Lift the dot hand punch or $350 hand pliars tool

[Old sailmaker]

I spent a bunch of money on this new to me tool only to now become very dissapointed in it as far as accuracy goes. Maybe im doing something wrong but being off just a little with ltds makes the whole joblook crappy. With existing studs already in place i use a hole punch to get a nice fit, then come back and cut the holes for the female part. After several jobs now and putting sharpie lines on that tool for centering etc, i think i am just going to go back to the hand punch where i can get it perfect every time. What sayeth the board?

[PDQ]

Turn the hand pliers upside down so you can see the mark on the cloth.

[bobbin]

I never did installations of canvas (at least not very much).  But having done a lot of repair work that involved removing hardware, fixing the torn site, and then replacing the hardware I can say that I always thought LTDs were tricky!  I used to make a big cross that bisected the original opening so I could get the placement right when re-installing the female portion.  I used the same technique for common sense fasteners.  

Personally, I find a lot of the squeeze hand tools very difficult to use.  I find they're not sized for women's hands and the open setting is frequently too wide for me to get a nice grip and be able to squeeze enough to punch through the fabric.  

Takes longer, but I prefer a mallet and hand tools.  

[Grebo]

I agree with bobbin on the 'not' ease of use, but find the hand tool thingy much easier than punch & hammer, having done that for a few years I wouldn't go back to it. So many times having to take the canvas on & off when there wasn't anywhere sensible to bash the mallet.


Suzi

[bobbin]

Great point from Grebo.  As I said, I never had to deal with "field" installations very much, so I was able to opt for mallet and hand tools. 

[Mike]

what I do with the lift the dot tool and the similar common sence turnbutton cutter is first standing alons side the enclosure panel as on the sidewalk  while fitting a bridge enclosure fit he cutter over the fastner on the boat then pull the canvas down into place and squeeze   cutting the right spot. if you cant do that tale a crayon or white greese pencil and make a mark on the fastner work on snap studs also then pull the canvas tight into place and press trasnfering the mark onto the canvas where you want it  then you can see the mark through  the hole in the bottom of the cutter to be dead on spot when cutting .

when I cant reach from outside I  zipp the panels on  and reach out under and pull the canvas down pressing it in place on the mark then pull the canvas window in and easily cut and install the fastner 

[Old sailmaker]

Thanx for the tips guys, never thought about turning it upside down. 32 alby i just fishished was perfect with my punched holes , then kinda screwed it up a little when i used the tool. Not the first time. I pulled the front curtains off and took them to the mallet and they ended up perfect. Thanks again guys, all hope is not lost, lol.

[Mike]

Oh i dont use a mallet either after i punch the hole i insert the gromett into the 4 prong holes then pit the washer on and i bend the over shile holding it with a small flat bar. Somtimes a pait of pliers are needed on occasion but i can install them inplace while still zipped one vrammet at a time to see how it looks As i go.

[Old sailmaker]

Gotcha Mike, i just use the mallet to punch the hole as well

[Darren Henry]

Suzi and mike got here first  :) I bought mine while I was still working for a guy who insisted the hand punch was all we needed (they're over $90 BTW) so we're only talking a few hours of shop rate difference. If you don't have to keep pulling the panel down/add a grommet or two/reinstall....they pay for them selves in short order.

Like Mike; I too try to set the tool over the turnbuckle and punch. If I can't, I use the 4 prongs that cut the slits as cross hairs to lay on centre. I line the top pin up with my mark * and my left thumbnail with the mark. then I slide the tool in until the left pin is in line with my thumbnail, check bottom and right for square and squeeze.

*I make my mark the entire length of the turnbuckle to ensure that I have my orientation correct. ;)

BTW; If you ever snap one of those roll pins that hold it together [say maybe you had the handle on the cutting table and were using both hands and your body weight to cut more than you should---don't ask], take it to a shoemaker or even a cobbler for repair. The shaft from a dowel lift, as used in high heels, is the correct diameter and unbreakable.

[Mike]

[
Like Mike; I too try to set the tool over the turnbuckle and punch. If I can't, I use the 4 prongs that cut the slits as cross hairs to lay on centre. I line the top pin up with my mark * and my left thumbnail with the mark. then I slide the tool in until the left pin is in line with my thumbnail, check bottom and right for square and squeeze.

*I make my mark the entire length of the turnbuckle to ensure that I have my orientation correct. ;)[/quote]

next time darren try my way of marking the turnbutton of lift the dot and by runbing transfer the mark to the backdide of the canvas then from the backside holding the pund also in reverse you can see the mark in the center of the hole punsh backwards  


quote author=Darren Henry link=topic=13147.msg106683#msg106683 date=1405118901]
quote author=Darren Henry link=topic=13147.msg106683#msg106683 date=1405118901]


BTW; If you ever snap one of those roll pins that hold it together [say maybe you had the handle on the cutting table and were using both hands and your body weight to cut more than you should---don't ask], take it to a shoemaker or even a cobbler for repair. The shaft from a dowel lift, as used in high heels, is the correct diameter and unbreakable. [/quote]  Never. Broke a promg but know what you mean cutting to much. Usualy rite at a seam top stitched ot flatfell whatever. Ever got it stuck squeezed with it all stuck in the tool. Lol