Which Button Technique (to be used)?

[baileyuph]

Example, kitchen chair upholstered back, both sides, with two buttons installed
on the inside back which is wrapped with one inch foam on both sides of a plywood back, approximately a half inch thick.

During tear down,  I noted that the two buttons were equipped with serrated nails and driven into the wood, directly from the front side.

Which technique would you use in your business to reinstall those two buttons that are covered in matching fabric?

I don't think I can make a button exactly like the factory did, because any button I would make, with a nail would be bent when hammered in.  The factory button, in review did have a special cap that would prevent the bending of the button when hit with a hammer.     

One could drill a hole in the back and tie the button, but it would mean tearing the foam and then repairing it after the button is installed.  That is a possibility but will be tedious for obvious reason; the tie would have to occur while slipping the back upholstery on the back rest.

Another idea would be to drill through the backrest and using the slip retainer with a string tied to it and tie it at the front side.  There is a trade name for this retainer which eludes me at the time (over 40 now).

The last idea may be the ticket, since I don't think I have the hardware of making a nail equipped button suitable for hammering into the wood, without bending the cap of the button mold.  In general business, we have button requirements still but not like it was several years ago as they have sort of gone out of style.  It is due to lack of button activity, I will review my button/die inventory to see what I have.  Sometimes I forget what all I have.  LOL.


Any how, I don't want to buy a suppy of buttons for this project for there will be only 8 buttons required.

Any ideas, hope this is clear enough?  Probably most of the furniture professionals here have run across this issue and will have input.   Meanwhile, I do need to review my button capabilities.

Doyle

[sofadoc]

If you can wait a few days to finish the job, I can send you a couple dozen "No-Dent" nail buttons. I have them in size 30, or 36. The 36's have a 3/4" shank, the 30's are 1".

But if you need to finish now, I've had pretty good luck in the past with a drill bit going through foam. Spray some silicone on the drill bit, and just go slowly and carefully. Is there room to mark your hole, and staple around it so the foam underneath doesn't wrap around the drill bit?
I've also made a hole using an oversized nail.

You might be able to save the old backs by carefully picking the shell off, like this:

[kodydog]

I'm not sure I understand. Why can't you pre drill the holes into the plywood then upholster the backs. They slip on right? Then poke the buttons through after their upholstered.

Just reread your post. My method would require buttons on the front and back. Would the customer approve?

[baileyuph]

Great responses guys.  The slick thing to do would be like the factory did, the button size is in a 22.

Like I said, I am over 40, not young like Gene, but let me go through my stuff and verify what i have.  I use to do tons of work in buttons and a nail button might be there on the button table and I have done less button work lately and just need to refresh my memory.

The button on both sides would be slick, this gal is one I probably should run something by before doing that.  Right now she thinks I am a pretty good guy.

Dennis, do you have the buttons w/nails in a 22?

My material is on order and the chairs won't be worked for maybe a week from now or a day or so longer.

I just finished  8 bar stools for a new tavern, now that is some work. The stools, of course bottoms and curved backs took about 8yd, I figured 7.5yd.  You know the rest, but got more on order before finishing up, so the half yard error didn't slow the project.  Now, the new tavern owner saw an awning on another tavern and asked him where he got it, yep!  There is now an awning on schedule for the tavern that got the 8 stools.  Making those, I find require fair amount of precision, they had like slices and fringe around he bottom in a scallop fashion.

Oh well, thanks guys thanks for letting me pick your brains.  I find no matter how long I do this stuff there is still something else to learn.  Someday I will write it down because surely I won't remember all these valuable comments.

Doyle

[sofadoc]

Dennis, do you have the buttons w/nails in a 22?

I have the #22 backs with just a hole in the middle that you put a #14 tack through, and cover with a liner.

In a pinch, you can make them yourself by cutting the eye loop off a regular wire-eye back with dikes, and then driving a #14 tack, or small head nail through. Then make a liner out of cardboard tack strip to prevent denting when you nail the button down.

Let me know if you want some of the 22's with the hole.

Also, I think I have some of the #22 "clinch mold"  backs (the ones with the corrugated shank that catches on a clinch washer). Sometimes, you can use them as a regular nail button if you make a pilot hole in the wood first. Without a pilot hole, they bend easily.

[baileyuph]

Good comprehensive coverage of doing buttons like this Dennis.  I am sure I have the #14 tack, with carboard form in shell to prevent bending, but there is another technique that I think you are aluding to that could be used.  I have been running hard lately to get it all in, but when things start coasting, I will get the correct terminology for the method of inserting a retainer with the string tied and poking it through a hole or merely padding in some cases and then tighten the button and tying it off from the finish side.  Lastly, then trim the string.

Interesting stuff, thanks.


Doyle

[sofadoc]

but there is another technique that I think you are aluding to that could be used.  I have been running hard lately to get it all in, but when things start coasting, I will get the correct terminology for the method of inserting a retainer with the string tied and poking it through a hole or merely padding in some cases and then tighten the button and tying it off from the finish side.  Lastly, then trim the string.

You're probably talking about the "Timesaver" tufter and clasps.
It's the one that looks like a syringe, and after poking it through, you push the plunger to release the clasp.
Here's a video of a similar one (no plunger):