sewing sunbrella

[lizzieb]

I am making cushions from umbrella and am having a terrible time with puckering. I am using a size 18 needle and a Juki 1541s machine. Any ideas or suggestion? Thanks.

[brmax]

Hi lizzieb, have you tried a 19 needle before a bunch of tension adjustments.
I have found it is a quick way for me on tough tension related issues I am  working with.
Back on track though is this just around corners or just along straights and another ? are you using cording because I am just thinking on the amount of material and tension rather than slipping.
Good luck with it today

[chrisberry12]

Try sewing the fabric upside down, cushion top on top of welt and just lay them together, no stretch at all, . If you stretch either fabric it will react like elastic, and take your time.

Chris

[lizzieb]

I am not using any welting. I will try with a larger needle. Thanks for the input.

[Tejas]

Here are a few links on pucker mitigation.

http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Minimizing-Seam-Puckering-2-5-10.pdf

http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/seam-puckering

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCMQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amann.com%2Ffileadmin%2Fdownload%2Fnaehfaden%2Fb_nahtkraeuseln_EN.pdf&ei=CCgpVcvxNcPSsAXWsYCgDA&usg=AFQjCNGe3qnyYZVuNHJiKuOf6ndJPMtJSA&bvm=bv.90491159,d.b2w

[bobbin]

Loosen the tension on the threads!

Step1.)  begin with a single layer of the fabric you most use.  Start with a 24" square block. 
Step 2.)  do a test run with the present settings on your machine. 
Step 3.)  back way off on the needle tension and do a test run.  (it will suck totally!) Gradually tighten the needle tension until you have a decent result on the needle thread.  Next:  address the bobbin tension.
Step 4.)  gradually (!) tweak the bobbin tension until you get a stitch that is balanced top to bottom and delivers minimal puckering on the bias. 

I've been sewing for close to 40 yrs. now and I'm amazed at how  freaked out people are when it comes to screwing around with needle and bobbin tension adjustments.  The world is not going to come to an end if you screw around with them; and  you might just learn something!  Go for it.

But don't "go for it" when you're under the gun, freaked out, and already convinced that you can't do it.  Eliminate the "pressure" and you'll be more easily able to "figure it out", and it will make sense. 

[MinUph]

I completely agree with Bobbin, I have two seamstresses working and both seem to think one tension is the answer for everything and it seems less tension is not a choice. I sometimes look at one of the machines and the top tension is screwed in so far it is like a lug nut on a car LOL. I have found that both top and bottom tensions need to be adjusted depending on fabric type. While a thin cotton to a medium weight fabric might get away with the same tensioning you can put something like acrylic under the needle and the tensions won't work. Don't be afraid to experiment with them. Looser is usually better as long as they balance and sew well. Think of it like hand sewing where you don't use a lot of pull (tension) to make a good seam.

[bobbin]

You're using a size 18 needle.  What weight thread are you using?  Unless I'm topstitching I use the same weight thread for the bobbin and the needle.  It's easier to properly adjust tension when using the same weight thread top and bottom.  As I said, I prefer to check tension settings while working on the bias of the goods.  It's really important to do that because all seams must have the ability to "stretch" a bit or the threads will snap.  If you start the adjustment on the bias and achieve a flat seam you automatically know that there will be adequate "give" on the straight grains of the fabric. 

When I have to topstitch I always check the tension before I begin the work.  Most of my topstitching involves vinyls and I favor 138 thread, using the smallest needle I can, thereby minimizing the hole size and subsequent leakage (important in marine work). 

[baileyuph]

Since Sunbrella is a brand of fabric and their fabrics vary considerably, some of their fabrics are designed for marine, while considerable is for indoor (let's just say for furniture and window decorations).  

This range of sewing requirement is or can be pretty big due to the possible fabrics made by Sunbrella.

Which leads to the question after project is acessed what is the best machine needed to do the job?  Too big of a machine possibly could lead to problems associated to puckering and too big of thread, a problem as well.

This is brought up becasue a lot of my COM customers can bring in the most attractive fabrics but are so thin they are tough to sew on a standard walking foot.

It has gotten to the point that a light weight walker machine might be an answer to part of the problem in dealing with the thinner fabrics but then there is the fabric ravel problem (dealing with this problem - not sure which is best).  My immediate judgement questions if the project will last long after completed?

The heavier fabrics, example for marine applications are not exceptions - another discussion.

Always something..........huh?

Doyle

[Dede]

...have you tried a 19 needle before a bunch of tension adjustments.

Showing my ignorance here... I didn't know there was a 19 needle, for example:  18 --> 20 (then 22).  All even numbers.  There's a 19?  My mind is blown...

[sofadoc]

Yeah, they got 'em.

[bobbin]

18/19? I don't think there's a helluva lotta difference, frankly.  And before anyone wants to get into it, how about we discuss, "ball point, wedge point, and basic round point" with respect to needles?

18/19? basically the same damn thing... the "size" depends on who make needles. If you want 20 and a 21 is in stock, BUY IT!