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Boat Cover Tent Pole Sock - Geometry Design?

Started by baileyuph, April 12, 2015, 06:54:22 am

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baileyuph

April 12, 2015, 06:54:22 am Last Edit: April 12, 2015, 09:17:31 am by DB
Got a boat cover that lost its pole sock.  Need ideas on a good geometery design.

Applying snap or grommet isn't the question, simply what geometric design works best  in patterning the sock?

Then, the sock will be sewn to the cover.

I gather the sock should be about 8 inches high and assume the pole is adjustable, never saw it.  Pole diameter - well I suspect 1 1/2  to 2 inch, probably.

I have made the socks by copying what was used before, but got to thinking there may be a better way to pattern and sew it?  As stated, sock lost in this case, btw boat is bass and recreation.

Any design that would work, please describe or?


Doyle

brmax

Im not sure this is the answer your after, so can maybe start here "cylinder".
I understand 70mph and covers flapping up and down, because I have had several trailerable boats its just common here.
And near the same area as you, I have had standard wood handles to aluminum adjustable for post, and a couple aluminum7/8b and 3/4top slide type w/camloc type came in the mail Friday and with the snap or peg ends just flip over to what ya want. I am just talking this for some helpful information, in some of mine were a 2x6 with drilled hole and wood pole with rounded top and worked perfectly fine for me.
The materials were sometimes cut in an oblong and folded manner with some darting at top, with a seem on the sides, some with double or possibly another material.
Seems the old 2x6 stays where you set it if a slide/sock method is used while trailering.
I guess I would have to get around asking whats the canvas look like at removed sock area first. And follow with what pole is used or is it in need of replacement.
Sorry for no answer, More coffee and info gathering casualy.

baileyuph

April 12, 2015, 10:56:05 am #2 Last Edit: April 13, 2015, 05:17:31 am by DB
Maybe this will clarify what my mind is connected to;

If one uses a cylinder, is same diameter all the way down the preferred or maybe call it a cone?  Would that be best?

Whatever is made has to be connected (fitted and sewn to the main canvas).

Some geometry would be easier to make, for example the mitten style where one seam maybe, again will that meet durability requirements.

What style is made should be strong to the main canvas and should wear well while supporting the pole.

A comment, if one does the cylinder concept, that would probably require reinforcement where top of pole is?

Are the flat and cylinder types the ones used mostly?

Like said before, the old one is gone.

Thanks for contributing,

Doyle

brmax

My estimation is 95% are a cone shape at some degree that I see.
I was really heading towards getting the specific support system your customer uses, my brain wont work without that. "luckily it has safety stops"
The humidity here is terrible and as bad is the snow load, now not like the North but if the boat sits outside as many many do the material and support is my 1st question and hard headed as I am I don't go much further until I clearly understand the storage and typical on road trailering amounts.

The 4" on and off snow loads, and you know this is not counting the many river fishing flat boats that are among the hardwoods here and outside getting all the leaf loads.
Is there any need for venting within the repair conversation, if not its your good judgement.

baileyuph

It has been designed, pattern constructed, cut out, sewed, and installed.

How?  I will try to convey...

To keep the effort objectively oriented, I did a geometric creation of a pyramid, which enabled me to compute the surface dimensions of the four sides plus the top surface, a square sized to accept the support pole ( a 2.5 inch square).  then added seam allowances to the four sides and sewed it up and then onto the boat cover.

BTW, the pattern was a one piece of canvas with darts at the four sides (only 4 seams on one piece of material - which kept the pieces and sewing to a minimum).

For strength at the top of the pyramid, an extra layer was stitched (doubled) where pole makes contact.

The four sides were folded under (equal to seam allowance) and then top stitched to the cover.

It was pleasing to see the final sock fit very accurately.

Never created one this way before, if the old one worked, it was just copied and installed.  In this case the original sock was lost.

Glad it is done, thanks Brmax for the "use your judgement" encouragement.

Doyle



Mike

I uualy have a snap pole but recienly I did use a sock on this cover


adkutable poles are 7/8" bottom with a 3/4"inner section  I make the socks about 12" ABOUT 2? DDIAMETER A LITTLE BIGGER THEN THE POLE SO AS NOT TO FIGHT TO GET IT IN usualy there is a senter seam where the pole will go so I fold the top of the sleeve flat and sew it to the inside of the seam