Top Stitching channel pleats into vinyl backed with sew foam

[baileyuph]

This one I have done several ways and they all seemed (or seamed) to work.  LOL

Like said, done it different ways and like to hear your preference and it could make interesting reading for all.

Do you cut the vinyl and foam to same dimension?  If not what is the consideration?   This question raises the question do you gather the foam about the same amount as the vinyl?  We all agree that stitching the channels gathers the vinyl and can the foam but how much depends on the upholsters technique of attaching the two materials?

Is your sewing process started by stitching the vinyl to the scrim (sew foam) around the four sides?

Or do you start in the center (top stitch down the center) and work a channel out to both sides from that center seam (to keep materials symmetric and variances to a minimum?)

Another technique is to cut the vinyl, cut the foam and then temporarily staple the vinyl to the scrim?  If so, what is your sequence that follows for top stitching the channels and how do you start, on side, middle channel seam, or?

Some glue foam to vinyl and sew. 

There are a lot of ways to empty the boot!  What is your preferred way?  If it depends on the type of work, just clarify, for example simply say for marine or what ever type of work, I do this and for another product, I will do it another way and describe that way.

This isn't as straight forward as one might think, because the type of machine and the scale of the requirement should enter the picture.  A long arm lends itself to large scale channels and most likely drives the technique, but it is doable on a standard bed, If done your way (rolling and stitching), talk about your method on the standard bed.

 

Maybe last but not least, marking the sew line, how do you mark the line?

Glad I ask, after all this may not turn out as trivial as one assumes.

Doyle

[Mike]

top stitching
ever see the embossed pleats with a fake stitch ?   either waay I lik eto glue my vinyl to sewfoam then id mark even line on the back and sew along the line leaving a stitch showing in and out.
if you didn't meen like that  . tuck and roll then ive cut each pleat and sewn face tgo face after glue vinyl to foam and cutting strips  better ill sew the top sitch like before then fold the vinyl and foam and sew ad if it was cut strips the top sewn first aid in folding tight   

[MinUph]

What I do is glue 1/2" foam to an underlayment fabric like decking that I have drawn lines on. I then slice the foam on the lines down to the denim. Then fold and sew the top fabric to these lines. Starting from the right and working left.

[Alsworld]

Doyle,

I am just getting started in this business and currently don't have a walking foot machine, so please take this with a grain of salt.  However, this is working for my applications.

I sew with a Bernina 217 and typically sew Cordura 1000D as the outer materials with 1/4" sew foam sandwiched in between.  For me, I cut the foam to the shape I need, then glue using Weldwood HHR, first to one piece, then spray and glue to the other.  After getting a good smooth adhesion to both, I trace around the foam edges with my hands then fingernail to get my shape.  I then cut the pattern I want leaving anywhere from a 1/4"-1/2" of excess material glued together beyond the foam.  I hope that makes sense.  I plan this excess because for me without a walking presser foot, it makes it easier for me to sew.  When final assembly comes, the Bernina has an adjustable needle (left and right) which allows me to sew very close to the foam edge leaving a pretty neat appearance that looks like I have sewn through the foam yet leaves less bulk around the inner edges.


If I need to sew lines into it, when it's glued inside of two pieces of material, I get zero slip and find I can start from any edge without any binding or causing tucks where I don't want them.  Sometimes I will mark lines with a temporary (erasable) marker prior to sewing if it will be a highly visible area that must have a good appearance, other times I don't if it's not required.


My machine will not sew vinyl very well so I don't have any experience trying this method with it.  Also, for my application as described above, I do sandwich the foam between material and have not tried this with only one layer of material sewing to the scrimp backing of the foam and see if that changes my outcome (like sew foam is designed to do). I've got a house full of people this weekend but if I have a chance I may try this and what happens.  I realize what I am doing by using two layers of outer material is not applicable to what many people on here would do (especially with boat seats and such, too much weight, wasted material and $$$ for sure), but thought I would throw out some input in case someone might be considering something similar. For my projects, doubled material is what I need.


Alan

[Mojo]

I have done them like Mike. Glue and then sew from the middle out.

Chris

[baileyuph]

Alan your method is probably mainly driven by machine limitation, but I must compliment by saying that is one of the best engineering concepts for creating pleats,  particularly in auto seating, it delivers with precision sewn pieces. 

Mercedes has used the technique for years and in my experience it is quite effective, looks sophisticated, and excells in precision.

What I mean by precision, well maybe I can explain by example.  When I stop stitch through vinyle onto sew foam, there is a gathering effect.  Which normally will lead to stretch in a varying degree when installing the cover, because the scale of the sewn pleat and foam is reduced, often the case in automotive applications.
 
By by cutting strips of foam and sewing in the channels (but not through the foam), this is avoided.  The finished work will look like the pleat intended (no flattening).  Like I said, just like a Mercedes interior.

I am impressed with two things Alan, your understanding of how to get the job done with limited machine capability and the precision of your output.  No stretching of the product during installation that flattens the pleats.  The product should be more durable, I know it is very durable in the case of Mercedes.

Paul mentioned he likes this technique also. 

Those German engineers and craftsmen never cease to amaze me.  Of course there are others who are good.  This business is about learning and no matter how many years of experience, I still haven't learned how to do it all.  Never will, the technology continues to evolved into new concepts offering craftsmen plenty of new things to understand and learn.

Thanks Alan for that presentation, great example of understanding the problem and perseverance.  Your getting it done on a Bernina!

Doyle

[baileyuph]

Input to this subject is very informative, neat group of craftsmen here.

Now, a different exercise is proposed:

Let me propose a project that requires pleats but not in vertical line form.

The pleats required are six, three on each side of the back rest of a kitchen chair.  Three pleats start out at bottom and move upward in parallel, then curve toward the right shoulder and the other 3 pleats curve toward the opposite shoulder, left shoulder. The six pleats, start at the bottom of the backrest and at about half way up, three on one side sweep toward the right shoulder and the other three also sweep to the left shoulder in a mirrow fashion.  The net effect is sort of like a shell fanning out at the top.


Another detail about the pleats, as they  fan toward their respecive shoulder, the spacing systematically increases.  So in review, the six pleats start at the bottom evenly spaced and remain in that parallel fashion until they go about half way up then the three on the right sweep toward the right shoulder with a gradual increase in spacing.  The same for the three on the left.  The overall effect is a shell back.

This design is to be top stitched, stitches will show.

Anyone want to explain how this could be pulled off to keep the pleats the same dimension on the right and left?  Symmetrical about a center line?

I know a bit wordy, but just trying to insure clarification of issue.

Also, please note, that the stitching has to be duplicated on additional chairs to a set, four in this case.  Actually, that is the impetus, how to arrive at a pattern, one that can be traced to subsequent chair patterns.  Some may say just chalk it to the next pattern to do but a good pattern medium to allow this is somewhat elusive for me.  If the initial pattern were on stable material and perforations were punched on the template, chalking along the perforated lines would leave enough marking.  Therefore, looking for ideas, a better or more efficient way.

How would you proceed in a project like this?  Hope some have already done this.

Any input, talk about it?

Doyle