stretchy fabric

[crammage]

Ok, I'm having all sorts of issues with the fabric I'm currently working with for 10 parsons chairs with skirts.  It is a Robert Allen fabric and very expensive according to the designer that supplied it. 

The fabric stretches a lot.  For instance, the relaxes width of the fabric is 50" from selvedge to selvedge but easily extends 2-3" if you pull on one side and hold the other. 

My biggest issue is with the skirts.  I cut to the size I think I need and then end up after sewing with 1- 1.5 extra inches.  When I attach the skirts I start with the center, match the pattern and then pull the ends to where I think they're stretched about equal to the bottom, staple and install.

Fortunately the fabric responds well to steaming so I can sort out an wrinkles in the skirting pretty easily but what fussy stuff to work with.  It is also hard to keep the pattern consistent on the seat and back.  I center the seat fabric, attach to the front then start the sides and after a few staples have to come back to the front, adjust because the lines are no longer straight, shift the fabric around put in a few staples, check, repeat, repeat, repeat....

It's just taking longer to do these chairs due to the fabric than I originally estimated.

Here's some pictures of the fabric, 1. this is the relaxed cut piece, 2. this is after rubbing my hand across it a few times.  It stretched 1/2 inch just by rubbing my hand over it.  I did find that ironing the fabric helps to set it a little but I don't want to iron 40 yards of fabric!    :D

http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/crammage/media/002_zps0bec6ad2.jpg.html
http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/crammage/media/004_zpsca7d607d.jpg.html

[sofadoc]

I feel your pain.......BTDT.

Skirted Parson's chairs seem to take longer than they should anyway. And designers always seem to steer the client to a difficult fabric.

WF machines do tend to stretch that stuff as it sews. Do you have a high speed garment machine, or even a little "Suzy Homemaker-type" sewing machine? You might have better luck with one of them.

If it isn't already too late, save the legs for last. If you screw up a skirt panel, you can still use it to cover the legs. I've seen some skirted Parson's chairs that just had plain denim on the legs (under the skirt).

[bobbin]

I was tasked with a boxed daybed cushion  earlier this summer.  I went to the site and patterned the space (had to fit into a defined space).  I was handed a stonewashed linen.  NO problem, used the pattern, cut the goods and corded the pcs..  For some reason I put the pattern on the corded pcs. and found they'd "grown" by 1 1/2".  AHHHH!  I lifted the cording, cut down the pcs. and using defining marks on the welting reapplied it to the pcs. 

I damn near died when I saw the increase in overall length on the top and bottom pcs..  And I was LUCKY that I made the time to check the size relative to the pattern.  It could have turned into a first class nightmare.  But I was sternly reminded that checking yourself at every stage of the project can save your sorry ass upon completion!

I was able to determine that the fabric "grew" about 1 1/2" over 2 yds., so 3/4"/72".  But I had a pattern that clearly defined the exact size of the cushion, so there was no "guess work" involved. 

[crammage]

Yeah, it's been a pain but I have to remind myself to slow down and think through what I'm doing so I don't get so frustrated.  I do have a Viking/Husqvarna machine I could use, I usually use it for lighter weight fabrics since my WF machine doesn't do well with them.  It will take longer than my Chandler but for better control it could be worth it.  Thanks for the suggestion Sofadoc!

Clay

[gene]

Right click on the picture and hit "View Image" to see a big picture.

I did this chair on Monday. It's a very expensive, and very very stretchy fabric. And, it's a loose weave fabric. The seat cushion is a T with a rounded back: warp, waft, and bias sewing.

I may have gotten this idea from this forum, and if so, I'm sorry I can't give credit where credit is due.

I ran a small bead of adhesive fabric all around the edge on the wrong side of the pieces, let it dry, and it sewed quite well. I would not want to do this often, but when needed it helps a lot to keep the fabric from stretching.

You can use single sided interface but with the rounded back that gets to be a pain.

gene





PS: I got some garbage out of the can and threw it on the floor behind the chair so you folks wouldn't think I was a neat freak.

PPS: That pattern is off set a bit both V and H so the pattern is not symmetrical.

[sofadoc]

Right click on the picture and hit "View Image" to see a big picture.

What version of Windows are you guys using? When I right click, I don't get a "View Image" option. I have 2 laptops, one with Windows 7 Home Premium. The other with Windows 8. 

