Flattening leather seat covers (old) to use as pattern

[RocketmanMH1]

Hey guys I have a set of 92 mustang seats to recover and they are made of real leather. I need to flatten these out so I can make a speedy pattern, I do mostly boats and have never tried to work with old leather. The covers are in good shape but they are very firm from age and are pleated so to speak. I would like for some of you car guys to chime in on this, maybe even give a little tutorial on how most of you do this.

I have no problem making patterns for most boat seats but these car seats are quite a different animal.  Thanks for any help you guys can give.     Mike

[kodydog]

Don't know about car seats but on furniture some steam helps a little. Maybe even water bottle spray it first.

[RocketmanMH1]

Thats how i do my old boat seat covers with a spray bottle and an iron, I test a small piece first and start with  a low heat and work my way up to the most efficient temp and most of the time dont get any shrinkage.  I tried that with the leather and it drew up like a raisin. Ha Ha ::)

Thanks for the suggestion Kody

[limey]

I would put the old covers to one side, and work on the foam foundations. Steam the foam as best you can to revive it. I am not familiar with 92 mustang seats but I am going to assume they are "mirror images" driver and passenger. Using the passenger seat as a guide(least used seat) measure between listing troughs to establish width of pleats (again, I assume center pleats) round off dimensions to give you a sensible width for pleats, i.e. if you have 12'' and six pleats- 2" pleats, FINISHED. Using the passenger side INNER bolsters, cushion and backrest, again least used, make patterns from light clear window scraps, allowing 1/2" selvage.
You can now if you wish, remove the various leather panels from, again, the passenger seat cover and soak them in warm , not hot water. Avoid steam, there is a point where leather will go from pliable to rhino hide if you are not super careful. lay out the leather panels over the foam pads and make a judgement as to how much they have shrunk, match them to your templates, how do they look? Go back to your seat frames. take as many dimensions from passenger seat as you feel you need,  transfer then to driver seat, are they the same? Are you replicating the seats in leather? Remember to pay close attention to where you should cut panels from, don't forget belly stretch etc(are you still awake?) I could go on but rather, let me know if this is helpful and I can continue. Best of luck

[RocketmanMH1]

Thanks  Limey , please continue youre talking my language

[Peppy]

I'm with limey, make a new pattern. One difference, I pattern always to finished size and add the allowance at the table. I find this lets me see whats going on better than trying to 'see through' the 1/2" allowance as I'm patterning.

[RocketmanMH1]

Thanks peppy, Patterning isn't my favorite thing to do I wish one of you guys would do a tutorial with step by step inst.   I know its time consuming and like most of us in the trade , theres not enough time in the day anyway, but it sure would save me some time on some jobs if I were more skilled in that area.  I think it would probably be a boost to my confidence as well.

Thanks again, Mike

[limey]

And on I go. Are you replicating in leather? If you are, you will need templates of all panels required to cut out ONE backrest and cushion. I will mark either side of templates P and D, you can then reverse the template to come up with two matching covers. Can't tell you how many times I have cut one too many of  the SAME panel, especially when under the gun.
How familiar are you with leather? are the seats frenched or have welting? Again, I am only familiar with older euro interiors.  In order to continue, it would be nice to know the following; If in leather are you going to do just faces? that is matching vinyl backs to the backrest and cushion skirt, a la most new leather interiors, are you doing tucked pleats or sewing directly into leather (I believe I have seen some of the newer interiors done that way with a heavy thread.) number of finished pleats, a photo maybe?  Do you plan to use scrim backing? I would, a good post on board about scrim going on now, I prefer a full 1/4 " brush nylon headliner " second" with a very light muslin LIGHTLY glued to the foam side by me, allowing the foam tack to dry until the muslin can be removed from foam if needed. I try to mist glue onto brush nylon face only of scrim, allowing the leather to just hang onto the scrim long enough to sew, and generally I will avoid gluing leather to scrim when possible.  How do the covers attach to to the frames? If you can provide a little more info I would be happy to go on. Cheers. Bill O'

[limey]

I agree with Peppy regarding the selvage, Just DON"T forget to add it to the template, you could even write on your template "plus 1/2" I have been doing this 40 years and still make the odd dummie move. Another note, old leather can take on some remarkable shapes when it has been stretched over a frame for 20 years. If in doubt, knock out a replica in cheap vinyl, it may sound like overkill but you don't want be looking for more leather!

[RocketmanMH1]

Thanks,    no leather this time.  These seats will replicate the original design with vinyl... the brand is enduratex from miami corp.  They will be backed with 1/2 scrim back sew foam.  This vinyl is very  forgiving in one direction but not as much in the other.   There is no cording going back on these, they will be top stitched on each side of the perimeter seams.  If you need any more info just let me know.  Thanks for all the info,  Mike

[RocketmanMH1]

I missed your question about the pleats.  The pleats will be fake pleats,  stitched through the face of the material and sew foam.    Mike

[limey]

Then I think you are ready to begin, best wishes.