Wood repair related question

[baileyuph]

We have discussed in a very informative manner about making chair rung repairs, but can't remember about the drill bit to use.

Got some more in the shop where the chair rung tore loose out of both the front and rear leg.  One attempt to repair will be to salvage the rung (very old chair and they are highly detailed) with the idea of drilling both ends of the rung and inserting a dowel into the fixture and reinstalling in the legs (which have to be drilled also). 

The preferred drill bit to use for the drilling, of the choices ; spade bit, forestner bid, brad point bit, standard twist bit, which have you had or think will work the best for this type of repair. 

As most here know, things have to pretty accurate in this area, particularly the drilling.

These chairs are perhaps around 80 or so years old, solid ornate rungs and repairing the "ends" will go aong way to preserving the pieces.

Any other related comments are welcome.

Doyle

[SteveA]

Years ago there was a guy on one of the woodworking sites that came up with this idea and I've been using it since.  He also sold the bits but I grind them myself and you can  as well.  Drill a tapered hole in the end of the spindle and make an opposing shape with a new dowel to fit into the hole and extend the spindle.  A regular drilled hole leaves weak walls on the edges.


SA

[byhammerandhand]

The preferred drill bit to use for the drilling, of the choices ;
spade bit, > ]Too coarse IMO
forestner bid, - I have read that these need to be used in a drill press, which I usually do
brad point bit, -- good, tends to follow straight
standard twist bit - better in smaller diameters

I normally drill a small diameter lead hole in the center with a twist bit, then used that as a guide for a brad point with the point in that pilot hole.  Aim for 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the spindle as your dowel/hole diameter.  If the holes are a little sloppy, use an epoxy that will fill the gaps.

I have a Shopsmith that excels in horizontal boring.   I can set up the table and the lathe center to hold the spindle in position and get a pretty good centered hole.   A V-cradle also helps   If the leg is splayed, try to drill in position so you can get the hole in it parallel to the stretcher.   I usually have to eye-ball this.


A friend just dropped off some chairs to be re-glued.  They got them at a rummage sale and the prior owner had run drywall screws through the seats in an attempt to stiffen them.  Ugh.

[SteveA]

Sorry my photo wasn't clear.  A tapered spade bit works very well - I've done it over 30 times all with perfect results.
I also use epoxy to fasten the mating piece into the taper.
I found a web site that shows a better picture then mine for better clarity.  Once you drill the tapered hole in the end of the spindle - you fashion a matching taper to insert from a larger size dowel.  You make a cone shape to fit into the hole you drilled.  It works great - I'm sure you will understand if you do a test on another piece before you go to the subject spindle.

SA

http://greenlee-media.precis5.com/454cecc4829279e64d624cd8a8c9ddf1

[MinUph]

I've found a twist bit will travel with the grain in hard woods and not drill truly straight. Spade bits do not tend to travel like that. I drill a small pilot hole with a small spade bit and follow up with the final size spade. The pilot hole must be small enough to allow the tip of the larger spade to follow as a guide. I've never needed epoxy as a filler. Doesn't seem right to use epoxy in this manner.

[baileyuph]

Thanks a large amount for the comments.  Comments here and there go a long way of enhancing a person's skills related to whatever we do.  Very interesting and definitely valuable input.

The part on the Shop Smith is on target in more ways than one.  As expressed before, I have a Shop Smith and the V- Block.  They are very helpful.  That and reducing the resistance in drilling will smooth drilling and improve accuracy. 

My chairs are going into work soon.

Doyle

[SteveA]

Epoxy in this application is used for its incredible strength - not for filling properties.  The joint must be shaped correctly so it fits tight without needing a filler.  I'll keep looking for that site on line which shows this process in detail
SA

[baileyuph]

Excellent Steve, this repair like most needs all the help it can get.  Chairs/wood is old.

I am also rereading about the tapered hole and opposing dowel.  I reread it and will again as I might not be in adequate clarity on that one.  I think I picked up on the advantage of the tapered spade bit giving a cutting advantage opposed to a standard
spade bit.  I went to the green site.

Doyle

[baileyuph]

Update,

Pulled the rung repairs off and am very satisfied.  The brad bits worked fine.

The Shop Smith was set up and rung was placed in line and the drilling came out without a hitch.  

I better be careful, the luck must be about to change, never had this much go right before.  LOL.

The customer is very happy, I can barely tell where the rungs were broke off at the leg but the touch up makes it hard to detect.  Besides who is going to be looking for such?

I guess, without a horizontal boring equipment, one could free hand the drilling, but they would have to be good or lucky or both for things to come out this nice.

I am going to hang up a wood shop sign.  Get rid of the upholstery sign.  Wink.

No, diversification is best!  Not sure about this new Asian wood, however.  Fooled around with some of it, it crumbles........sets the stage for a bad performance.

Doyle

[byhammerandhand]

Atta boy, Doyle.   All's well that ends well.


If anyone is looking for a good how-to book on this subject, I highly recommend http://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Refinishing-Ultimate-Creative-Homeowner/dp/1580110061/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1413823550&sr=1-1&keywords=furniture+repair

[baileyuph]

Oh..........yeah!  I love books, especially on my activities. 

I do like what I do, had a customer today ask me how long it took to learn what I do..........?  I had to be honest, my response was "I will let you know"  -- still learning.

Things change it is only logical that we can never know it all.

But, wood, is same as upholstery, the more accuate you do your job the better it gets.

Plus enjoying wood more, I am also enjoying the tools more.  It all is rewarding the doing and the learning.

Thanks all,

Doyle