sewing machine needle sizes

[edward]

  I need to buy some needles for my machine a Seiko (STH-8BLD-3). I manly sew vinyl and sew foam. The machine came with a few needles. They say Organ 22 on them. The booklet calls for DPx17. What sizes should I have? How does the numbering system work for needles? Thanks for helping out a newbie.

[baileyuph]

Edward that all sounds correct for the machine.  One way to generalize the understanding is the 22 relates to the heaviness (thickness) of the needle while the other nomenclature has more to do with the machine requirements (length and guage where it is inserted into the machine.

That is a common needle for a lot of machines made by Singer and their clones coming out of Japan.  I think it is correct to also understand that Organ is the brand.

Depending on thread size you use and to a degree the thickness of materials encountered will determine needle size you require (for example, a #20, #22, #24, #26).  Your machine will probably take smaller needles down to and including #16 or #18.  Sounds like you may be involved in auto or marine and I suspect your #22 will satisfy most of your needs.  Especially where welts are incorporated into seams.  No thick welts would permit a smaller needle.  I have one machine that uses your same needle and I hardly every need any size outside 20, 22.  I guess guage of the needle would be a common understanding to size of the needle.

Welcome to the group and happy stitches.  I guess your sew foam is 1/2 inch or less?

Doyle

[MinUph]

Here is a chart you might find helpful.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

[Highvelocity]

Does anyone else use a #19 or 20 with v138...?

[baileyuph]

Possibly a 20, sometimes.

The material weight drives the weight of thread being used, unless one is doing decorative top stitching.

Thread drives needle size but material weight drives thread size are the rules to obey unless there is a specialty issue related.

Normally I would expect to use a 22 needle with a thread that large.

There is a test one should perform when needle size for a thread is in question.  Take a needle of size in question and thread it on a needle (non installed needle) and note how the needle slides along the thread.  If the needle doesn't slide easily, then move to the next size needle and run the test again.  

Doyle

[edward]

 Thank you for all the help. I have ordered new needles (size 22). A sharp needles makes quite a difference. I wish I would have ordered more things with the needles, shipping is ridiculous. Half of what they cost.

[sofadoc]

shipping is ridiculous. Half of what they cost.

Here's 30 of 'em for $10.90 shipping included.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUKI-LU-562-LU-563-WALKING-FOOT-NEEDLES-30-EACH-22-/290723349144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b0764298

[MinUph]

Thank you for all the help.  A sharp needles makes quite a difference.

I never noticed that on an industrial machine. I can use the same needle for months with no problem unless I need to change size. Now on smaller machine like my embroidery machine that does matter. hmmm.

[edward]

I broke the needle I had in it. The one I  put in it, I had used to sew several heavy leather aprons, it was quite dull. I put in a fresh one and the machine just seems to run better. It could also be me learning to master a clutch motor?

[bobbin]

Late to the party, but here are some thoughts to add to the discussion.

I try to use the smallest needle I can whenever I can.  The smaller the holes, the least damage to any fabric.  Naturally, you have to consider the number of fabric thickness you routinely have to drive over... but if you only make 1 or 2 passes over a "lump" sometimes walking the needle through them is the best option. 

Vinyls and leathers:  use a wedge point needle.  This type of needle doesn't punch a hole in the goods; rather, it slices through the goods leaving 4 tiny cuts radiating out from the centre.  The idea is that the "flaps" created will fold around the thread and seal the puncture.  Make sense? (hard to describe). 

I routinely use a size 20 needle and #138 thread for "curtains".  That was the combination I used when I made the clear panels for my porch enclosure.  I didn't have to go through multiple layers of heavy fabric and the needle was adequately large to accommodate a thick thread in the application.  I start off with a "light" needle and bump it up a size if there is needle breakage under "normal" stitching.  Whenever I'm in doubt about needle sizing... I err on the side of caution... never stitch fast!

[hdflame]

Thank you for all the help. I have ordered new needles (size 22). A sharp needles makes quite a difference. I wish I would have ordered more things with the needles, shipping is ridiculous. Half of what they cost.

I buy my needles by the 100.  Much cheaper, and they don't go bad...no expiration date! lol

I've also found the best buy on needles is on eBay.  I usually always get FREE shipping.

[Mojo]

The vendor Dennis posted on e-bay is a good vendor. I have bought needles and feet from him and have always had good service. His prices typically are thew lowest you will find, especially when you consider shipping.

I use an 18 and 19 sized needle for acrylic. I sew with Solarfix 2000 which is a 138 sized thread. I subscribe to the same theory Bobbin does. I try and make the smallest hole possible to help eliminate any issues of weakening the fabric. This is very true with acrylic or vinyl.

I should say that for anyone who has never sewed with Solarfix or tenara, you can siometimes get away with alot of things, including using small needles.

I bought a huge lot of Titanium needles from Sharp Sewing in various sizes 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22 and 24. I have found the Titanium coated needles seem tpo stay sharp ;longer and are a little less likely to bend.

Chris