Glue guide

[byhammerandhand]

Found this glue guide, in one chart.



Also helpful is http://www.thistothat.com/

I got some of Titebond's new glue, Quick & Thick Multi-Surface Glue but haven't had a chance to try it yet.  http://www.titebond.com/news_article/16-01-19/Titebond_s_New_Quick_Thick_Multi-Surface_Glue_Bonds_Wood_and_More-3510876831.aspx

I occasionally see people recommend construction adhesive, but when I looked it has 10% of the shear strength of the white/yellow wood glues.  Don't think I'll be using it for much in the future.

[MinUph]

I stick with titebond original because it is as strong as 2 and 3 but is still water soluble. It helps because I get glue all over my short sometimes. I inquired with titebond years ago and strength didn't change much between the different types just useage and clamping times. I will us II for anything outdoors.
Your chart might be helpful but it doesn't get any bigger.

[byhammerandhand]

Same results here with Type II PVAs like Titebond III.    I ruined a few shirts with glue spots that won't wash out.

Hmm, when I (right) click on the chart and select "View Image", it gets full screen???

[MinUph]

That works.

[baileyuph]

Thumbs up on the Titebond, especially like the fact it can be washed out.

I have to glue Asian furniture frequently and that wood seems more brittle.  Therefore, find it best to reinforce with extra wood when it won't be seen. 

For someone who is in reupholstery, a lot of wood repair comes my way.  It isn't always Asian wood pieces, some of the older home grown hardwoods need regluing after time.

I don't mind the work because the work can start "now".  Don't have to order and wait for fabrics. 

When and on what do you usually prefer or should use Titebond II or III?  The Original - professional strength seems to work well.

Just about everything I glue is indoor items.

Doyle

[SteveA]

Asian woods will do better with epoxy

SA

[MinUph]

Thumbs up on the Titebond, especially like the fact it can be washed out.

I have to glue Asian furniture frequently and that wood seems more brittle.  Therefore, find it best to reinforce with extra wood when it won't be seen. 

For someone who is in reupholstery, a lot of wood repair comes my way.  It isn't always Asian wood pieces, some of the older home grown hardwoods need regluing after time.

I don't mind the work because the work can start "now".  Don't have to order and wait for fabrics. 

When and on what do you usually prefer or should use Titebond II or III?  The Original - professional strength seems to work well.

Just about everything I glue is indoor items.

Doyle

I use II on outdoor furniture it is water resistant. III Is water proof. It is the foaming type. Very messy. If I need III,I'll move to epoxy.

[byhammerandhand]

This came out today https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZBJG06o_KA

I'm putting my bottle of Quick and Thick in my work van.   There are times when I'm on site and have to wait for the glue to set up.   To reduce that time in half is money in my pocket.

As as aside, Ernie Conover is a neat guy.   I took a class from him a number of years ago.  His whop/classroom is in an old barn that just happens to be directly across the road from where I went to Boy Scout camp, Camp Chicagami.

Titebond III is not the "foamy type" it is a PVA glue.  Though Titebond does make a polyurethane glue ( http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-2303-Titebond-Polyurethane/dp/B0006U20KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461020662&sr=8-1&keywords=titebond+polyurethane+glue  )  I do hate the polyurethane glues, especially when some prior repair attempt used it.  A mess that's hard to clean up and generally fails.   Also stains your skin, does not wash out of clothes and cures in the bottle.   No thanks, even though I've done work for the owners of Gorilla Glue Co.

[baileyuph]

This is related to the topic;  in using glue and all as discussed, it is frequent I use screws to hold things together until the glue dries.  As Hammer said, time is important and a worker can't just wait around until things dry or set up.

Sooo.....the general comment/question is I will use a fine thread, #8 screw often for this extra work to free my clamps up.  As stated above, often the wood is Asian hardwood.  Pilot drilling is always done, what follows is the question what screw thread (fine, course, etc.) and size works best for you.  In pine, I usually go with a courser and perhaps larger guage screw.

Doyle

[byhammerandhand]

Yes, "Glue and Screw" is common for me in frame repairs.    As ugly as they are when visible, I've become a fan of pocket hole screws for interior repairs.   For $20, you can ge a "one holer" or for $40 you can get two holer (that has the advantage of being able to temporarily hold in place with a screw through the jig) and with a box of screws, you're off and running.  Be sure to use the right screws, flat head and (gasp) drywall screws won't work right.

If I'm working on casegoods, then appearance is more important and glue-only may be required.

A friend-neighbor brought over a ~40 year old dining chair yesterday with a broken dowel pin on a stretcher.  Of course, in order to get it back together the front part of the chair needed to be removed.   Took off the slip seat and ugh.   DPU (Dreaded Prior Upholsterer) had done a bang up job of repairing it when it was last reupholstered.  Let me count the ways:
- Polyurethane glue foamed out everywhere.
- Holes drilled at an angle through the top rails into the legs, then a dowel inserted, intersecting the dowel pins already there in both directions from every corner
- Extra screws added in the corner blocks and back had a lag bolt!
- Nails toe-nailed in, for good measure

Result: loose joints that won't easily come apart.

People, people -- chair joints will eventually get loose, make sure they are repairable in the future.

This is related to the topic;  in using glue and all as discussed, it is frequent I use screws to hold things together until the glue dries.  As Hammer said, time is important and a worker can't just wait around until things dry or set up.

Sooo.....the general comment/question is I will use a fine thread, #8 screw often for this extra work to free my clamps up.  As stated above, often the wood is Asian hardwood.  Pilot drilling is always done, what follows is the question what screw thread (fine, course, etc.) and size works best for you.  In pine, I usually go with a courser and perhaps larger guage screw.

Doyle