Sewing Channel Pleats in fabric backed foam

[baileyuph]

Needless to say, most requirements are straight seams but do not have to be.  The mainline question here is when doing channeling in materials, as said;  What is best to mark  the sew lines in white materials(vinyl and/or light colored cloth)?

Funny to pass along, a second grader heard me voice this question - which was:  If one
even lightly pencils the sew lines on the upholstery material, what do you use to erase the pencil lines (very light lines mind you)?  The second grader's quick comment was:  " use an
eraser!" 

This struck me as so smart of the student.

I have used special markers but never was pleased with those at my disposal. 

Back to the question:  "Any great solutions to the rescue?"

Often, a piece of sharp chalk gets me through the issue, but can get tough.

Just erase!

LOL

Doyle

[sofadoc]

I do all marking from the back side, and sew with the work upside down. I usually mark with a yellow lumber crayon. Or just white chalk.

[MinUph]

Chalk is always the safest as far as I know. What your sewing also has a bearing on the marking. If just flat work where you are sewing straight through the mark then chalk should probably be used if at all possible but if sewing like tuck and roll pleats the mark would be folded in the filling as well burried so a marker could be used. At least the way I sew them. I mark the back of the vinyl and fold on the line sewing onto a slot in the foam. The mark is then buried in the slot. White on the other hand requires special handling and chalk once again is king.

[Darren Henry]

I always keep yellow (or other coloured) chalk on hand for this. I have had it leave a residue if left on the fabric for extended periods if time so I blow it off as soon as I am done sewing.

[baileyuph]

Good coverage on the issue guys - Thank!

Most pleats have been covered; channel, roll and pleat in the grove.  I was doing auto with the top stitched type in white vinyl.  I used white chalk but it was faint to enable getting the chalk off easier.

I like the idea of (easy to get off) yellow but will verify the getting it off issue.

Most of what I do is auto and requires high degree of accuracy, so will definitely try the yellow.

The idea of drawing it on the back side of cloth is very good.  I suspect that would be a furniture top stitch or design type of requirement.

The tuck and roll sewn in the groove, will work well because it is enclosed.

I don't do as much of this type of work as in the past - expensive I suppose.

Doyle

[BlueFlamingo]

I have a slightly different method.  I used to sew on the back side but always preferred the top. Sooo, I use 3/4" masking tape and offset it so I can follow the edge of the tape with the side of the walking foot.  It works great. I mark the top and bottom in the selvage area and then stretch the tape between the two marks.  Hope that all makes sense.

[baileyuph]

Tape as a seam alignment, never tried that.  That would work, mark beginning and end, plus one could mark a center point just to keep accuracy.

Your use is on vinyl, it is assumed.  Have you tried it on cloth?

Modern factory capability would involve a bunch of needles calibrated, makes me wonder
just how many needles they do use in parallel?  Whatever it takes to do one pass for an entire run, I suppose.

The tape is another good idea.

Doyle

[BlueFlamingo]

I use Blue Tape on Vinyl and the Old Tan Tape on Cloth.  Works equally as well.