Pirelli webbing and contemporary furniture

[bobbin]

I have been asked to reweb a set of contemporary furniture (chair, "ottoman", sofa).  Have NO idea about the stuff used in place of webbing and springs.  It has Pirelli rubber webbing and they're all old, dry, and there is no support left in the "webbing" strips.  The webbing is simply stapled to the frame... really basic (right).

I know the webbing is still available.  But:
1.)   how do you determine how long to cut the strips?
2.)   how do you determine how much tension to put on them to get the right amount of support for the seat?
3.)  should I use the metal end thingys or just staple the webbing to the frame as they did originally?

[sofadoc]

I don't use the rubber webbing anymore. I replace it with a synthetic webbing called "Elastabelt". I staple it.
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Webbing/Furniture_Webbing/index.html
With the Elastabelt, I staple on one end, and pull as tight as possible, and staple the other end. The Elastabelt lasts infinately longer than the rubber webbing.

[bobbin]

About pulling the webbing... do you really crank down on it, nearly pulling the strapping taut, or do you leave some "give" in the straps?  Do you use a webbing stretcher to do the job?  (I have one but I've never used it).

There is an articulated cushion/seat combination to sit on the webbing/strapping and I'm actually looking forward to making that!

[sofadoc]

You can use your judgement in how much "give" to leave in the webbing.
If you pull it super tight, you might as well just put a piece of plywood under the cushion. I misspoke when I said "pull it as tight as possible"
You were asking about the "metal end thingys". They're called "V" clips (because they're V shaped BEFORE you crimp them). They can only be used if the frame has a slotted hole for them to go into.
If the job you're doing was stapled originally, then I assume that it doesn't have the slotted holes. So the clips would do you no good.

I haven't tried to order Pirelli rubber webbing in many, many moons.
There was a discussion on the Carrscorner board recently about how scarce Pirelli webbing was getting. Some even speculated that it might be soon discontinued.

[MinUph]

Pirelli webbing I believe no longer exists by the original manufacturer. We have ordered some that has taken it's place from Burch Co. $100.00 per roll. It is close to the original but lacks the woven look seen on the edge of the original but feels and works the same.
  Elastibelt is a better solution as I see the longevity of it outlasting pirelli type. The only time I would use the pirelli is when the frame does have the slots as mentioned by SD. It is a cleaner install than stapling.

[bobbin]

Thanks for the insight into the flexible webbing.  The stuff on the chair in question has about zero stretch left in it, it's really dry.  It is stapled to the frame, so I will do the same thing. 

What do you use to keep the tension on the strips so they can be stapled on the second side?  There are probably a lot of little time saving tools that I don't know about. 

[sofadoc]

What do you use to keep the tension on the strips so they can be stapled on the second side? 

I staple the first end on the rear of the seat, and then pull tightly toward me, and staple with one hand while holding it tight with the other. When you pull it towards yourself, wrap it over the front of the frame. This will help prevent slippage while you're stapling.
It's best to turn the ends down and staple, as the Elasbelt webbing will ravel. On the front edge, I staple a few times to hold it, then cut it off a few inches beyond that. Then turn the end under and finish stapling.
Too many staples is the same as sewing the same seam so much that it gets needle-cut. And they recommend to drive the staples at a 45 degree angle.

The stuff on the chair in question has about zero stretch left in it, it's really dry.

I've never got a job with rubber webbing in that WASN'T that way. That's why I can't justify the cost of Pirelli webbing. In many cases, it only lasts 2-3 years.

There is a specific tool made for stretching Elasbelt webbing, but I've never had one. It sorta looks like a belt buckle with rollers. Also, Osborne makes a #263 Rubber and elastic webbing stretcher.

BTW  I previously referred to it as Elas-TA-belt, but I see that the brand name is Elasbelt.

[MinUph]

I don't turn elastabelt or whatever its called. I put 5 staples in it making sure the staples over lap the edges and then put 4 or 5 more in a second row. Never comes loose. I don't like the bulk of turning it. This was explained to me when the product first came out back in the 70s or 80s.

[sofadoc]

I don't turn elastabelt or whatever its called. I put 5 staples in it making sure the staples over lap the edges and then put 4 or 5 more in a second row. Never comes loose. I don't like the bulk of turning it. This was explained to me when the product first came out back in the 70s or 80s.

That's interesting. I was told to turn it under by a supply salesman way back when. But what you say makes sense. I'll try that next time. There are some cheaper "knock-off" versions of Elasbelt that do ravel easily (probably why some recommend to turn the raw edge under).

[dmayo]

We used a lot of it in the factory i worked in, 3in for seats and 2in for backs staple one end to the seat take the slack out ( we would stretch it a little better than a 1/3 some of the webbing has less or more stretch so this may change a little) so if the seat is 9in from rail to rail we would mark the webbing about 4 from the rail pull to the mark staple, cut from the roll leave some extra and fold the tag end over and staple. You want to keep the tension the same on all the roll's of webbing so the seating feels the same.
  We would put 3 rows of webbing front to back and 2 across per seat
(3 for ch, 6 loveseat and 9 sofa)
Hope this helps
Darrell