Boat Seat techniques

[Highvelocity]

I'm decided to do some boat seats in a Progression speedboat/performance seats.  My first attempt ended with a skin that was too tight and had way too many wrinkles.  I am thinking of sectioning it a bit more, make sure it will lay nicer.  I wanted to get some opinions though to make sure the second attempt goes better...  Does anyone sew up certain sections first, to see how it's going to come together? ...or?   The biggest problem was after I put the skin on was getting the arms to pull over, makes me to think the back section measurement was too tight etc.  Bucket seats have always been a challenge for me but I'm not giving up.

Thanks for any advice,
    Ed

[MinUph]

Pictures might help.
  With bucket seats tighter is usually better. Because there is not many places to "tack" you need to reply on a snug fitting cover.

[Mike]

adreed  tight and heat

[Highvelocity]

Here is a link to some Progression seats for sale.  If you scroll down, you can see these skins are not fitting real tight.  I am just wondering if I should go with the measurement as they are, and leave the 1/2 inch seam allowance alone?  Just thinking out loud, maybe taking the seam allowance in on the back panels and outer side panels screwed me up?    Maybe go get a roll of polyester and lay it on to smooth it out a bit  if need be...?  Also, They used a foam back vinyl on the original skins.



http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?168482

[JuneC]

IMHO, those skins are too loose.  Are you trying to get your skin on with heat and/or silk film? 

Doing a seat like that I typically will pattern and sew the middle sections first just to verify that my pattern for the inside arms are correctly sized and shaped.  Especially when you're doing tuck and roll stripes, if you're 1/8" off on each tuck and you repeat that 4 times, you're off by 1/2". 

June

[baileyuph]

To your questions Ed, yes every component needs to be checked before moving to subsequent join work.

On your work you talked about (not the pictures in link), just perform checks on the center piece and when it passes the mustard, move to the adjacent piece.  Check the arm alignments (inside arm) and look at it rationally to determine how things are lining up and fitting where they go.  Carefully unsew the inside arms and make sure which direction needs to be larger and same smaller.  Think a bit which way the stretch should be layed for the best fit.  It can be very beneficial to use the stretch properties to your advantage.

Regarding the link, it was noted that there are pieces that were cut to large, one example in the arm top band.  That would be easy to check after getting the pleats to lay straight (vertically and horizontally).  Then, you know the next step; the arm bands (boxing if you will).  The seat cushion is to be looked at after the inside and outside back are correct, probably not until.  

Direction of stretch is pretty much as important as anything for each individual panel.

Take your time and give thought to the process and it can become fun.

Doyle  

[MinUph]

Hey Ed,
  Yes the pieces are too large on the majority of the skins. The sewing is also a bit stretched in places. When you make your patterns be sure to use registration marks and when sewing make sure they line up. Stretching vinyl is very easy to do when sewing. Foot pressure on the machine can also cause this.
  With the roll and pleating remember, sew foam will not stretch the fabric is pretty stable but the vinyl will causing the puckering your experiencing. I would venture a guess that the vinyl for this was cut with the stretch going vertical. Generally this would be across the goods. Better allow the non stretch to be up and down so the puckers will pull our when the over is installed.
  Once you cut down the patterns to make them fit tight you may need heat to help with the install. One little trick I use when working with this sort of cover is after sewing your 1/2 seam cut the excess welt vinyl away leaving about a 1/16" from the sem. These will lay better and it won't come apart.
  Also when installing the covers like the seats pictured. Pin the centers in place and stretch to the end to fill out and take the stretch out before doing the rest of the front section. In general this is how all upholstery should be applied working from center and taking out the stretch before doing the rest.
  Hope some of this helps.

 

[Highvelocity]

Here are some actual pictures of what I'm working on.  The top of the seat is slightly different from the ones online because they are an older design which I am doing more like the updated ones. 

A lot of good advice, I am going to work very carefully from the inside out.  I have some super sticky basting tape from sailrite that I may employ to keep things in place and get the best possible measurements.  I think your right about the stretch, but the measurements probably need to be more consistent and better overall
Thanks for the tips, I know this shouldn't be an issue for me at this point but these seats are tricky for me.  I will put some pics up when I get the inside section done.  And I am going to go very slow...

Ed

[Darren Henry]

I have some super sticky basting tape from sailrite that I may employ to keep things in place and get the best possible measurements

Just a thought--- How hard would it be to modify the frame to accept a listing or pull vertically where the inside back meets the inside arm? Sure you'd have to attach it in stages as you roll the outside back down, but it should buy you some "forgiveness",no?

[MinUph]

Steam out that foam before you start.

[Grebo]

Steam out that foam before you start.

Very important. Makes a huge difference to the end result.

Suzi

[Highvelocity]

Daren H,
    I read what you wrote very carefully, and your idea should work and co-inside with the inside out technique others have mentioned.  I am going to start again on this tomorrow, just going to do the back and inside arms, then stop, I'll take some pictures.

The funny thing is, when I look at this job, it looks so straight forward, like it should be easy...lol 

I will hit it with the steam good  though before I try to put it on.

  Ed

[JuneC]

 Nothing straightforward about that seat at all....

Here's what I've also seen done in some wrap-around bolsters like that:  the lower, center seat back is a separately upholstered board that gets screwed to the seat back AFTER the headrest and arms are done.  The headrest and arms are pulled and stapled to the seat back.  Then the upholstered board is installed with screws, deep in the seams, that attach it to the back.  No wrinkles.  The 33' Hydrasports helm seats are done similar to this.

June

[Mike]

those are some awful examples ive seen and to diplay S WHAT YOR PAYING FOR lol
as seen when you have a while seat and contrasting piping as the blue shows you see every inperfection.  I like to kep it white. but I did do white with red once on my sutphen but you have to be real fussy with it

[Highvelocity]

You know what's kinda crazy too is, Proggression uses webbing and snaps to keep the skins on.  I told this customer I may not be able to use the snaps approach, he was ok with it.  I am not completely sure why snaps, I mean why not just take the seats out and store them inside for the winter.  I wouldn't want to take the skins on and off...