[DDandJ]

Clay I see you're using a rotary cutter and mat on upholstery fabric?  I've thought about investing in one but wasn't sure it would work on heavier fabrics.  The only people I know that use them are quilters.  What brand do you have?

And I agree with SofaDoc, I've found that some fabrics work better on my non-walking foot machine.  As a matter of fact, the last two skirted pieces I did I sewed the skirts panels on my regular machine.

Gene, great job on that chair!  I like to see other people's work.  Gives me something to aspire to :)

Jeremy

[brmax]

Gene im not picking up what your putting down on veiw instruction.
But any how it looks nice, can the bottom cushion be removed.

ps: i had practice plans for that material you threw back on the floor. by gosh! oh man

good day to ya

[gene]

SofaD: I have Windows Vista. My problem is with Photobucket. When I copy the links for my pics from Photobucket and paste here I try to cut out all the garbage on the links. Sometimes it gets to be a problem and I thought "right click" might be the solution.

Someone awhile back asked that we post a thumb and a big sized pic. That's what I've been trying to do.

It's this damn technology. If we didn't have computers we wouldn't have any computer problems.

gene

[sofadoc]

SofaD: I have Windows Vista. My problem is with Photobucket. When I copy the links for my pics from Photobucket and paste here I try to cut out all the garbage on the links. Sometimes it gets to be a problem and I thought "right click" might be the solution.

I've had that same problem with PB. When you paste an edited pic here, it reverts back to the unedited version. Here is a test:





I think the problem occurs when you try to "Save and replace". Just paste a separate edited pic.

[crammage]

Jeremy,  I actually have several cutting mats of different kinds and find they all work about the same.  Just received this blue one from Rochford Supply and worked good.  I can't tell you the name of the rotary cutter.  I like using them when I have to cut multiples of something or need to have precise sizes.  It goes faster than scissors and my hands don't get tired.

I just received a bias tape template from Missouri Star Quilt Company and used it on this fabric to cut the cording strips and decided it was the best thing since slice bread,  It saves time in that when you sew the strips together it has the 1/4" seam already figured into the process so I don't have to cut off the little triangles before I have to start sewing the welting together.  The only problem is it isn't really long.  Missouri Star Quilt Company has a tutorial on how to use it which is how I found out about it.

Here's a picture of one of the finished chairs.  Only have 2 left out of 10 total which will have to wait until I get back from Chicago next week.

http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/crammage/media/WP_20131004_003_zpscfe5c8af.jpg.html

This picture was before I finished steaming the skirts so they still flare out  a little bit.

Clay

[kodydog]

After reading the comments on this forum over the last three years I'm pretty sure everyone here strives for perfection. The problem is, in upholstery anyway, sometimes perfection eludes even the most talented craftsmen. Looking at your pics I'd say your pretty close.

Last year I did two large barrel type chairs with the dressmaker skirts that hang from top of the outside arm to the floor. The fabric was a micro fleece. One night I finished the first one and shut down the shop. When I returned that morning the skirts were sagging badly. That day I fixed them and finished the second chair and, once again retired for the evening. Next morning I had the same problem. To make a short story long, I discovered if I left the AC on over night the problem would not occur. I believe humidity was the problem. Delivery day they went from my air conditioned shop to my ice cold van and into the customers house. Never a complaint. Whew!

[DDandJ]

Nice job on the chair, Clay.  I like the buttoned back.  I'll check out the rotary cutters you mentioned.  I'm all about anything that will make cutting strips faster.

Jeremy

[sofadoc]

I tried the hand rotary cutter and self-healing mats for a few years. The problem I had was that the mats developed slits along the edges where you butted them together for long runs (such as strips of welt).

I have since gone to the electric rotary cutter, trashed the mats, and never looked back. This is the one that I have. I'm still using the blade that came with it almost 2 years ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allstar-AS-100K-Electric-Rotary-Fabric-Cutter-w-Sharpener-Safety-Finger-Guard-/271293879320?pt=BI_Textile_Equipment&hash=item3f2a601418

[Dede]

I ran a small bead of adhesive fabric all around the edge on the wrong side of the pieces, let it dry, and it sewed quite well.

Gene, could you possibly expand on this?  I'm not actually sure what "adhesive fabric" is, and how you could run a bead of it.