Welting Question

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

I feel kind of silly asking this question, but ...

I'm self-taught on most things.  Generally, my welting is basically in a continuous piece of vinyl and I clip the cord to fit the vinyl.

I'm working on one of the boats.  I have welting that makes a "U" on the back and seat of the boat.  The back and seat fabric is actually three separate pieces of vinyl with welting separating each piece.  In order to keep the thickness down, should I cut the cording 1/2" top and bottom so that I only have the vinyl butting up against the "U" welting?

While on the subject of welting, any tried and true tips would be gratefully appreciated.  I truly love working with vinyl/upholstery and want to produce the highest quality product that I can.

Thanks!

Virginia

[sofadoc]

If you're saying that the last 1/2" of sewn welting is hollow (no cord inside), then yes, that is something that I have done before. But I'm a furniture guy. The car/boat guys may feel differently.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Yup, that is exactly what I was trying to say.

Thanks!

Virginia

[MinUph]

When I do auto which I don't do anymore or boats, I use poly welt cord. I generally would agree with leaving 1/2 of cord from the adjoining area seam so as to cut down on the bulk. The only issue is with this poly welt cord slipping. It can bunch up in use because it is not locked at the seams. I can't say I have had this problem but can foresee it happening from working with it inside of vinyl.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Thanks Paul!

That's a good point about the cording bunching.  Keeping that in mind, I'll sew the cord to the vinyl and then try and cut as much excess cable as I can to keep the bulk down.

Virginia

[lizzieb]

I have pulled it - extruding it.  When the piece meets the end cap.  I hold the welting tight about 2 inches from the end then with needle nose pliers grab the end coming out of the piece and pull - the welting will get thinner at the end and eliminates the bulk when sewing to the end cap that also has the welting.

[Mike]

im not following llzzy but I agree with paul

[JuneC]

Mike, I gather what lizzieb is doing is, at the very end of the run, seriously stretching the polycord core using pliers to make it skinnier.   Lizzieb, doesn't that cause the vinyl or fabric to wrinkle when the core retracts?  I'd be afraid of ugliness down the road.

What I typically do when welting cords need to cross is to grab my razor blade or box cutter and shave the cord core in half at the point where it crosses.   

I also do this on coaming bolsters where welt runs over the top in the middle somewhere due to the design.  Most welting runs simply around the edges of bolsters, but occasionally a run will cross over the top, making the board not fit tightly against the hull.  "Skinnify" the welt core at that point and problem solved.

June

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

June

Thanks so much for your suggestion!  I'm working on replicating some very old cushions.  Instead of one piece of welting that goes around the cushion, each piece of fabric is welted, which means 3 pieces of welting butting together.  I'd tried several things and didn't like how they were laying.  Just finished trimming the welting as you described, sewed things together and I'm very satisfied with how this cushion will look when finished.

Thanks again!

Virginia

[Mike]

pics!

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

pics!

I don't have them finished yet, but will post pics when they are done.  I have taken the before shots already.

Virginia

[lizzieb]

Glad that you got them done to your satisfaction.  The extending method has worked well for me however, I might try the shaving method the next time.