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serger

Started by chrisberry12, January 27, 2013, 08:22:35 am

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chrisberry12

Ok,

Next machine question. Do you use a serger or overlock machine (industrial) and which ones do you recommend. I was previously using a 3 thread Merrow. Looking forward to reading your comments.

Thank you,
CBerry

bobbin

"Serger" is a generic term that properly describes a 3 thread overlock stitch.  A Merrow machine does a 3 thread overlock stitch (I haven't used one in years and can't recall if they can be set to perform a 2 thread overlock stitch). 

Machines that also perform a safety stitch (2 thread chain stitch that is to the inside of the overlock stitch) are properly called 4 or 5 thread overlock machines.  4 thread overlocks use a 2 thread overlock stitch (needle and a spreader), 5 thread machines offer the 3 thread overlock (one needle and 2 loopers).  The benefit of a 3 thread overlock is that it's secure enough to join pieces in clothing construction, typically knits and commonly knits with lycra/stretch yarns (think in terms of swimwear, dancewear, lingerie, etc.).  2 thread overlock stitches are actually chain stitches and when the sequence is broken in the crucial place can be easily ripped out by pulling the threads opposite each other, which makes them unsuitable for secure seaming.  Got all that? ;)

I have a 5 thread overlock machine.  It's an oldie, a Wilcox & Gibbs 500-4  type 515-4-51.  It's likely from the late 1970s (the bench is green "linen") and I bought it in 1985 at a factory liquidation.  It originally was a 4 thread overlock, but I had the spreader replaced with another looper so it now does a 3 thread overlock (I come from a clothing background).  It has a differential feed option (most overlocks do) and it's fast and reliable; I've replaced a knife but that's it in nearly 30 yrs..  I also used to operate a Brother 5 thread in a production setting in the '80s and that was a very nice machine, too (it had pneumatically operated trimming capacity which was crucial in manufacturing).  I've never used a Juki overlock but it they're anything like their other equipment they're probably very nice. 

Other older brands include:  Rimoldi, Yamato, Union Special.  I would do my homework before signing on to those.  Make sure the parts are "universal" and not entirely specific to the make; Wilcox & Gibbs was part of Pfaff Pegasus for some time before fading from the scene.  Union Special has been bought up, too (Juki?), not sure about Rimoldi or Yamato. 

sofadoc

I would consider acquiring an overlock machine if I thought that I'd get enough use out of it.

3 times in the last few years, I've bought supplies, tools, and inventory from shops that went out of business.
There's always a serger gathering dust in the corner. I asked them what they used it for..........."Nuthin".

Bobbin's talents are much more diverse (than mine, anyway), as evidenced by her explanation of the different types/uses of sergers.

I could see using one for hemming fabrics that ravel. Some skirt panels, and the inside raw edge of fitted arm covers.
But I'm afraid that I wouldn't use it enough to justify the space that it would occupy.

TWO QUESTIONS ABOUT OVERLOCK MACHINES AS THEY APPLY TO FURNITURE UPHOLSTERY:
1)  Do you guys roll it out of the way most of the time?
2)  What specific uses could I expect to get from it?

There's a degree of uncertainity when buying any used sewing machine. With an overlock/serger, I'm 3,4,5 times as uncertain. That's mainly why I've passed on buying them when I had the chance.
"Perfection is the greatest enemy of profitability" - Mark Cuban

bobbin

Not an upholsterer.  (don't play one on TV, either)

The thing about OVERLOCKS is that once you have one you find uses for them all the time!  Before I owned one I used to do flat felled seams when I wanted a "clean" finish... running it through the overlock was a huge time saver.  Ditto hems... no need to apply tape to a raw edge or fuss with adjusting the blindstitch to accept a folded allowance and then have to readjust it to accept a silk!  Time is (and remains) money. 

My 5 thread OVERLOCK is in a fully submerged bench which means that the working surface of the machine is at bench level.  Sometimes overlocks are mounted on top of the bench and there is no flat work surface (this is common on blindstitch machines, too).  Merrow machines are commonly mounted above the bench surface, BTW. 

My W&G is part of my workroom.  The bench top is level with my rolling work tables.  It's always "ready to go" and because it is I use it frequently.  Maybe I use it so much because I come from a background where such a machine was necessary... dunno.  If you are considering an OVERLOCK and don't want to dedicate limited floorspace to a bench machine keep your eyes peeled for a used "home" machine (I'm toying with buying a "home" coverstitch for this very reason).  Try it out and don't think it'll last forever.  If you like what you've bought move on up to an industrial.  I can't imagine not having one, personally!