that use and used the linseed product in ways of professionals.
Some roadway surfaces are "regularly" coated in a linseed oil spray application. This process is in the fall and applied to bridge road surfaces.
A professional painter and relative used the linseed oil in University and the structures including wood decking applications, "by spec" for whatever reasons and we all know there are plenty of people there to study the plus and minus of products.
I myself only know what I speak here that linseed oil of some type was used in hot weather to also help the flow of some paint.
I do know that even as an adult I didn't listen about paint from my relative and my az was burned.
Some new and old methods sure do collide until later when a new product emerges then we test again, but we should be sure to consider along the way we try like heck and make things cheaper and we do get that done " at a cost of initial quality" so many times we forget applications of usage.

good day there
Floyd

[byhammerandhand]

I tend to think of such marketing babble as pure BS.  Organic, chemical free, pure, natural ingredients, blah, blah, blah.   Most people that buy into this stuff could not pass a 9th grade general science exam.

Flax seed oil is another name for linseed oil.  Been used for centuries by itself and in paints and varnishes.  I use it.  But in "raw" form it takes ages to cure (literally months).   So they treat it with drying agents and call it "Boiled linseed oil."   In native form, it has zero moisture excluding efficiency and is in fact hygroscopic.

In my cleaning business, I will once in a while get a client that does not want me to use "chemicals."
Chemical: anything that has mass and occupies space.   I guess that leaves light and total vacuum. But I should not mention that light is a form of "electromagnetic radiation" (shudder, freak out) and DiHydrogen Monoxide is the chemical I use most, as it's the universal solvent.  http://www.dhmo.org/facts.html * as you can see, it's quite a dangerous "chemical."   I have probably said this before, but one client that mentioned this had  Haitian cotton that needed cleaned.   I told her I was using "Natural Fiber Cleaner" that made her happy.   I did not tell her "Natural" was the adjective for fiber, not for cleaner.

Sorry, just a pet peeve of mine.   I could not read that site after the first couple of sentences.

End of rant





* DHMO is commonly known as "water."

Here may be a bit of new and old information for curious minds among us.

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/faq.htm

[BlueFlamingo]

I offer this for everyone's consideration...http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflin.html