Wood on a chair frame issue

[baileyuph]

The chair is an antique walnut piece.  Framing is exposed and very beautiful walnut.  There is an issue with the side frame member where it it is doubled dowelled into the leg and arm post, in that while it is strong, the side frame exhibits where a crack was and the panel and the previous gluing did not repair it by pressing the split back in a plane.  Not level a little bit in this area.

With that hopefully the question of what to do at this point is presented:

     Best to leave alone, by planing, sanding and refinishing would make the problem area look more like new wood, patina would be lost.  Don't want to do that. 

I suppose the other question is, can this level difference in the cracked board be address with a chisel and walnut filler to be made to look decent, not perfect but pretty nice?

Doyle

[MinUph]

Doyle,
 I know you say this is still a strong joint. But can you open it and clean out the old glue? If you can and get it clean enough to clamp together properly then the problem is solved. Just use a good titebond glue. Need to get all old glue off without removing any wood at the exposed edge. I use knives to remove old glue never sand paper. If this isn't possible there is really no way to chisel or sand without removing patina. If the repair can't be done properly then leave it alone.

[byhammerandhand]

This falls into the "prior repairs done poorly are more difficult than fixing the original problem" file.

Walnut is a wood that gets lighter when exposed.  So if you chisel/scrape/sand/plane away the excess it will be darker.  The other file is "you can always add dark, but there's no such thing as a dark eraser"

Any idea what type of glue is on there?    Most glues can be undone with water and/or heat.  If you can get the joint open, you might be able to clean it out enough to re-glue it right this time.

[baileyuph]

Keith the glu is Elmer or a similar.

The joint is strong, problem is it was repaired before, but some reason it caused deformation in the side board (which is the exposed frame on the side of the chair).

This is an old beautiful piece, but the deformation was likely caused by stress on an already loose joint.  The side board was cracked and the repair left it unlevel a bit.

I might just go with Paul's advice, like I said, joint is strong.  So strong that if I broke the joint and drilled dowels, wouldn't I get into destroying patina with effort to clamp the board flat again?

Clamping the board flat, bring the total surface into one plane could be tried without breaking the dowel joint.  The problem with that is it wouldn't really fix the scar, unless cosmetics were appied.

My thinking. 

Maybe it should be left alone.

Doyle

[kodydog]

Sounds like the issue is not on a part of the frame where it will stick out like sore thumb.

What did you tell the customer when you picked the chair up? Generally I'll tell them I can touch up the dings and scratches but if they want it to look like new (and antiques shouldn't) they need to take it to a refinisher. I've got a great relationship with a refinisher in town. I send him work and he sends me work.

On cracks like that, where your not taking the frame apart, sometimes I'll use a little crayon filler and a light coat of clear lacquer. Then stand back and its barely noticeable.

[SteveA]

Can you post a few photos ?
SA

[baileyuph]

Quick comment regarding the old crack.  Essentially, I left it alone, once I took it off the saw horses, it didn't look too obvious because it down low.

The only thing I did was insure the area was level finish wise, to accomplish that Kody's idea of lacquer was used but after testing tung oil matched pretty well.

Customer was pleased, so I used all your advice and it work!

Doyle