Sewing zipper in cushion cover - i.e. furniture

[bobbin]

The way I set up my work I never have to cut through more than the welting (two layers) and my Wiss snips are definitely up to the task.  I keep them sharp, though.  And they have a set screw that allows you to adjust the way the blades pass each other.  I have no use for the model that has "replaceable blades", never found that they worked well for anything more than just thread. 

I do a ton of cushion work and after finishing a layout and doing the cut I move on to the zipper boxings and attaching them to the regular boxing and forming the "slider garage".  I then welt all the pcs., and move on to the assembly.  So, I don't have to cut through 4 or more layers of fabric while the work is under the needle. 

What was the cool scissor sharpener you shared with us, Sofa.?  I haven't been able to remember and recently it's crossed my mind a couple of times.  I think I'd like to own one of those. 

[sofadoc]

Yeah, technically I seldom have to snip through more than 2 layers. But the nippers that I have won't even do that.

Here's that scissor sharpening gadget:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200431964_200431964
I think this tool is great for people that DON'T have a talent for sharpening with a stone (like ME). But if you ARE good with a stone, you might be disappointed with the edge you get with the Worksharp tool. It definately changes the angle of the blades. I'm happy with the tool, but I'd say that it probably isn't for everyone.

[bobbin]

My "snips" are kept sharp.  And they're able to reliably handle 9oz. Sunbrella, but I've never hesitated to snip one layer at a time, either!  I keep a pair of tailor points on my tool cart, too. 

Tailoring is ALL about know how to "clip", "notch", "slash" when it's time to deal with a curve or turn a corner.  And the trade has a specific pair of scissors to make it easy.  Tailor points are conventional scissors with stout, short blades.  Little effort is required to make neat, precise, controlled bites into fabric.  Look for them! and make sure you keep the blades sharp.  I have mine sharpened once a month (thanks for the hot tip, Sofa.!).  They're worth their weight in gold, you guys.  Trust me on this. 

I do a lot of cushion work and I frequently have to deal with contrast welting.  I prestitch all welting to the tops/bottoms of cushions.  Some may think that a waste of time, but I like doing it that way so I'm able to make sure the top/bottom are nice and flat, smooth as a glass (baby's ass?). 

When I have to notch the corners of a cushion that has no welting (but will be topstitched) I use my tailor points.  And when I have a series of cushions in a job that all require the same topstitch treatment I do all the notching at the same time... AFTER I've stitched the boxing and BEFORE I topstitch!  The more you combine the same step on multiple pcs. the more efficient your time at the machine will be.  This is esp. important for those of you with clutch motors and who don't have a knee lifter!

[gene]

I'm working with a micro fiber that does not fold very easily and I cannot use steam of heat.

I made 8 furniture cushion zippers today using the technique Mike showed on his video. It saved me a lot of time from having to wrestle with folding the fabric the way I usually do it.

Once again, I am grateful for this forum.

Thanks,

gene