Question on Barber Shop Chair Backs

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

LOL on me!  I was just sure that I wouldn't run into anything that I hadn't seen before on these chairs.  Seats are waterfall design and as expected.  Chair backs are throwing me for a loop.  Most of the seamed area is hidden by the frame of the chair.  Held in place by 2 screws at either end.  Top of the seat back has about 1/2" flexible cardboard type material under the fold (don't know the name of the stuff but I have a roll so no problem).  The top has a soft curve into the side and that is where the problem comes in.  I don't know what the stuff is called even that holds the curves into place.  Has "teeth" that sinks into the back side of the upholstery and the opposing side has small holes that you staple into the frame.  I was pretty careful when I removed this stuff so that I think I can reuse.  I'd try and buy a roll of it if I knew what the heck it is called even.  My question though is how do I install this stuff?  Do I staple it into the frame and then go back and catch the teeth into the fabric and fold it over?  Feeling like an idiot on this one.  I'm sure it is simple enough if you know what the correct procedure is supposed to be.

Thanks for anyone who can answer my addle brained question!

Virginia

[sofadoc]

It goes by different brand names. Pli-grip, Flexgrip, or Curve Ease. You can get it in 2 tooth or 3.  

You staple it to the frame first, then partially fold it, trim your fabric, tuck it in and hammer it down.

[MinUph]

Pligrip has 2 prongs (junk) Curve Ease has three (good) You wont want to reuse this stuff as the prongs get hammered down when its used.

[byhammerandhand]

I have "reused" it, but only when I needed to remove the OB panel, then reattach it.   I found the teeth can get a little crushed down, so before I start putting fabric on, I take my awl and push all the teeth that have gone crooked back out (from the back side).   If you have to remove it to the the inside back or a welt strip off, I'd probably just not fuss with it and install some new strips. Cheap enough if you can find a local supplier.

Roll the film, Dave, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EyaBF1FYz8

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Thanks for the info.  Mine does have three prongs.  I'll look around and see what I can find locally; otherwise I'll order some on-line.  I can be getting everything sewn while I wait for shipping if need be.  I should finish cutting vinyl today.  Hopefully I can find it locally as I want to keep on track with this project.

Virginia

[sofadoc]

Most suppliers sell it by the 100 ft. roll, or a 5 roll case. You can buy it in light or heavy, as well as 2 or 3 prong. Usually around $13-$15 per roll, or $65-$70 per case.

Unlike the guy in Hammer's YT video, I don't use my fabric scissors to cut it with. I keep an old pair just for cutting Pli-grip.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

I found an auction on eBay buying by the yard and so bought 3 yards.  Shipping was under $3 and the buy yard price was $1.30 per yard.  Didn't really want to buy a huge roll of this stuff since this is my first time using it so doesn't seem like I'll be using a tremendous amount of it.  Should have it by the end of the week so will get a lot of sewing done while I wait for it and then be ready to "make hay while the sun shines" as the old saying goes. 

Thanks for all of your advice!

Virginia

[kodydog]

Curve Ease was invented for production work. It takes the place of hand sewing on a curve. In a pinch you could hand sew the fabric in place. There is a bit of a learning curve when using this stuff, where to start it where to stop it, how close to the seam to place it,  but I'm sure you'll figure it out.

I know upholsterers who use it for everything, even straight runs, instead of tack strip, which makes it a real pain for the next guy who has to strip it down.

You might want to buy a whole roll as you will run into this situation many times as you go along.

[Darren Henry]

I don't use my fabric scissors to cut it with. I keep an old pair just for cutting Pli-grip.

I use my tin snips. Odds are they are right handy anyway to cut the back tacking strips, so even my old scissors stay sharp.

I've been burned cutting the material while it is just laying there like in the video because it moved on me while I was looking the other way. I like to tack the material in a couple of places and tuck it into the curve-eze in a couple of places and then cut. Over cautious ?? Depends how much left over fabric you have if you mess up LOL.

[sofadoc]

BTW I learned this here on this forum several years ago.

Once you open a roll of Pli-grip, it's easy for it to get tangled. So I keep it on a piece of plywood secured by Velcro. I also keep my old scissors with it. I wish I had something similar for No-sag springs.

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

I have "reused" it, but only when I needed to remove the OB panel, then reattach it.   I found the teeth can get a little crushed down, so before I start putting fabric on, I take my awl and push all the teeth that have gone crooked back out (from the back side).   If you have to remove it to the the inside back or a welt strip off, I'd probably just not fuss with it and install some new strips. Cheap enough if you can find a local supplier.

Roll the film, Dave, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EyaBF1FYz8

Thanks for the link Keith.  This afternoon's project is to get the ply grip portion done and then the chair reaassembled.    I use tack strip at the top of the chair and just about 6 inches around the bend of the chair back.  No welting on this side of the chair -- a tad weird but I'll figure it out.  I've been more than a little slow this week.  Leg wears out quickly I'm discovering.  This too shall pass I hope.

Virginia

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

The link was extremely helpful.  Knee gave out before I could finish but I've got the drill, given the difference in project and the video.  Seeing the video just made placement a piece of cake.

Thanks again.

Virginia

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

As I said before, this chair back is a different from Keith's example.  No welting and just a portion of the chair is done (just the top back corners).  I got both pieces stapled in waiting for a customer.  Went down after lunch to stretch the vinyl.  I didn't pull the vinyl correctly the first try so had to replace one side.  But did both sides correctly after that.  Not real difficult -- getting the vinyl stretched correctly is key.  I'll get the back screwed back into the chair this afternoon and call customer tomorrow after we get done with the M. Day houpla to see if he wants to bring chairs over tomorrow or Monday. 

I just had him bring one over as that gave him 4 for customers to use.  I got all vinyl cut and most of the stitching done.  He'll bring 2 and pick up this one.  Once those two have been upholstered, we'll swap out for the remaining 2 and that keeps his inconvenience down to a minimum.

Only thing I need to do is cut and sew the armrests.  Chairs don't currently have padded armrests so I did a swag on them and they turned out pretty good.  I'll take pictures of this chair before it leaves and one of the 2 chairs that we're working on.

Virginia

[byhammerandhand]

so as not to disturb SWMBO, I re-watched this with sound off and auto-captioned.   

Good for a laugh trying to get what the guy said.

Roll the film, Dave, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EyaBF1FYz8

[Virgs Sew n Sew]

Dax came over yesterday to pick up chair number one and drop off the next two and was very pleased.  Need to charge the battery in my camera so that I can take pictures of the "before and after".  The frames were just as clean and shiney as can be and the back was a pretty decent curve -- much better than the originals, at least in my opinion. 

Since I'm bouncing back and forth between other projects (most notably alterations on a wedding dress with a Memorial Day wedding date), it will be mid next week before chairs 4 and 5 are finished.  I wrapped and padded the arm rests and they came out quite nice.

Anyway, thanks again to everyone who gave me advice on my questions!

Virginia