Battle of the bulge - boat seat listing

[JuneC]

Just finished a Chris Craft aft seat back and every seam (4 of them) had a listing.  One of the main listings across the top has contrast welt.  Of course, this seam crosses two rather large vent holes in the board so as the listing crosses those holes, it can't be pulled down tightly, leaving a bulge in the vinyl surface.  The contrast welting just accentuates the "defect".  I was wondering why the factory welt (Taylor Made) was so wavy.  This isn't the first boat seat to have this issue.  Lots of Formula seats do the same thing.  Even a 1" vent hole can cause the seam to look uneven, depending on the location. 

So has anyone found a solution to this?  I'm almost tempted to put in some sort of bridge across the gap so I have something to staple to. 

June

[MinUph]

How about sewing a metal rod into the listing. Something like edge wire across the bottom where it attaches to the seat base. This is done in automotive and should last a good long time.

[bobbin]

Dumb question:  is the "listing" the same thing as a "draw strip"?

[Mike]

yes bobbin , june ive not run into this issue but I was thinking along the lines of paulit would be a pia but maybe sew a pocket in the listing ant the right spot and depth  with a rod inserted to bridge the hole and staple or screw on each side

[JuneC]

I hadn't thought of sewing something in.  It could certainly even out the pull across the void.  At first, I was thinking you'd have to sew in a "stay" at exactly the correct depth, but honestly, the depth could be anywhere in the listing to work.  It's an ingenious idea  :).  As long as the length was enough to span the gap plus a few inches on either side (and the seam was straight enough), it would work.  For smaller curves, you'd have to bend the rod, but even that might make it better.  I just hate looking at the face of the piece, seeing these loose bubbles and knowing that I cannot do anything about it.

June

[fragged8]

thats pretty much what the auto trimmers do. auto seats have lots of rods etc.
the other way is what Sid chavers calls liquid listings .. he glues down a strip of the cover to the foam where it needs it.

[Darren Henry]

I was thinking along the same lines as Paul---but my knee jerk reaction would be to sew the edgewire into the salvage at the top of the listing,just below the welt cord.

[MinUph]

I was thinking along the same lines as Paul---but my knee jerk reaction would be to sew the edgewire into the salvage at the top of the listing,just below the welt cord.

You would probably feel that.

[Mike]

Thats even better idea june it could be halfway down the listing as long as its longer then the hole.

Thats was cool here one indea get improved on.

[Eric]

You could slit the listing in 2 spots at the hole. Pull that piece into the hole and staple to the hole or pull through and staple to bottom of board. Especially if stapling a piece of material to bottom of board.
Eric

[JuneC]

I think sewing a skinny pocket half-way down the listing or close to the bottom would work best.  The rod/wire would maintain tension across the gap.  Close to the top would be felt for sure, Darren.  Eric, your solution would probably work if the hole was small enough or if the listing staple line was close to one of the edges.  In this particular case, the holes were about 4 inches square with the listing across the center.  If you pulled the listing through the hole and stapled, regardless of where you stapled, you'd definitely cause a wiggle in the welting. 

June

[Mojo]

I have done motorcycle seats using the pocket and wire method and they came out great. :)

Chris