Fabric Industry

[baileyuph]

Furniture fabrics, in general, ravel along cut edges, particularly chenille type.

Working with this type reduces the confidence level in what is being restored. 

For those with a deeper understanding of the fabric industry, is this just the way it is or is the solution to merely buy a higher grade of fabric?

Is the ravel issue merely related to the bonding isn't done to the material to keep prices down? 

A better grip on this issue is essential to putting out quality work. If most fabrics are just this way then it is time to stop using them.  If better fabrics, chenilles, are available, I would like to know.  Seems a backing or bonding on the back of the material is missing. 

What are others doing with fabrics as I have described, avoiding them?

Thanks,

Doyle

[sofadoc]

I do a lot of warranty repairs for a local furniture store. They are constantly bringing in chenille cushions that have raveled past the seam. Of course, without replacement fabric, all I can do is "take up" the seam, and re-sew.
On these, I dial down to a very tight stitch, and spray NO-Fray  spray along the hem.
At first, I expected the cushions to be back in a few weeks with the same problem.
But they seem to hold up better than factory original. It leads me to conclude that if the factories had employed a tighter seam to begin with, the problem might not have occurred.
But for new jobs, I don't have an answer (other than a wider seam allowance, and a tighter stitch).
I've had a few problems. Funny though, it always seems to be on the seat cushions. Never on any of the attached frame. The customers always insist that they haven't been throwing the cover into the washing machine, but I'm sometimes skeptical.
As for the theory that the fabric mills aren't putting the "finish" treatments on materials like they used to, it wouldn't suprise one bit if that's true.

[byhammerandhand]

I had to do an inspection on a  couple of pieces last year with this problem.  While I could write it up to Mfr defect, I did some research to see if there was any practical solution for the pieces in  question

http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Minimizing-Seam-Slippage-2-12-10.pdf

more information by googling the topic:
http://www.google.com/search?q=seam+slippage&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

[Dede]

If it's a cushion, wouldn't it be faster just to serge the edges of the plates and boxing?  Assuming you have a serger, of course.  I started out serging all my cushion pieces until I realized it's usually overkill, but then you get those chenilles...

T-cushions are a little more challenging to serge, with those inside corners, but certainly not impossible.

[sofadoc]

I've seen some factory jobs where they use what looks like ordinary masking tape on the seam before they sew it. But that may be more for preventing fabric crawling than seam raveling.
On some warranty repair jobs, I've even used clear fingernail polish on the inside hem and seam (but it would take a million of those little bottles to do an entire set of cushions :D).

[Ihavenoname]

I try to avoid un-raveling fabrics. But  surge them or I also use a carpet backing latex glue called Touchdown #710 kwik-seam latex adhesive. If you put a small bead on your seam allowance before or after sewing, you will be good. It is designed for woven carpet repair and will hold so you only need a little. And if you make a mistake it will not come out. It's smells like ammonia. If you get it on your hands just rub your hands together and it balls up and falls off. 100 and one uses for fabric and carpet.

Here is where I get it from. A quart will last you years.

http://www.tasupply.com/index.php

[Steve at Silverstone Fabrics]

Doyle, In my current fabric business, we process 100's of yards of fabric per week. I have everything from Chinese fabric to Donghia come through my shop.

Here is my thoughts on the "ravel" issues....it has to do with the density of the weave.

I just purchased a 50 yard roll of a "middle of the road" chenille and it was like picking up a bolt of "air".....it was that light. A short time later I had to move a 30 yard roll from Maharam..... I bet the Maharam piece was twice as heavy as the 50 yard roll.

The reason for the difference (other than the  true wholesale of the 50 yard roll was $17/yard and the Maharam is over $60) is the 50 yard roll is a pretty fabric with a latex backing and the mill used the latex  to "fill in the gaps" between the loose weave. The piece from Maharam has an extremely tight weave and almost doesn't need a backing.

When I had an active shop, we used several of the techniques that have already been mentioned....one that hasn't is, cutting a 3/4" seam allowance on your cushions tops and your boxing.

Steve

[baileyuph]

Steve,

The Maharam weave was nice and dense as you said and really didn't need a backing.  So, I am interpreting that it indeed it did not have a backing because it didn't need such?

All that being true, the Maharam wouldn't require an extra wide selvage.

Also, in case one would want to obtain the nicer stuff, what distributor would one contact?  Or is it just simply talk to any of them and ask it they handle the Maharam?

I paid a bit more than the lowest price you mentioned on the 50 yd roll, it looked nice just ravelled a bit more than I am comfortable with.  So, it must be, in terms of quality, between your lowest and your much higher Maharam.

Thanks,

Doyle

[kodydog]

As some of you know I'm in S. Fl working for a decorator only work room. Last week a 3 pc. sectional they did several months ago came back. The chenille fabric was coming apart at the seams. The customer insisted that all three pieces be completely reupholstered.

The decorator ordered the same fabric but this time had it backed. The difference was like night and day. Not a single unravel while we were working on it. The bad part is my boss had to eat the labor cost. The decorator said he should have told her it needed to be backed. He was ticked but said he would make it up in future jobs.

The other thing is, when they brought the pieces back, it was so full of dog hair and grime it was two shades darker. The other upholsterer and I jumped on it and got it out in two days. Sure looks good now.

[Steve at Silverstone Fabrics]

KodyDog......Let's get this straight, the decorator buys the fabric and supplies it to your boss, tells him to use it and then blames him when it doesn't work..........I bet that is the 1st time that have every happened....NOT!

My father was an upholsterer and shop owner for over 40 years. Here is his favorite joke: "What do you have when you have 100 interior designers buried up to their necks in sand?......A good start!"

FYI: Remember that if you call a "decorator" an interior designer, they will see it as a compliment.......but God help you, if you ever call an "Interior Designer" a decorator....you might as well have spit on them.

What is the difference? An Interior Designer has a degree and special schooling. A decorator, is the doctors wife that has a "flare" for design.

In future posts, I will share some of my adventures with interior designers and interior designer wanna bee's. Steve

[sofadoc]

What is the difference? An Interior Designer has a degree and special schooling. A decorator, is the doctors wife that has a "flare" for design.

Exactly! I don't have any "Interior Designer's" with a storefront location anymore. But I still have a few "Decorator's" (bored housewives that know how to coordinate colors). And come to think of it, their husbands are doctors!
Problem is, while they may know how to mix and match fabric colors, they really have no concept of what will be practical on a job. They may send a paper thin fabric for a recliner, or maybe a super thick fabric on a job that has a lot of gathers. Or a plaid for a channelback chair.
I have one decorator who strictly shops the "Bargain bins" for material.
It's up to me to work around all of the flaws. And she certainly doesn't pass on the bargain prices to her customers.
Around here, the only special qualification you need to be a decorator, is a sales tax ID.