Morris Style

[SteveA]

Thanks for suggestions - should I web the bottom or substitute new springs on the existing platform ? 

[MinUph]

If the base platform is solid I'd use it. No worries of stretching out or wearing out with the wood.

[Darren Henry]

Ditto.

[kodydog]

Are those slats original or just a temporary fix by an amateur? The nice thing about webbing is it sages just enough to make the top of the springs just a little flatter. That's important if it takes a cushion.

[MinUph]

Kody the flatness your speaking about can be done with the twines.

[SteveA]

The base slats are solid and original.  There are no tack holes in the chair's underside.  The springs are 4 inches - I'm thinking of going to 5 inches.
The slats look amateurish but original and just rough timbers.  There is a seat and back cushion.  The covers are good - I'll change the foam - the firmest foam the supply house sells is 65 - ........ 45 is next .  There are 9 springs. 

Thanks for continued help -
Are 5 inch springs OK  ? - they  would need a 2 inch compression to make a perfectly flat deck.  I think the 4 inch are under sized.
Is 65 foam too firm ?

SA

[Darren Henry]

Is 65 foam too firm ?

I'd say that is up to your customer. Being the size of an ant dropping and liking a softer seat it would be too firm for me. If I were 300 lb and/or liked a firmer seat, it could be perfect. I have 1 sq. ft. samples of foam from my one supplier to show people. Any chance your supply house could provide you with those to help them decide?

[MinUph]

The base slats are solid and original.  There are no tack holes in the chair's underside.  The springs are 4 inches - I'm thinking of going to 5 inches.
The slats look amateurish but original and just rough timbers.  There is a seat and back cushion.  The covers are good - I'll change the foam - the firmest foam the supply house sells is 65 - ........ 45 is next .  There are 9 springs. 

Thanks for continued help -
Are 5 inch springs OK  ? - they  would need a 2 inch compression to make a perfectly flat deck.  I think the 4 inch are under sized.
Is 65 foam too firm ?

SA

  The rough timber is normal for the chair. Just check it is still firmly attached. Add a couple of screws each end to be sure if you're concerned.

  I wouldn't use the firmest foam you can get. What I would do is go with the original springs unless they are copper in color or bent. Add a layer of rubberized hair pad over the burlap and then medium to medium/firm foam over that and then cotton topper. If you have loose hair that would be better yet but does require more work. Oh and don't forget to fasten the springs to the base.
 

[baileyuph]

So, if I am catching on, the deck or base the bottom cushion rest on is springs tied to the board slats and perhaps covered and padded?

BTW, those frame look very nice and stronger than anything.

If the springs are usable, without seeing/feeling I believe I would go with them and do the 8-way tie job.  Then, pad them the general way suggested by Paul.

Then, I presume since bottom cushion is portable, the deck (would get upholstered perhaps with rubber hair and a small roll edge at least across front.

Is this generally what you are working with?

How was the backrest and backrest cushion done originally?

As stated the frame is amazing, what type of wood is that?

You said this is a customer job?  If so what are their specs for the job?

Interesting project.....

Doyle

[SteveA]

Thanks for the help as always.  Using all the suggestions here ....
It's a customers chair but they are leaving it up to me.  I had to turn and replace one spindle. Replace the board at the bottom of the adjustable back rest where the hinges attach - fix the springs and re-stuff the cushion covers.  The springs that exist are 4 inches but seem to soft.  I think they may not have been seat springs ?  I'll change them for new 4 inch seat springs.  Re-enforce the wood platform that the springs anchor to.  Re-tie the springs, add burlap, w/rubberized hair, edge roll,,  and a muslin covering.  45 seat cushion w/wrap and softer back rest cushion.  The chair is oak - quartered - and from the 1900's.  Antique recliner - still kicking - made to outlast its owners.

SA

[baileyuph]

A point:  a flat base spring requirement (as I understand) would be expected to have a perimeter wire around the spring base.  This chair, being old may have had a supporting wire originally and somewhere got modified.

Given a spring wire would certainly stabilize that base, be much more durable (needs it - look at the springs in disarray).  A perimeter wire would more effectively support a small fox edge around the perimeter.

Another point, what ever rebuild approach taken, be mindful of the final height buildup of that seat bottom.  About 17 or 18 inches has been the standard for a number of years.

There are some upholster's on Carr's site who have specialized more in this type of issue, do you frequent that site?  I think your question would draw attention there as well as here.

Applaud your effort.

Doyle

[SteveA]

One new cleat - reinforce other cleats and corner blocks, new plywood bottom, one new spring and used the existing 4 inch springs that were OK once they got untangled. One new side spindle stained + installed - coming along -

[gene]

Very nice job. I have a feel for the hours that went into that. It'll be a great seat when you're done.

gene

[SteveA]

Tying those springs is a pain but satisfying when completed.  Worth the trouble.  The casing were old but new foam w/wrap.  The original cushions under two different fabrics were 4 inch thick horsehair - never saw it so dense and compacted.  It was like sitting on a rock.